cory l

My company was recently bought out by another company, their holding company sent my W2, (It s not the actual company that bought us out) doing my taxes (Both companies sent W2 s, one from my old company [company A] and one from the holding company) should I check that box on my taxes for that W2?

Also that box is for my employment agency s W2 correct?

Song has a chorus of "I'm taking lives instead of saving souls"

Bonus song, starts out with this is for all you pricks out there? (Close to this) just need the names

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2Ozf5

That's my build, 1k budget, I will be overclocking the CPU and this is my first build (No mini cases) going for a decent gaming rig, would you switch anything out? PSU? GPU? Motherboard? if so, why?

Looking to build my own rig, I have nearly everything besides the tower (Case included) just need the parts (motherboard, power supply, graphics card, processor etc. etc.) any suggestions?

My friend recently recorded a ton of video using a Hauppauge(Sp?) HD PVR, he messed with the audio settings right before recording, setting it to "Audio Output" after everything was recorded he's now getting a message saying "Volume Cannot be found" and as soon as he exits out of the error the video crashes, he's using a Mac book pro, and the files are encrypted so he can't post them online, anyway to salvage the video? any way to put "Volume" into the video to have it NOT crash? we would love the video he recorded, it's not able to be re-created and if he deletes it it's lost forever, any ideas?

My friend recorded a ton of video with the hauppauge HD PVR, he's had NO problems until now, he didn't do ANYTHING to the HD PVR however now the video's that he just recorded today is saying "Volume Cannot be found" however he just recorded another video and it plays fine, is there any way to salvage this video? or fix it outright? he messed with a few settings but he doesn't know what he did. he's using a macbook pro for his computer, never had any problems until now.

I was wondering, can you create an HTML code that A. Creates a popup window to one site and B. directs the person to another site via one click? and if so what would be the code?

Example, you click "Click here!" with a hyper link attachment, in your main browser you are sent to Google.com, a pop up creates sending you to Yahoo.com all in one click, is it possible?

and again could I please have the basic code?

Doing a sway bar on a jeep wrangler X, i know its electronically controlled and i know the steps and procedures problem is i forgot how to disable the system, is it 4H for a minute? or is it neutral for a minute? i know there's procedure for it just can't remember what setting it's supposed to be in and i'm pretty sure you have to wait a minute at least with the jeep on for it to disable itself. had the paper around here somewhere just can't find it anymore help?

99 Mustang

Problem is, once in a while (about once a week) when starting the car it will immediately stop attempting to crank for about 1-2 seconds, start cranking up and start right up, and all the gauges will flip from the 0 to full (all the gauges will do this) i have checked the following

Spark

Fuel

Compression

Air filter (New)

Starter voltage (a bit low, but within spec)

tore apart the steering column, everything looked O.K

Battery connections and terminals O.K no corrosion

Checked all the wiring i could, all tight no bad grounds anywhere i can see

No loose wiring

No bad wires

Timing is spot on, chain not worn.

Engine is good, 2 whole cranks no bindings

Computer is good, checked wiring to that as well, its good computer still active

anyone else have this problem and figure it out? it's driving me nuts i've looked just about everywhere i could think of to fix this everything is good and nothing sticks out to me saying "this is the problem" spark plugs are all gapped correctly, i've double checked them now, fuel injectors are firing correctly, i have great spark fuel pressure is almost perfect its 2 lb under average but nothing that signals its wrong, starter is good too the brushes are a bit worn but nothing that won't stand up for another year or so before even getting the idea of changing it its driving me nuts. i think its possible it may be the key FOB as it is the original key FOB from 99, but i'm not entirely sure of the life on the FOB any ideas?

Biostar custom built with vista, only sometimes does it say "Boot Manager Missing" and it won't start any ideas whats wrong? if we can get the "Start window's normally" screen to pop up the computer will start and run perfect, no glitches, no nothing like its supposed to, however whenever we shut it off it may say the "Boot manager missing" again

while i was doing the brakes (pads, rotors and calipers all the way around) i did a quick shake down, front end was fine all nice and tight no problem (think there was a bearing on one side, no problem) now on the rear end this is where i'm not nearly as experienced as i would like to be one side was loose while pulling on it (in and out parallel to the axle) and while rotating the wheels there was a little play before it caught (drive shaft started moving) normal? ok that was the passenger side, now on to the driver side, there was a click both ways before it caught, also the seal is bad (know that) and there is the same small movement parallel to the axle (push and pull) i'm thinking either a bad bearing or the drive shaft is loose generally (based on small bit of knowledge that i do know) either the differential is bad or a C clip is loose? or is this normal? it is NOT the drive shaft! i checked it and everything else is nice and tight checked the u joints as well (all OK) just that small click click click (both ways no matter what way i turn it) worries me any opinions? guesses? its a 99 mustang with the 3.8L 6 cyl straight coupe no gt or cobra sadly. ALSO (i know i'm asking a lot here) if the bearings are bad is it that nasty interference fit with the steel ring? where you have to get a VERY sharp chisel to break it? yes? no? if no what type is it?

quick and easy question here bout ready to dig into brakes on a ford mustang quick question rotors pressed in or does it have a locking spindle with cotter key? or something else? i'm worried bout press in (sometimes cant remove) i'm doing rear and front 99 mustang never dug into one before want to know if goin to b hard or easy bolt in

i just bought this car, as i am shifting through the gears (its the 6 cyl 3.8) it seems to not want to settle into idle it will raise up a bit (running about 2-3k rpm) and slowly go down taking a good 5-6 seconds for it to finally settle down into idle when not being driven (have clutch in, such as i'm stopping) i'm thinking its either an Idle air control or a throttle positioning sensor, any ideas other than those two sensors? i know the grinding is the caliper, brakes need to be done along with rotors other than that the car runs good looks good just trying to get some professional opinions on what this could be thanks for the answers.

