fhl_devils

I'm looking at a new Projector, and it needs to have the following criteria:

- HDMI & 1080p (duh)

- 110" diagonal (96" wide) on a 10' throw (not difficult)

- LED highly preferred, DLP or "standard" is up to the price

But the kicker is that I don't have a ceiling-mount option, nor table-mount viable. I have a shelf that is set (including lens height) at approximately the center of the screen. Therefore I need a projector with a zero (+/-5%) Offset. This instantly eliminates Optoma and BenQ.

I have an Optoma "tipped down" right now, and it doesn't have sufficient throw or keystone capabilities to accommodate the new room.

Any advice would be appreciated.

235/60R17, $120-140 price range

Falken ZIEX ZE-912

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QL5YO6

Kumho Solus KR21

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QL6HPQ

BF Goodrich Advantage T/A 102T

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6H4DF0

Continental ProContact EcoPlus

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5AQ49M

235/60R17, $120-140 price range

Falken ZIEX ZE-912

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QL5YO6

Kumho Solus KR21

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QL6HPQ

BF Goodrich Advantage T/A 102T

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6H4DF0

To those who do car audio, this is going to be a stupid question... But I'm not a car guy...

Is it possible to put two Single-DIN "devices" into a Double-DIN slot (instead of the current plan of single-din and storage tray). And if this is possible, any recommendations on a solid-enough backup unit at a good price (preferably via Amazon)?

Thanx!

Was at a pet store today and saw the Arm & Hammer stuff, but at a capful per 8 ounces of fountain water, and $6.99 a bottle, I think a moderately priced champagne would be cheaper than using this for our five idiots (cats). Is there a "home brew" recipe out there that can accomplish a similar thing?

So I tried to put in a Starter Ink, and it told me that I had run out of times I can use a Starter, and a red light appeared under the Yellow drop-slot. I purchased standard ink (non-metered), comparing the codes on the bottom of the ink, and ensuring the correct part numbers (confirmed my S/N with Xerox)... And now the printer is telling me that I'm using the wrong ink. I'm sure it's something to do with that red light, as everything was great until that lit up. Any ideas on what this means and/or how to make it go away, and let me use my ink!

I would like to have a logo for our sports club professionally designed. I have foundation images, but not the skill to put it all together. I've contacted a video game designer (who did the art the image will be based off), and while the quality would be amazing, the price is simply out of budget for a non-profit sports club. I'm not trying to be cheap - it just can't be 4-figures expensive.

I'm not looking for some art student who thinks they can whip up something good enough in their spare time - I want QUALITY. Any suggestions?

I have an Ikea chair, and after a while, the padding starts to slide thru the slats, so I bought some heavy canvas to use as a backing material. I us this chair a LOT (at minimum, several hours a day, usually more), so the durability of these staples and holding the fabric properly is key.

a) Any general advice? I know not to stretch the fabric tightly, or it's more likely to stretch/tear... Anything else?

b) Should I staple vertically? Horizontally? Alternate?

So I had a Class 4 card, and could do a 10 image High-Res Burst in 13.86 seconds (first press to ready to shoot again). Changed to a 100x UHS-1 card (Class 10), and the speed dropped by a whopping <5% to 13.42 seconds. Just got my should-be-pretty-smokin-hot 32Gb 233x UHS-1...... And 12.96 seconds.

What's going wrong here? The transfer speed on a 233x UHS-1 should be (yeah, yeah, UP TO) 10x faster than a Class 4. But I'm not even getting 1.1x faster than my crappy old MicroSD Class 4.

Sony DSC-TX10

That doesn't cost a ton. I currently have a Razer Lycosa, but it definitely has some flaws:

- It randomly turns off the lighting

- The indent in the middle is not pleasant for a lap-typer like me

- Huge/heavy USB cable

- The "light-on" button doesn't always respond

- the WASD option is worthless to me

However, my girlfriend has a Razer mouse, and likes the blue color of the keys (as do I), and wants my board - so I now have the opportunity to upgrade mine with no complaints from her [;-)

I do not have ANY need for a mouse (I've used a CH Trackball for almost 20 years), so I won't pay a price premium for that. I definitely don't want mechanical-touch (the distinct click). I've gone thru a few articles online, but they all seem so specific to one model - I can't really compare cross-manufacturer...

So what do you guys like?

That doesn't cost a ton. I currently have a Razer Lycosa, but it definitely has some flaws:

- It randomly turns off the lighting

- The indent in the middle is not pleasant for a lap-typer like me

- Huge/heavy USB cable

- The "light-on" button doesn't always respond

- the WASD option is worthless to me

However, my girlfriend has a Razer mouse, and likes the blue color of the keys (as do I), and wants my board - so I now have the opportunity to upgrade mine with no complaints from her [;-)

I do not have ANY need for a mouse (I've used a CH Trackball for almost 20 years), so I won't pay a price premium for that. I definitely don't want mechanical-touch (the distinct click). I've gone thru a few articles online, but they all seem so specific to one model - I can't really compare cross-manufacturer...

So what do you guys like?

