Colter B

I watched a short comedy a few years ago, and I can't remember what it is called.

The premise of the whole sketch is basically that this woman is trying to drive a car and is failing miserably at it.

It was fairly modern filming, but was made to look old, I think. She was dressed in rather dated clothing, the car was a Model T or something of that nature, and it was in black and white.

She ran into this low wall or something because... I think she backed trying to go forward... I don't really remember.

There was a series of other clips of similar style and I remember them as being funny- but I only remember the topic of this one in particular.

Anyone know the name of it?

She has kind of liked the idea of having meat rabbits for a while... hasn't had the chance, though.

I managed to get two, and butchered them to eat. I am in the process of tanning the pelts.

I want to surprise her with something made from one of the pelts for Christmas. I have done some leather working in the past, albeit with hard leather rather than soft.

The question is- what do I make her? I'm not the best leather worker, but I can do a decent job. Mainly this is just an issue of lack of creativity. Looking for ideas...

AR15

-7075T6 forged upper and lower receiver, GRAY ANODIZING

-A2 butt stock

-Flat top upper receiver

-F-marked FSB

-Barrel steel compliant with Mil-B-11595-E

-Chromed bore and chamber

-5.56NATO cut chamber

-Standard size pivot, take down, and FCG pins.

-158 Carpenter steel bolt, HPT, MPI, and shot peened.

-20" Barrel, rifle length gas

I would just build a rifle like I've done in the past... but I want this one to be gray anodized instead of black. I could buy the upper and lower gray anodized from a reputable company... but I can't find a good source of 20" CMV, ORD-4150, or ORD-4150 resulfurized barrels with a F-marked FSB already pinned on.

Any ideas?

I'm an 18yo male, weigh about 175-180lbs and stand 5'11" tall. I have always had excellent health... only been to the doctor a handful of times for antibiotics and such. Never anything serious/recurring.

The only major injury I've ever had was some second degree burns to my face and hands in 2006 from a chemistry experiment gone wrong. Recovered with no known lasting effects.

I am exposed to lead a lot on a regular basis, and blood tests have shown me to have elevated levels of lead in my blood, although not in excess of OSHA requirements... really not significantly over what is considered "normal".

In the past two or three years, I've been having what may be an issue, though. I live in Texas, and it gets quite hot here in the summer... and even if I have gone camping and slept outside in the heat... when I wake up, I am *always* cold. Shivering, even, in 80+ degree weather.

The other thing is I will often sleep long hours... this may just be due to an irregular schedule. I work strange hours sometimes, and get nights where I only have time for a few hours of sleep, and others where I can basically sleep until I can't sleep anymore. A couple days ago, just as an example, I slept almost 12 hours without even stirring. Maybe I was just really tired and needed to catch up on some sleep... maybe I'm growing... I don't know. It just seems odd to me.

One thing is for certain, though, once I get warmed up and moving about I have *plenty* of energy. I have no problem putting in a full day of work doing, even when it involves a lot of physical exertion. Once I wake up, I really only start to feel tired after... 30 hours? I typically go to bed sooner in an effort to stay on a schedule resembling the rest of the world, but I'm not tired when I do.

I'm told it could be my thyroid... But I don't know.

I just can't remember the word. "Chamber" is not what I'm looking for, neither is "barrel extension".

The only words I can think of are "rampart", "parapet", and "embezzlement"... Which are obviously not what I need. Perhaps the word is similar to one of those, though.

This has been bugging me all day... It's a word I knew at one time, but I never use it and can't think of it now.

1. Describe your experiences with condensation inside backpacking tents.

2. What conditions have you found result in the most serve condensation.

3. What steps have you taken in an attempt to resolve condensation within a tent? Have they been effective?

4. What constraints does the consumer place upon a tent design?

5. Approximately how often do you replace a tent?

I live in Texas, and just recently got into hunting. I pay $25 for a hunting license, as a resident, but a non-resident pays $325. (Wowzers!)

