Harsh But not too Harsh bits?

Paris,

There is nothing in the breed, age or gender of the horse that designates what sort of bit should be used.

People who tell you you need a harsher bit tend to be viewing the bit as a control device rather than as a communication tool. If one is relying on the bit to stop the horse, it's obvious they view the bit as a means of control rather than communication.

Bit harshness is not so much a function of the bit itself as much as it is based upon the way the rider uses it. I can put a horse in the bit you use, put them on a horse and the horse might freak out if the rider isn't using the bit properly as the horse has been trained to respond to it. Likewise, I may be able to take your horse and put what you think is a VERY harsh bit in it's mouth and work wonders with it.

Controlling your horse is done by properly establishing communication with him. Consider that horses don't communicate with each other via use of a bit or words. They use body space, body language, pressure and 'feel'. Horses can sense the tension in another being - whether another horse or another person. You cannot put a bit in your horse's mouth and expect him to simply know what you're trying to tell him by pulling on it. The horse doesn't understand - you have to TEACH him what all the cues you give him mean. The horse doesn't only have your hands and the bit to use to try to build understanding of what's expected - he has all sorts of messages coming to him. What you are doing with your feet, legs, torso, the rigidity of your spine, your breathing rate, heart rate and the words you utter are all coming at him and he must turn these into something he can understand by trying and seeing if he was right. When you give a horse a cue, how does he know whether he's right or wrong? Ideally, his rider will release all pressure from reins and relax the body, speak soothingly and perhaps stroke his neck - giving him very little in the way of messages - this is viewed by him as his reward for doing right. If you give him a cue to do something like start or stop, when he does this, you immediately release all pressure on the bit and relax and praise him. This reinforces what he did after a certain cue from you is right - he thinks "aha - that's what that set of movements means!" then he tries to respond to the same cue again in the same way to get the same reward. To a horse, absence of pressure is his reward - pressure = do something.

So if he has no brakes, rather than relying on the bit to stop him, consider what you are giving him for a cue - if, for example, you pull on the reins yet maintain rigidity in your spine and your legs clamped to his sides, you're giving him conflicting signals. Try this - from the standstill when you first mount, do not engage the reins at all - rather sit for a second like a limp rag then focus on your body bringing up your energy - stiffen your spine, squeeze with your thighs and calves - when he steps out, maintain the pressure - then, when you wish him to stop DO NOT engage the bit, instead go limp - sit deeply in the saddle, no squeezing with legs and jelly-like spine, wait for him to stop. Still don't engage the reins at all - if he does stop, even after 10 steps. Immediately praise him "good boy" softly with a stroke on the neck allowing him to stand for a moment. Repeat the exercise - next time it might still take 10 steps for him to stop, but by the 3rd to 5th time, I bet it takes him less steps to stop - and you've taught him brakes without ever engaging the bit.

If the first time you go limp and he doesn't stop after about 10 strides, then engage the bit just a little and wait another few steps, a little more if there's still no stop. What your goal should be is a horse that is NOT reliant on the bit for stopping - the bit should be a cue used in conjunction with other cues - the horses who respond to the lightest cues via the bit are trained this way.

Regarding your current bit, the Myler bits are fabulous - they're made of the best materials, they offer tongue relief so you can't ever pull so hard as to make a horse feel completely trapped, the Dee rings offer no leverage - leverage bits are easier to impart a nut-cracker pinch or gag on the horse. The port allows the tongue to move so you can't gag the horse.

IF what I've suggested doesn't work - and it won't work over night - I would suggest not using other than a Myler on him. Go get a Myler D ring comfort snaffle - that's a level one bit. There's no problem staying in that bit and it's legal for all show uses. But if you wish to build optimum refinement and communication, your goals should be to progress to different bits.

I would finally suggest you go to your Myler dealer and purchase the book and video A Bit Better - the combo runs about $25 and is the best investment you'll make - you learn much about bit mechanics and function as well as how to tell whether the bit you have is likely rig

You can use whatever bit works well on him. I do not believe in such a thing as a "harsh" bit - as long as it's comfortable for the horse to carry in his mouth. Are you a rider that's light with her hands and doesn't yank the horse's face off? Or are you just starting and don't have steady hands yet - maybe use the bridle to balance with? That's what determines what type of bit is used on a horse for me.

Anyway - Typically the higher the port - the harsher the bit is. Typically the longer the shanks - the harsher the bit is. The more bumps and things on the bit - harsher it is (like chain mouth pieces, ports, twisted wire). Also - the narrower the bit is in diameter- TYPICALLY the harsher it is. However, many horses find it easier to have a small thin bit in their mouths versus a giant thing that gags them. I would say definately no larger in diameter than 1/2"...and even that's pretty thick.

Stainless steel is what most bits are made out of and is inexpensive. Copper and sweet iron help the horse salivate and can encourage the horse to be softer and enjoy the bit more.

If you board your horse at a barn - before going out and buying bits (which are easily $50 each) I would ask friends and the owners of the stable if you can try their bits and see if you can find one that you like.

Best Wishes!

Have you ever had any lessons on how to use your seat and legs to control the tempo and lateral movement of your horse's body? Bits are not supposed to function as brakes. Before the bit is engaged at all in a stop, the horse should already be stopping. Many times the bit is never engaged during a stop, but only slightly lifted to bring the horse's shoulders up while he is stopping. Often contact on the bit is released altogether as a cue for stopping. Until you learn how to correctly ride your horse's body, you will continue to ride his mouth. By doing that, his mouth will only become more damaged, and more incapable of being employed as part of your communication with him. Every bit you use on a horse that is being trained that the bit is a set of brakes is being used incorrectly, and is harsh. Whether it is a rubber snaffle or a long shanked curb, you will be abusing the horse's mouth. You and your horse need training on how to control tempo, and on how a bit is intended to function.

What part of this does more training not seem to be important?

The harsher the bit, the more bit you will need until your horse absolutely has no mouth left.

I have seen it, rehabbed a mule that was put in a chain saw bit and had no bit sensation by the time I got him.

You will only increase in harshness unless you deal with the training holes your horse has.

There is never an excuse to go up in bits when a horse has no brakes, its not like whoa comes from the bit factory.

Work with the animal with a professional and get it under control properly and move it up in bits only when its properly trained.

Is that a Myler correction? Correction bits work well, there are different kinds that work on different parts of the mouth. They are made for different levels of how far the horse is trained. I would not call them harsh bits, but they have more control. Here are some sites where you can find them. Hope it helps some.

you may not actually need a harsher bit. I've had two horses now that the more bit I put in the worse they get under saddle. I had one horse that used to run away all the time no matter what we put in his mouth, but after i tried a him a a hackamore he never ran away with me again. you might want to try something like that too.

With my Morgan I used a curb (sometimes called bar) bit. It worked with him. But I ride western, so I don't know if there's an equivalent bit in an English style.

Good luck

Going back to basics and retraining is what you need. I have never heard of a case where that didn't work and a harsher bit did.

Go to the tack store and get a bit with more port and a little bit longer shank. To much shank and he will fling his head alot. Listen to your friends. They might know what they are talking about.

so why are they saying you need a harsher bit?

does he run through it? does he have no brakes?

need more info the give an answer.

thanks