Spills

I've got a PC that I built a few years ago. ABIT IC7-G motherboard, Socket 478 processor. I've had issues with it in the past. Right now (after I've cleared the CMOS), It will boot up, and right after it does the IDE check the system siren goes off. Then it will either say NTLDR is missing, or CPU is unworkable. I haven't seen any ways to diagnose this at all and I dont feel like dropping $100 on a decent MB/CPU combo. I've tried booting with 2 separate formatted disks (1 SATA and 1 IDE) and still get the same thing, all the while having a Win XP CD in the drive. I took out all of my memory and put them in one at a time, same thing. I have no idea what is wrong, can anyone help me out here?

I'm using an old 16" electric fan off my 89 Camaro as a vent fan for a 7'x3'x3' media blasting booth I've built. I've got it wired to 12v with a switch and relay just like it would be in the car. But I want to be able to control the fan speed based on the type of media I am using. I have no idea about the specs on the motor except that it's 12V, and it won't work on 6V (tried it on the battery charger, didn't spin). I thought maybe a potentiometer, but I'm not sure if I need to adjust the ohms or the watts. Any ideas? Someone has said to use a solid state controller, but I have no idea what it is. I'm looking for the cheapest way.

The switch I'm using right now is actually a 115V $.99 from Home Depot. you think I could try using one of those fan dimmer switches? I know they make them for lights, but dont they make them for fans as well?

I'm building a powder coat booth, and I need a fan to pull out the dust and powder left behind as I am shooting. I've got a cheap Wal Mart box fan that I want to install a potentiometer on so I can fine tune the air speed. I've found out that the rotary switch with the "1-2-3-Off" is just that; a switch. The resistance is actually in the motor. On the "3" wire going to the motor (the "high" setting), there is appx. 37 ohms. I was thinking of getting a potentiometer that goes from 0-100 ohms and installing it on the "3" wire. That way I can still go lower than the fan could before if need be, or go wide open like it was originally designed to, all the while having total control over air speed. Are there any specific potentiometers I should look for? Voltage ratings, wattages, anything specific?

I do powder coating and media blasting on the side. I made up my business card but I need a watermark for the center to liven it up a bit. I wanted to put some kind of car, be it a Camaro, Corvette, '55, etc. Would this really be considered illegal? I'm not putting the "bowtie" on the card, but rather a picture or drawing of a car.

I have two refrigerators with two problems, Id like to get one to work! Both were free to me, so Id like to fix one of them as cheap as possible. BOTH of them are small dorm-style fridges.

First one: My dad bought locally from a guy, it's a Sunbeam model# SCR04PMWBW. We think it may be a compressor failure because he had to sit the fridge on it's side for about 45 minutes to get it home, and he did not wait 24 hours before plugging it in. Anyways, he got it home and it worked for a few days then just quit. Now when you plug it in NOTHING happens, no clicking or anything. Id like to fix this one, mainly because it is alot newer and bigger than this next one,

2nd one: Avanti model# 17-7 RC/RW. Got it from a guy at work who had to put it on a timer because it would freeze, but he never had anything in there longer than 3 hours. Even on a timer, I had a six pack of soda in there and they froze in a matter of days. I took the cold control out, and it looks very worn and rusted. From what I can see it is a danfoss model, if that means anything (seen on an overseas electronics website). This fridge at least turns on, but it's not dependable at all. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated!!

I bought a used oven a few months back. I think lightning may have hit the house while we were gone because we came home and the control panel does not work. It's a Whirlpool Microwave and Range drop in, I cannot recall the model# right now. I took the control panel out and looked for signs of burning. I seen some brown spots around 2 big resistors, but they check out fine.

I just so happened to try a random diode on the board, and I got no ohm readings at all. I switched the polarity and still nothing. I began to think I had found the problem, but I checked all the other diodes on the board and the same thing, no readings at all! Am I doing something wrong, or could it be possible that all my diodes fried at the same time? I should say that the board is disconnected from the oven so there is NO POWER SUPPLY, I am only checking ohm readings at this time.

I use this oven for powder coating, not home cooking. I would rather fix the problem myself rather than call someone to fix it, or even worse buy another oven! But the readings I got from that diode seem to tell me that every diode on the board is open

Ive been seeing soo many pictures, and on the bottom it will say one word, let's say "Camaro", anything really. Then below that it says some kind of clever saying like "So many Mustangs, so little time". IM NOT FORD BASHING!! Just an example, Ive been curious what the name of this type of art is, Ive been wanting to find some pictures on the internet that's displayed this way, but I dont know what to search for. Anyone know they type of photo Im talking about? Ive got a link here, but be forewarned its from Craigslist from the rants and raves section, so you "must be 18 or older to view". Its the picture in the bottom right corner.

http://athensga.craigslist.org/rnr/707893035.html

Last digits of my SS# are 46, and by looking at the IRS site it says my stimulus check will be deposited NO LATER than May 9th. I know it's only the 10th, usually my bank will show deposits the next day. Anyone else having this problem?