I am in my last year of high school right now. This coming summer, I will be living and working in Idaho. After the summer, I will be going to college in Utah, where of course I will be living.

How do I go about being a counted as a "resident" so that I can purchase a hunting license without paying such an insane amount. (I am assuming the fees are similar state-to-state.) I will most definitely be residing in Utah... Do I need to get one of their driver's licenses? Live there for a certain length of time?

Thanks.

It says it is a halogen sealed beam... but that bulbs are not included. ... Isn't the whole thing a big light bulb if it's "sealed beam"? ... I'm not a headlight expert, though.

"SYLVANIA H6024 XTRAVISION HIGH PERFORMANCE HALOGEN SEALED BEAM HEADLIGHT, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- 12.8 volts; 55 watts for low beam and 65 watts for high beam; Dual C-6 filament type; Meets all US FMVSS-108 and Canadian CMVSS-108 requirements; Bulbs not included; Up to 30 percent brighter compared to conventional headlight and up to 25 percent more downroad visibility."

I'm shopping around for a Jeep CJ5. I like the older body style, and they're in my price range.

About 4/5 don't have a title though... I've looked at other vehicles, too, and these older Jeeps have an exceptionally high rate of not having a title.

Why is this? Also, is it a problem, and can it be corrected?

It's a pretty simple question. It's not what firearms you have, or how many, etc. SImply, if every type of ammunition ever made landed in your front lawn this instant, which if it would you be capable of firing, given the firearms you own?

For me...

5.56x45mm NATO/ .223 Remington

7.92x57mm Mauser

9x19mm Parabellum

12 Gauge

.45ACP

7.62x39mm

What about everyone else?

I bought a new pair of boots and I've been wearing them around for about a month. The boot for my right foot is a perfect fit. It's very comfortable.

The problem is with the boot for my left foot. I guess either that boot is made a little too large, or my left foot just isn't as big as my right foot. (Likely, since it's my non-dominant foot.)

My foot kind of slips in the boot as I walk, which has lead to some discomfort. Is there any good way to pad the boot so that it fits better, or should I just live with it?

Which do you prefer and why? Stock configuration for the purposes of this question. No custom guns.

I've got both... And I'd have to say my preference is with Browning's last design, the P35 HiPower.

Posetives-

9x19mm Parabellum (I like the cartridge... It's cheap.)

High Capacity (13 beats 7.)

External extractor. (Because tuning an extractor is lame.)

Field strip. (MUCH easier than a 1911.)

Negatives-

Trigger pull. (Not as good as 1911.)

Magazine Safety (I removed mine... but I said stock, so I have to list it.)

What do y'all have, and what do you like?

I was wondering what the current consensus is on it... Many of you remember my less-than-stellar comments on the features several weeks ago.

We broke one in the store today..... Two weeks old, not a round fired through it, with the barrel changed a couple dozen times.

The coat-hanger-wire wrench that twists the quick-change barrel snapped off... So the barrel can no longer be removed. It really impressed the customer that we were demonstrating it to...

Several of us witnessed the incident.... The employee performing the action had experience with the barrel. It is unanimously agreed he was performing the action correctly, and not using excessive force.

So, now, on top of being horribly heaving, having the ability to install the recoil spring incorrectly due to poor design, and terrible ergonomics.... It is fragile as glass, too.

We got the 2nd one out of the back.... It's so tight, the take-down pins have to be driven out with a punch. Even pressing them with a cartridge tip won't release them.

Are we just unlucky, or are these things as horribly over-rated as I think they are? .... We're selling them well blow MSRP.... But they aren't moving, while regular AR15s are steadily being sold.

It has this guy who is adds music to movies. His girlfriend is an actress in a show called "Crime Scene: The Scene of the Crime". She dumps him. He goes on vacation in Hawaii. She's there. etc.

I saw part of it, and it was funny... But I don't know the name.

Here's the scenario... You've got an intruder in your home at 2am. They kicked in the door, you hear people speaking in a hushed tone, and you don't recognize the voices. You have two shotguns next to your bed. You must pick one...

