Maken trax

A form requests: "Application must be postmarked by the 23rd."

I read that as it must be done by midnight the 22nd, wife says it's good through the 23rd.

If so, shouldn't it have read, "Postmark no later than the 23rd."

or is it saying the same thing, only different.

or am I splitting hairs here...

Quotation marks in fictional writing:

He knew it was the end, Jim thought.

"He knew it was the end," Jim thought.

"I do know quotation marks go around quotes," as I smiled, "it's is common practice." said Jim

but I don't know when writing fictional and a person thinks to himself, it's not a verbal quote so I believe they won't have the marks... but not sure,...

what is the proper way?

Just got a new computer. I used the 2003 word program and now have the newest word in the computer. How do you do I "select all" for an 80 page document?

I used to go to the top task bar, find select all.. but it's gone... so help this, no so computer smart guy, make it happen.

Select all, how

Car from outside CA, does the above mean it conforms to California emissions for Registration into the state?

Below is how it is listed as seen on plate:

Conforms to regulations:

U.S. EPA: T285 LDV

California: ULEV ii PC

No adjustments needed.

Looking at buying, leaving in 3 days, hauling my wife and stuff down, flying not best option.

2008, Kia Optima, 72,000 miles. Looks like a runner. Is she going to pass CA emissions? What does that take? Idaho guy doing the Navy thing there for a couple years.

What sticker do I need to look for that says it is good in all 50 states or what ever...

Info please.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I am looking at the Chevy Sonic, young couple, big city traffic...

Have there been any trouble with these cars? Bad tranny? engine? doors fall off etc??

Let me know... thanks...

I need a basic, good? proof reading software for stories written by novice.

Something more than spell check, more for sentence composition correction etc.. better than what word systems offer or maybe that is good enough?

Do you have any suggestion?

getting code 304 (or what ever... says plug 4 failure).

It is intermitant miss during warm up. So possibilities is vacuum, coil (all wires go to one coil=not coil pack), plug wire and or fuel injector.

I changed the plug, looked the wire over-wires are fairly new. I cleared code but 3 days later it started idling rough and code for plug 4 is back.

Question: 1.) Do these coils normally fail to each plug or when the do fail is it usually the whole unit.

Question: 2., Fuel injector... possibly?

Question: 3., Vacuum leak... looked all over, don't see, hear a thing, checked all hoses.

what is your thoughts Ford mechanics?

Bulbs are good, no power to rear wagon hatch? Fuse is good?

any ideas?

I posted this a week ago under the Ford area, not one reply. I put more info there on that post or maybe you know what the issue is just from what I described....

good luck..

Septic pumped 10 months ago. Prior to that was 4 years. worked fine till today. Full, no water going out to the seepage pit. Not toilets dripping etc.. inlet is dry so no continuous leak into tank. Had pumped today. Septic tank drains into a seepage pit which was described by the pumper gy as a concrete vessel with holes and rock poured around buried, not sure of size.

Talked to pumper guy and he suggested the following: They will come in, dig down 3 or 4 foot and take access cover off top lid, inspect inside, pump down, inspect, power wash inside, inspect inlet piping and ?

so... any thoughts on this... past practice etc...

Live in Washington State, East Side, older home. Original seepage pit abandoned, this is the second one, 20 years old.... had tank pumped regularly etc... everything else looks good.

Mid 70's duct system installed in older home.

An 8 inch duct separated from the main duct branch. There are 3 of these smaller ducts grouped together which is a real mess. I can not force it back up which tells me it was under strain for a long time till it fatigued and separated.

I am going to use a sheet metal collar to fill the gap, wrap around pipe and screw the tabs to the square duct in which it separated. Normally I would use the sticky metal backed tape but it will be near impossible for me to get the tape around the back side to form a tight seal.. so.. I want to do the following..

So, I know there will be gaps. I am thinking of taking a can of expanding foam and foam the gaps. This should expand out, fill gaps and I can wrap it back up with the duct insulation.

Any thoughts of why I shouldn't do that?

Have a house in the North West, built in the early 60's. The electrical is a two prong with a bare copper neutral in the box, so not a current 3 prong set up. I noted a #4 wire coming off the ground bar that heads into the attic which I believe drops into a wall, possibly crawl space and lands/connects to a cold water line for the ground. I also noticed no ground rods around the home or external ground wires outside by the electrical panel.