Ok, i have a 1994 ranger 2.3. so i've replaced the whole clutch, from the master cylinder down including the line that runs from the master to the slave, i'm still having problems with it but this time it seems to be losing pressure randomly or in spurts whenever i hold the clutch in too long it will simply lose pressure and start to engage, it is also losing fluid out of the line connecting the slave to the master cylinder (where the visible leak is) what could cause this to happen? i want to say it's the reservoir cap that has that pressure bag in it (rubber) that inflates whenever the master cylinder is pushed in to create that nice seal, but i honestly dont see that as a major problem of my issues. wouldn't be so bad but it's losing pressure and getting air in the lines every 3-4 days. which means i have to crawl through the ice and snow to fix it.

i'm getting ready to switch out my breaks on my 2001 chevy lumina and i have one question, will breaking the lines loose or anything that i have to do to the breaks mess with the ABS sensor or any other sensors? if so how do you disconnect them or reset them? i know on older cars it doesn't affect anything but i have no clue on newer cars.

Ok i know my friend will most likely have to have a complete rebuild but its worth a try.

He has a Jeep Wrangler i believe a 97 4 cyl automatic and he's having major trans problems.

when he's shifting into 3rd gear it will slip and you have to let completely off the gas, have the engine almost idling and it will go into 3rd. also if you press too hard on the gas it will slip, and you will have to let it go to almost idling again just to get it to get back into gear.

he just bought it, and the guy said that "it was sitting for about 6 months" we've done all the fluids flushed and changed (oil, transmission etc. etc.), all the filters changed out, thermostat has been replaced, and still it does this.

When i say it's slipping, i mean it completely goes out of gear like you would go into neutral you can rev the engine all you want, but its not going to gain any kind of speed until you bring it down and start again.

I have a Bronco II V6 Carborated (sp?), not fuel injected, we've replaced the battery, both fuel filters, new starter, checked all the vacuum hoses (replaced a few other things) did a complete look over, we can start it up just fine it will idle just fine sounds great, we can drive it to an extent tho, as long as we are accelerating (most of the time) it wont stall, but we hit the clutch and put it into neutral and not more than 2 seconds after that it will chug and stall as its starved for fuel we can start it back up again, but most times its difficult as we have to fight with it, some times it will just chug and stall when we're accelerating (very rarely tho) we're replacing the fuel pump on the side of the block what else could it be? just need good guesses at this point, we cant get the codes read on it since there's no one in our town thats close enough that has the connector.

i found a store that can look up my codes for free, but the catch is without the cigarette lighter working, the codes wont flash for the computer to read it, they said that we have to get that fixed in order for the codes to flash, since they don't know any trick that works (such as on a dodge truck turn the ignition on and off 3 times, without starting it up, and the codes will flash) they know no tricks to a ford, so any ideas on how to get it to work? by the way its a 93 f150 4.9 ltr 6 cylinder

OK, so i have a f150 1993 v6 4.9 liter, #1 it stalls on start up, but once you hit the gas petal its fine, i don't have any money to get a ~$100 code list to fix whats wrong, i have a friend who's been a mechanic for 30+ years, who is at a loss of what it could be, we've fixed the Throttle Positioning Sensor *twice*, New spark plugs fixed it for about 4 weeks, then it started again, also there is a *#2 problem* popping noise every time you hit the breaks, my mechanic thinks its just slipping, which we could believe we do need new breaks in the front soon, but since I'm posting this anyway might as well get some extra opinions, then *#3 problem* as we're going down the road (at start up) for the first say 10 miles per hour we're going it squeaks such as something is going wrong in the front *we believe* but it only squeaks when we're going forward, not in reverse, just looking for ideas that my mechanic could look at, and possibly tell us if this is the problem, like i said i dont have $100 for the codes that might not fix what we're having problems with, oh yeah and if it stalls out completely *for the first problem* if you hit the gas fast enough when it completely stalls out it will come back to life, you have to pump it once or twice but it revs right back up and stops stalling permanently until 6+ hours later *if you dont drive it* say 1/2-1 1/2 seconds later after it stalls if you hit the gas it will start back up just fine. possible clue to what it could be??

I have a f150 1993, we've replaced dang near half the truck already we just got new spark plugs not more than a month ago, that fixed it for a tiny bit, but it continuously does it when it sits for more than... probably 5 hours or so it starts up just fine, revs up a bit then seems to drop too low, starts to sputter and stall, now if you hit the gas petal it will drop right down into the perfect idling position, and you can start it up anytime after that and it will work just fine, also if you put it into gear when its revving up *say reverse* it will do just fine then just sputter and stall on you almost instantly with no warning at all,

also we have duel tanks (ones a bit bigger, only by 2-3 gallons) and the smaller of the two seems to eat up 2x as much gas (we drive 30 minutes to work and back, every 2 days or so it eats up 1/4th of a tank in the front *smaller tank* every 4 days the rear tank eats up 1/4th of a tank... why is that? i know that 2-3 gallon difference doesn't account for the lost gas, and we drive the same route, and no matter how many times we test this it comes out to just about the same, the front tank *smaller* is eating up twice as much *roughly* then the back tank *bigger*