One is a 5+1, and it has one in the chamber and the safety is off... Condition One... All you have to do is pull the trigger.

The other is 6+1, but doesn't have one in the chamber. You would have the rack the slide to be able to fire it.

You have no extra ammunition, you can't move cartridges from one to the other, and you can only grab one.... Which one is it?

The root of this is would you prefer to use the noise of the shotgun being pumped to intimidate or frighten off the intruders... Or would you prefer a stealthier approach?

My position:

I would pick the one that is 5+1, with one in the chamber.

I am in a defensive scenario... My objective is not to escalate the situation if it isn't necessary. I want to lurk the shadows in silence, observe the situation... Find out who they are, how many of them there are, and what they are after. If I decide it is necessary to use lethal force... I want that to happen swiftly, and without any chance for a reaction from the target. I don't want them to know my location, and I don't want them to know I am armed...

I want to go from total silence, a fly on the wall... Then having the situation fully escalated, with lead in the air. None of this messing around with scary noises.

You might scare them away.... Or you cause them to be ready to fire at a target, and know roughly where you are and that you are armed.

What are your thoughts?

You would think that if we're all these evil people that are just murderous lunatics.... They'd want a gun to defend themselves from us, instead of trying to make them illegal.

I'll just throw it out there, that if guns were banned and confiscated.... Using plumbing parts, a single spent shotgun shell, matches, wood, feces, some lead weights, a nail, and a spring... I could produce a functioning shotgun in about 72 hours. Oh, and an iron file and a torch would be great, but not necessary.

You can take guns away from me... But I'll just make more.

We got two into the shop a few days ago.... My first time to really be able to spend some time taking one apart and getting to know it.

It's just the basic model, since the deluxe one isn't out yet.

I just can't say I'm all that fond of it... Why?

-Lot's of plastic, specifically of critical parts such as the receiver and fire control group. Stocks should be plastic to save weight... Vital parts should be of something more substantial. Anyone who sees my answers knows I'm not a traditionalist by any means... Give me polymer and aluminum. But, polymer on important things... I don't feel we're ready.

The polymer leads to two additional concerns.

-How did they manage to make it so heavy? Good grief. You might as well be carrying an M1 Rifle. With such an extensive use of polymer, shouldn't it be light?

-I thought polymer was supposed to be cheap? At ~$2500... That's not cheap at all.

In addition, I have other complaints...

-Ambidextrous safeties are so uncomfortable. They rub against the index finger of my fire control hand. Very uncomfortable. Make it in available option... But it shouldn't be standard.

-Disassembly isn't quite as intuitive as an AR15. It isn't terrible, and I'm experienced enough that I can basically figure it out based on my knowledge of "the way things are". To others, though, this may not be the case.

-The stock is too short. I'm beginning to become very annoyed with the "tactical" community, in spite of my involvement in it. They make the stock short enough for use with body armor.... But what percentage of their customers are going to be using it with body armor with rifle plates? <1%? The average shooter buying one isn't using rifle plates.

-They didn't improve the extractor. Isn't that what we all complain about, extraction issues? Personally, I like the extractor of an AR15... But most people don't. I can't see why they didn't change that. (My reasoning is that it is better to have a double feed from a failure to extract, clear it, then extract manually.... as opposed to trying too hard to extract a stubborn case and tearing off the head, putting the rifle out of commission. Just my philosophy... I'd rather have two failures every 5000 rounds that are minor, rather than one disaster every 5000.)

-If you're going to have a proprietary bolt, why not bee fit up a bit? That's one of the few things I like about the HK416 style... They put a nice, chunky bolt in it that looks like it will live a long life. I mean, at least make the area around the cam pin a little bigger.

-The adjustable cheek weld is a nice idea.... But it seems gimmicky in the execution.

The barrel is where my biggest problems are...

-Proprietary? Ok, ok, it has a quick change feature.... So what? How often is that really necessary? An AR15 has a quick change barrel system, too... It's called a new upper. Two pins and it's a change over from .50BMG to .22LR in 15 seconds. It may have a little more weight involved, but not much more.

