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Anonymous
Anonymous asked in Cars & TransportationBuying & Selling · 1 decade ago

Is no-haggle car pricing really a good deal?

There's only one new Mazda dealer in town, and I want a Mazda 3. All their pricing is "no haggle" final pricing, and it's about the same as listed on the Mazda website, down to the dollar on add-ons. Should I pay the no-haggle price, or negotiate anyway?

Update:

I have checked online prices of nearby larger cities (Seattle, Portland and Salt Lake City) and they're a few thousand more. So it doesn't seem worth it to drive all that way and start out negotiating at a higher price.

Update 2:

Ha ha! Dogbettor you are the typical car salesman, trying to get me into a car I do not want!

11 Answers

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  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Dealers are out to make money. No-haggle pricing does not mean that it's the lowest price.

    If the prices they're offering are the same as the Mazda website, then there is room for them to go lower. Look at the acronym, MSRP. That stands for manufacturer's SUGGESTED retail price. I guarantee you that the dealer did not buy the car for that amount. They bought it for at least 20% less than that if not more.

    The first thing you should do is decide that you're not going to settle for one dealership, just because they're in-town. Go to the nearest Big City in your area. There should be at least two or three dealerships there. You want to find the dealer that moves the most vehicles through each month, because that means that they are also getting better deals from the manufacturer, which means that you can get a better deal on the car.

    Okay, so if/when you're negotiating here are a couple of tips.

    1. Find a dealer that has an internet sales division. Most times, there are no commissions figured into the prices that the internet sales will be able to sell for. Therefore, by buying online you can save big. You can pretty much do the entire deal through email, etc. and then go to the dealership and sign papers and take the car home.

    2. MINI -- a mini is something that most dealers will offer their salesmen. It means "minimum." It's basically saying that if the car ends up having to be sold for what the dealer paid, or lower, then the salesman will get a "minimum" amount of money for the sale. Salesmen don't like to do it, but it can be done.

    3. "I'm not interested in what you CAN'T do, so let's figure out what you CAN do." Every time you try to negotiate something, whether it's a lower price or added features (tint, etc.) you'll hear the salesman say "Oh, well I can't do that." DO NOT LET HIM GET AWAY WITH THAT! Every time they say it, you return quickly with, "I don't want to know what you can't do. That doesn't do me any good. I need to know what you CAN do." This will annoy the heck out of most salesmen, but it puts them in the frame of mind to work FOR you, not against you. It also lets them know that you're not going to let them take control of this negotiation.

    4. Trade-in AFTER the deal is done. If you tell the salesman right away about any trade in's or down payments that you want to do, they'll figure that as guaranteed money, and will work the deal with those figures in mind. ALSO, they'll try to get more from you, because they know that you've already conceeded to give up this much investment. So the idea is to go in saying that you have no down payment, and no trade-in. You can tell them that you MIGHT have a trade-in or that you are still thinking about it, but don't commit. Work on the price of the vehicle until you get it where YOU want it. Then when it's all done, THEN you say, okay, let's add in this trade-in, or this down payment, or both.

    5. Lastly, don't do something that you're not comfortable with. If you can't get the price where you want it, and you're not completely happy with the deal, walk away. Many times they'll call you back the next day or the next, when they really need to make a sale. When you get them to the point that THEY are the ones that need YOU, then you have an advantage.

    Good luck!

    Source(s): Several successful car negotiations.
  • 1 decade ago

    For a preowned car it really depends. The city where I am in there are lot of dealers and I have found out from experience of buying in the past that not all "no haggle prices" are equal. For a specific car I have seen the no haggle prices vary between $2k to $3k between dealers... I'd suggest to look on the internet www.cars.com or www.autotrader.com before you buy the car. Usually a lot of dealers advertise on these websites and they have what is called an internet pricing. Usually these prices are really close to rockbottom and they do this to stay in competition. Still you need to compare the internet pricing for several dealers.. sometimes you have to call them to get the internet pricing... Once you are in the dealership (that is after you get the internet pricing) try to negotiate another $500... Though, I think it will be very difficult on a Mazda 3 because the car is in really high demand due to high gas prices...

    For a new car though, on a Mazda 3 I'd say if you can get something within $100 or $200 over the invoice price it will be great bargain... If you can drive a little farther out you may be able to find more dealers out of town... For a new car you can really negotiate over the phone and do the deal and then make the long trip to the out of town dealership and drive it back home... There is not really a whole lot of things that you have to worry on a new car.. you just need to pick the color, options etc...

    By the way Mazda 3 is an excellent car. I own one.. terrific value!! Good luck!

    Source(s): done a lot of car purchasing.. from experience.
  • 1 decade ago

    No haggle does not benefit the customer. Find a Mazda dealer that will discount and let the haggling begin. If you have a trade in even the so called no haggle dealers must haggle regarding your trade's value. If you visit a dealer in the next town you'll find that they are more apt to give you a better deal because you are not in their anticipated customer base and they know that this is the opportunity to steal a customer from a competitor. This is true with all brands, not just Mazda. You should consider a Suzuki Reno. We have 2 in our family. Similar to the Mazda 3 but with more standard equipment and a lower price!

    Source(s): 40 years in the business
  • 1 decade ago

    No Haggle pricing makes buyers FEEL better because they know that anyone else who bought that car at that dealership would get the same price. This gives them security knowing they aren't being "taken advantage of"

    Realistically, however, no haggle dealerships aren't usually the lowest priced. While price negotiation is stressful to some people, it can only benefits the buyer. No one has ever haggled their way to a higher price.

    If you want the lowest price you will work for it and start negotiating. If paying a little extra is worth a stress free buying process - go for the no haggle.

    The particular dealership you're talking about seems very high. My girlfriend just bought a new 07 Mazda 3 and got it at invoice price. You can get the invoice price at edmunds.com

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  • Anonymous
    6 years ago

    This Site Might Help You.

    RE:

    Is no-haggle car pricing really a good deal?

    There's only one new Mazda dealer in town, and I want a Mazda 3. All their pricing is "no haggle" final pricing, and it's about the same as listed on the Mazda website, down to the dollar on add-ons. Should I pay the no-haggle price, or negotiate anyway?

    Source(s): haggle car pricing good deal: https://biturl.im/YtbZ0
  • 1 decade ago

    No. There's no other mazda dealers so theres no competition, so the dealer is not willing to negotiate. I live in a city like yours, only one dealership of Hondas and Mazdas. Request that emails from different dealers from different cities close to you or even bigger cities 3-4 or even 5-6 hrs away be sent to you on the car you want, you can do that by going to edmunds.com. Most dealers will beat or meet lower prices if they think they might lose you as a customer. Find the pricing that you like. It could be the differrence of saving thousands off because those dealers are more willing to negotiate to get your business. I flew to a different city for $115 one way that was 6 hrs away and drove the car home but saved thousands. On edmunds your goal on your car is to get as close to the invoice price as possible and not paying for special pkgs etc. As far as trade ins, when it all comes down to it, the dealer is really paying you nothing for your car. Plus when the dealer knows you have a trade in theyre less flexible in negotiating. Youre better off selling the car outright to an individual. I got below invoice price on my car and free pkgs and tinting and its brand new.

  • 1 decade ago

    Most dealers that have went to 1 price Mark their cars up $600- $3000 depending on the car. It is convenient but can be very costly. I would take that price and compare it to another dealer even if I had to drive an hour or 2. I think it will be well worth your time.

    10 years auto business

  • 5 years ago

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  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Think about it, who really loses when you haggle, the car dealer, I'm glad someone else realized how stupid that marketing gimmic is.

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