The first I can think of would be that a ceramic heater would be far more drying, but what are the other benefits / negatives of an Oil Radiating Heater over a standard Forced Air.

I've got three prospects coming in, and the biggest ratings gainer from the previous season - and they are all listed as RM (Right Mid). I'd love to move one of them to LW and one to CAM, and I know I can do this when I make my lineup, but I would like to move their natural position there. Is it possible to change the "natural" position of a player?

I shoot Water Polo, so I need a camera with a high shutter speed and rapid/continuous shot (at least 3-4 per second). In Canada, Polo is an indoor sport, so it has to produce a quality picture under artificial light. Lastly, if it could be waterproof (or at minimum, strongly water resistant), that would be ideal.

I'm a coach, shooting this for things like player cards, pictures to sell and marketing. I'm no pro, and don't know much / anything about focal lengths, and definitely don't want to get into changing lenses. I'll be right at pool side, so there is some splash risk. If I could be in the water, that would be even better, but I have a camcorder for that - although it takes pathetic stills.

A buddy got an advance-release-model Sony down in Vegas 4-5 years ago that does a solid job, and it cost him $350 at the time. It does a decent job (especially with the continuous shot), but isn't wonderful under artificial light, and has a tendency to blur.

I'm not looking to make sports photography a career. My day-job is in Graphic Design, so once I have the picture, I can definitely take care of the rest of it. I'm bankrolling the entire club at my expense, so while I understand the passion and desire to accept nothing but the best from Photography Professionals - in this case, all I really need is "good enough to get the job done WELL". We have a 10-year-old Olympus that is good on portraits, but horrible on action (especially indoors), as well as a new GE X5 that has been utterly disappointing.

MUST Have:

Continuous Shot

Water Resistant

Good Indoors

Optical Zoom (the higher, the better, of course)

Fast Shutter Speed / no fuzzy-edges

No changeable lenses

I shoot Water Polo, so I need a camera with a high shutter speed and rapid/continuous shot (at least 3-4 per second). In Canada, Polo is an indoor sport, so it has to produce a quality picture under artificial light. Lastly, if it could be waterproof (or at minimum, strongly water resistant), that would be ideal.

And naturally, I want this as cheap as possible [;-)

So I (think I) know I need a MultiMeter, but what I need is one to find out the draw of all my devices COMBINED thru wall plug. I have Plasma / PS3 / Receiver on one circuit; Projector / PS3 / Receiver / Wii on another; 2 computers / 2 monitors on another and all my DSL / Networking / External HD (and Misc other) on another. I also have several UPS systems. Basically I need to know how much each circuit TOTALS in order to optimize my UPS usage - because is my power draw is greater than the battery support, then it all dies anyway on power outage.

Basically, what I need is a device that I can plug into the wall, and plug my UPS into, that will tell me how much power that UPS is drawing (therefore, if it will be too much to support on battery - without crapping out my equipment to test it).

This is really just for home use, so I don't want to spend a lot on this.

Any ideas are appreciated!

I bought a 1080p tv to use as a monitor. Now, I wasn't expecting miracles, it's not a monitor, so I know the pixel composition is a little different... But this is pretty grim. First off, I can't run it in 1080 since stuff bleeds off the edge (and the text is no better in true 1080), so I'm running 1768x992. Picture-wise, I'm fine. But ALL text is blocky, distorted (not anti-alias'd properly), and has a halo.

Is this just how 1080p PC-compatible TVs run, or did I get a lemon, or is there some hidden compatibility setting?

Panasonic 32" U22, DVI->HDMI input

Yes, I hate my pool, but it's a small town, so options are limited. I've tried negotiating to use a different pitch, but the city is not willing to have their lifeguards standardize on a whistle pitch (even if I buy them!). The rule is "only lifeguards can use whistles". Yes, I hate my pool, but I've said that already. Does anyone have ideas on alternatives that would be viable in a pool environment, for Water Polo, but reasonably cost effective?

I'm looking at the first three projectors here:

http://www.ncix.com/search/?categoryid=2-1227&q=10...

if you don't want to click:

Optoma HD200X @ $1200

BenQ W1000 @ $1500

Epson Powerlite 8100 @ $1730

I am WILLING to spend the money, but of course I would rather not if the difference isn't dramatic enough. The room is not very dark during the day, but pitch black at night. Personally, I'm a contrast nut, and obviously want enough lumens keep me happy. It's an 11' span projecting onto a 7' wall, and the mounting should be close to 100% straight (so Vert. sync isn't a huge issue, and H-sync isn't needed at all).

Which of the above will I likely be happiest with - or is there another model in this same price range I should look at.

Question 2 - I would rather go with a painted wall than a screen - what color (specific as possible, please) would be ideal, and would it be advantageous to get paint with reflective pigments?

I've looked up a lot of trimmers, but they all seem to max out at Guard #4, with the occasional one at #8. I like #14, but can accept a #12 (both guards would be nice). They must ship to Canada, and I would prefer to pay by PayPal. It must also be of fairly decent quality, as I would want to use it every couple of months, and for many years. Any ideas or suggestions?