I recently made some modifications to the home. I moved the water heater to the garage and installed pex water piping.

What I have done: I sank two 8ft ground rods about 10 foot apart and ran a #6 between the two. I then attached #6 wire at one of the ground rods and ran that up into the attic and lugged it to the #4 bare copper in attic where it comes up from panel leaving about 5 ft of extra wire. From there I started on the other side of the house, put a ground clamp on the main copper water line, ran #6 bare ground wire under house to garage and put a jumper on hot/cold on water heater and then continued up into the attic to attach to the 5 ft tail of copper in attic.

So to recap... two new ground rods, ground to copper water line as it comes into the house and picked up the water heater back to the ground rods. I also ran a ground off the ground rods to the heat pump outside. My goal was to give the system a better ground should there be a short since it seemed to be lacking anywhere for it to go should there be issues.

did I miss anything or any suggestions? I am currently putting in GFCI's in the bathrooms. In a year or two I will change out the main pannel.

I stopped by a little coffee, snack booth. people were Swahili, they recommended a tea ... sounded like: Sha-lee, or Shaw-Lee. It was a tea? Possibly some milk? and spices?

what was this or how to pro-nounce..

Thanks

One of our 4 trusted layers is sick. Symptoms: beak open what looks like panting, wings out away from body and my wife says droopy... but I say just opened up a bit. Bristled tail feathers. Walking very slow. No watery eyes, pussy or fluids, poop thus far looks fine. we have 4 hens and 4 eggs in the nest when we came back from church....

We are going to separate her from the rest and give her vitamin water...

any ideas?

Using test strip, Alkalinity is like 240 ppm, it says it should be 80-120 so I need to bring that down, What would I add to bring Alkalinity down in a pool?

PH: I am reading 8.4, should be about 7.5 need to bring that down also so what would I add to pool?

Cyanuric Acid should be 30-50.. what the heck is it... I am like 0... needs to go up...?

It is a small 12 round pool, about 3,000 gal. above ground pool, with filter, circlating pump etc...

Late fall, 5 amp fuse blew on the Fan Circuit Board in furnace. hmmmm... Replace fuse... all good. Month later it blew again, Replace fuse...all good, week later (now winter) I couldn't keep fuse in as blew every time. Hmmm... figure if I am going to call a heat guy I will put new electronic T-stat in. Took out old Mercury switches and put in Honneywell (Home box basic) and tried again with new fuse... it wouldn't blow fuse but it would start on E-Heat. So I got house warm with the e-heat.

Being winter and all I said screw it and ran on E-heat with out the heat pump. Weather got nicer so I called a friend of family, do to medical issues he was no longer active as HVAC guy and he came and looked it over... He said I wired the new T-stat in right... got the right codes keyed in, ..... we did a continuity check on each of the low voltage wires from T-stat to furnace and furnace to heat pump. He poked.. prodded... He had a spare transformer so he took that outside and fired the Heat pump up... put that Transformer in the furnace and would fire furnace but they won't fire together. Hmmmmmm.....

So.... he scratched his head and had to take three months off for travel, he got back and now needs a month to recover ....his interest in my furnace failure is waning, I figure I would start the shot-gun effect, figure parts aren't bad but labor will kill so I changed out the furnace Circuit board and see if that made a difference... it didn't. So I can scratch that off the list. I can only fire on e-heat... no heat pump for heating and cooling... I don't mind spending on parts here and there... now I got spares and learning the unit better..

Would like advice as to what may be the issue? I am thinking I should change all low voltage wire from furnace to T-stat and Heat pump... remember he could get Heat pump to come on by using a Transformer out by unit but can't seem to get the two to work together...

Any ideas?

Also, when i fire unit in Auto with New Honeywell it does a click......click.click... like it just shut down... turn to e-heat... click....fires up.... "how is that for some color commentary!"

Heat Pump: Carrier Tech 2000 SS

Furnace: Electric 40FKA005300

New Circuit Board: HK61EA005

I need to make a 12ft x 20 ft x 4" thick slab for tool shed. I don't want to call in a cement truck, don't want to haul with a truck those pony dumps... I want to have gravel, cement, lime delivered, mix and dump.. I will have to do it in sections... no hurry., have time and able to do physically... what do you think?