I bought a regulator/filter for my 60 gal air compressor from a local guy, and on the side of it says "125psi max". Does this mean that the maximum I should have coming out SAFELY is 125psi, or does this refer to incoming pressure? My compressor puts out 155psi and I cannot change it it (non-adjustable pressure switch). Ive alrady got the regulator piped in and everything, I didnt even think about this until a few days ago. Is it safe to use as is, Im just confused on how they rate the pressure ratings. Thanks!

I bought a 40lb Maxus pressurized sandblaster for a small powder coating gig Im starting on the side. I got it all hooked up inside my blast cabinet and started with "medium" glass beads, looks like reaaallly fine beach sand. IT said set to 60psi max for the glass, so I did but its like there is not enough pressure or something, theres alot of volume coming out of the nozzle (smalest one that came with the kit), but it wont even remove light rust on an old wrench. Would stepping up to aluminum oxide make that much of a difference, or is there a bigger problem here? I was hoping that AO set at 100psi would take off just about anything I need. Is this my problem, or is somethine else not working right? Thanks!!!

I got a 60 gal air compressor from Northern Tool. The compressor is set to kick on at 125psi and cut off at 150psi. Is there an easy way to make it cut off at a lower PSI, like have it cut on at 100-110psi and cut off at 125psi? I could put in a lower relief valve, but then the compressor would still keep running (elec. motor). Is there a way to do this? My filter/regulator/lubricator is only set to 125psi and I dont want to risk something blowing up, and I doubt Ill ever need 150psi, 125 should be fine. Thanks!!!

I just bought an oven for really cheap because it wasnt working, and come to find out there are 2 relays that run the bake and broil heating elements that are bad (clear covers on the relays, and theres alot of black inside from where they burn or something). The Omron part number on the relays are:

G2R-1A-E-T130 DC24

I found some here, http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp... , but they do not have any in stock. Im afraid to use anything other than whats already installed, 240V aint something to fool around with!! Most Elec. shops locally dont have any, any ideas/links to where I can get 2 of them online? Thanks!!

I bought a used oven for some small powder coating jobs in my shop. I got it wired up, but it's not heating up at all. Ive got 240V coming out of the wall,and I cannot see any visible broken wires inside the oven. I hooked a probe up to the heating element wires (disconnected from the element itself), turned the oven to 350 degrees and Im only getting 44-45V. I also hooked up an ohm meter to the element, and there is no resistance at all. I cannot remember the exact model oven I got, but I think its a relatively new whirpool (maybe 5-8 years old) with digital controls. How would I go about diagnosing this problem without calling an electrician? I have basic electrical knowledge so Im hoping I can figure this out on my own. Thanks!!!

Ive got the possibility og getting a huge air tank from a shop (+80gal), buts its 3 phase and the either the motor or compressor is going bad. My shop at my house is only wired for a 220v air compressor. Would it be worth it to basically srap the 3 phase motor/compressor and put on a 220v motor/compressor? If so, where can I find a matched set that will work together? Or would it be best to get a Husky 60gal 220v compressor from Home Depot for ~$400? Looking for the cheapest option here. Thanks!!

Ive been hearing this song on Octane on Sirius, and I cannot get enough of it. Ive been looking for a music vid for it, but all Im finding is live performances and stuff

Im trying to figure out what the name/artist of a song is in that movie, its played twice in it actually. First time is towards the beginning when the guy dies in the helicopter, and in the end when Howie Long dies, right before they play "New Disease" by Spineshank. Its got a smooth guitar riff to it that slowy turns into (what sounds like) mellow metal. Anyone know? Ive been trying to find it for sometime, but I dont want to buy the soundtrack just to find out who the original artist is, ya know? Thanks!

Ive got a DYNAPOWER USA 86B2 PC case that I built up a few years ago. The only thing that gripes me about it is the front LED/Neon light bars. It has 2 vertical bars on the left and right side on the front panel. On both abrs at the top, the light stays blue. But on the bottom, the colors constantly change. but they change at different rates!! Is there anyway to make them stay the same color, or is there somewhere that I can get replacement light bars without buying a new case?