-Not chromed, and 1/9 rifling twist is the next problem. Chrome extends barrel life incredibly. 1/9 rifling doesn't allow use of the really nice defensive and match loads which 1/7 does. And, since they are proprietary barrels... you have to depends on Bushmaster for them, you can't change it yourself to whatever you want.

.... What do you guys think? Am I way off and this is going to be the next "big thing" or will it be unheard of in ten years.... I'm going with something in the middle. I think people will still be clinging to the concept 20 years from now, with some never willing to give up on it. Most people will see the price and just stick with an AR at 1/3 the cost.

.... And, the basic premise isn't impressive.... It's yet another 5.56NATO rifle with a 30 round magazine, and a piston system that is going to save the world.

I build ARs as part of my job at a local gun store where I work full time.... And I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I've never needed all that stuff.

When it comes to checking headspace.... Why? Has anyone ever found new AR parts that didn't headspace correctly? They are made to the same dimensions, and there is no way someone assembling rifles can change it. The barrel extension is attached to the barrel and torqued on very solidly to exacting specifications at the factory. Every bolt is made to fit every barrel extension. Because the barrel extensions, where the locking lugs connect, is attached to the barrel... You can't take off some of the breech and rechamber to correct headspace.

The parts are made to fit..... Modern manufacturing techniques allow this to be so. We have never tested the headspacing in a rifle prior to test firing it, and we have never had one show any signs of over-pressure. Maybe this is because we use quality parts that are made within specifications... But, has anyone else ever had an AR assembled from brand new parts fail to headspace correctly?

Also, how are people managing to spend so much on tools, unless they're just so lazy and gullible that they must spend $50 on every gimmick that comes out? Just yesterday, I heard $400 in specialized tools... That's insane. To assemble a lower, you need a multitool. DPMS makes one that's about $25. A razor blade comes in handy for holding in detents while parts are placed, although it isn't really necessary.

For the upper, you can either use the Brownell's clam shell type, which we use on new builds. Or, you can use the DPMS "claw" for rifles that already have an optic on them if you're replacing a barrel or something. For the average person, the "claw" is more versatile. They cost around $40. You could even go cheaper and get a block of wood that fits the mag well, and clamp the wood in a vice... It isn't the best, but it can be made to work for the home builder who just needs it once.

Other necessities are hardly "specialty" tools. A few punches... Most people probably have those, or could borrow the necessary ones from a friend... Punches are not specialty tools, a cheap set is not expensive at all, and they're good to have on hand.

Beyond that.... a torque wrench is a nice addition, but really isn't necessary for the home-builder. Just make sure everything is snug.

I will admit.... With all the various tools we have for building rifles, the pivot pin installation tools and several types of wrenches for the various rail systems, etc., we probably have $400 or more in specialty tools. However, this is by no means necessary for the average person to put together a rifle at home. To a hobbyist trying to save some money building their own custom rifle... Efficiency is not the issue. If you don't enjoy building the rifle, buy one already built... I can do it faster than you can. If you enjoy it, though, and have a budget.... What's the point in spending a ton on tools to get it over with? Take your time, enjoy your hobby...

Who wants to tell my how wrong I am?

I found a chart online for the various sizes of PVC..... And did a whole plethora of calculations around 2.5" and 3.5" PVC pipe as the basis for a model submarine.

Now, I'm finding that these sizes of pipes (inside diameter) are not common at all.

So.... Before I do all my calculations over again..... What are the common sizes? I want to select sizes I can get at the local stores such as Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace, etc.

That's inside diameter. It has a 4" outside diameter. (3.5" pipe).

I also need a piece with a 2.5" inside diameter, and a 2.875" outside diameter. (2.5" pipe).

Both pieces need to be 36" long.

These aren't normal sizes.... But I found a chart online that lists them and the specs. I assume they're manufactured but I don't know where to find them.