I need ideas that I can take 8, 15 year old boy scouts to visit a business, have the owner etc, talk to them regarding career's in that field... I would like input on what might be beyond the normal Trade, or Office manager etc.... position... so anybody have some ideas that might be interesting?? ..

They have been aclimitizing to the cooler to colder weather. I have a heater on the water and currently my coop runs about 10 deg. warmer than outside. Their coop is insulated, not drafty but with proper ventilation. If it is 25 F. outside it is about 35 inside. They are fed extra corn/scratch and seem o.k., I am worried when it get to 5 deg. F and that would mean the coop will be sitting abot 15 to 20 deg..... if they are climatized, huddled up are they able to survive these temps?

A heat lamp is not practicle in the small coop so I have an 80 watt flat heater on the floor that they roost about 6 " above. A heat lamp would roast the girls... a larger Wattage floor heater would trip the circut breaker and they could loose heat in the middle of the night... These birds have been around for 1,000 years... so what say the chicken people?

Please... only chicken people only... no.. oh.. poor things! as I have found these girls are tough little hens.

Here is your mission should you choose to accept it... HELP!!!!

It's not horribly cold out, have back up heaters but trying to change T-stat. I have wired Hydronic boilers so know the new stuff but this retro is kicking my butt.

Older home, 1964 with Electric Furnace and Heat pump for heat and A.C. Old T-stat has Mercury bulbs. Furnis replace about 15 years ago.. appears some wires left dangling.. you will read below.

New Honeywell RTH7400 Series from The Home depot for Furnace/Heatpump, A.C. Jump on me later for that... buy hey.. I'm a homeowner... where else can I go...

Facing new base plate to land wires there is a power strip on the left and one on the right. there are 8-lugs on the left and 3-on the left.

Issues and why tackle now: Last winter the low voltage 5 amp fuse blew, replaced. last week, again 5 amp low volt blew, changed and fired up for a day or two... and blew again. Looked for a grounded wire on low voltage side.. none found... posted on here to replace T-stat so here I am. What complicates is fuse blows when energized so system is basicly down so till I get some wires pluged in to base plate and energize which should not blow a fuse as the T-stat won't yet be isnerted into base plate.... possibly a ground wire out at Heat pump but I checked... but first thing first.. get these wires landed...

As found, wires coming off top strip on old mercury T-stat:

R=Red, 1 or T? =Brown, G=Green, O=Orange, W=White Y=yellow, X2=Dark Blue, B=Dark Blue for a total of 8 wires.

Wire coming off of control board on Furnise where 5 amp fuse blows that feeds the Old T-stat:

D=(Blank), R=Red, W=White, Y1=(Blank), Y2=Yellow, G=Green, O=Orange, C=dark Blue or Blk? (the dark Blue splits at furniss, one to heat pump-one to T-stat)

Now... issues....

At the furniss the B=Brown wire is cut and not tied to anything, also; one of the Dark blues (2 too old T-stat) is also cut in furniss and is connected but dead at the T-stat.

so.. lets eliminate those two dead wires as for what ever reason (they replaced furniss 15 years ago prior to us moving in... so newer furniss but original T-stat.)

So... the active wires at the wall to install the new T-stat would be:

R=Red, G=Green, O=Orange, W=White Y=yellow, X2=Dark Blue/BLK, (One Brown and Dark Blue/blk wires apear to go to nothing?) This means I have 6 wires to plug in.

The new T-stat has two sets of marking.. those on the innerside of the terminal strip are for "conventional system" and the markings on the outer side of the terminal strip are for "wiring-heat pump" systems... ie... furniss with heat pump on it???

Quesion 1. ) I am susupecting I should use the color coding for the

"outside as there is a heat pump?

Now the new T-stat, the color codes read for heat pump install reads on the left side:

C=Common? color?, G=green, y=yellow, O/B=Orange/brown?, RC=?, R=Red

on the right side it reads: Aux=? , E=? , L=?

Markings on the inside of the power strip are:

C=common, G=Green, Y=yellow, RC=? (jumper to R) R=Red, W2, Y2

Markings on the Inside of the power strip on right are: W2=?, Y2= ?,

so more issues... if I use the color scheme on the inside I have a place to land the white.. if I use the outside there is no white lug.... and on the outside no orange.... ???????

o.k.... what do I need to do to figure this out... remember... furnis is dead... but can energize but if ground is at heat pump it will blow 5 amp fuse.. so need to figure this out with info given...

lets Get er done!