Hubcentric wheel spacer lengths?

Check out http://www.optionimports.com/spacers.html . This link includes a phone number to call to achieve the fitment you need.

With the spacer you've got in the rear now, probably 19mm, you're going from 23mm front and 30mm rear to 55mm front and 40 mm rear, assuming you continue using the "stock" rear spacer. The offset is the distance from the center line of the wheel's width to the actual plane of the wheel's bearing on the hub. Note that you are not running with "the wheels the same" now.

Positive offsets indicate that the bearing plane is outboard of the center line of the wheel; negative offsets mean the plane is inboard (on the brake side) of the wheel's center line. Positive offsets move the wheel closer to the brake and negative ones move it outboard, closer to the wheel well arch of the fender. Diagram this if it's hard to visualize; a picture is worth a thousand words.

The point is to not scrub either the fender arch or the inside of the wheel well when turning full over.

You are changing wheel widths very little. At the same time you're moving to larger diameter wheels (and tires, dependent on the aspect ratio such as 30 or 45 or 50 in the (example) ZR30x17, etc. tire size) and that's not so good in terms of scrubbing. It's the tires, not the wheels that will or will not scrub.

If the width, in millimetres of the tires is no greater than you used on the old wheels, and the aspect ratio is smaller, you might be increasing your chances of scrubbing very little.

However, you are definitely moving all of the wheels inboard, and so you risk scrubbing during turns at the front wheel wells. You need to measure your clearances to the fender arches and to the back walls of the front wells to see just how much closer you'll be.

Check out the diagram on the link; it's helpful. You're making fairly small offset changes; it's the tire diameters that should be your biggest concern

One more thing to consider. You do not want to create a large difference in the outside diameters of the front and real tires. You shouldn't change the aspect ratios of the tires you mount on your new wheels much if at all from the ones you used on your old wheels. Ask the tires guys to help you with this. It's all about the wheel offsets AND the tire widths/aspect ratios.

what your trying to do,,is not really safe,,the part your looking for can be found,,but some aren,t worth buying,,it would be in your best interest to sell the wheel,s,,and find a set that will bolt on,without having to have spacer,s,i seen a bad accident,,once because someone had used wheel spacer,s,,the lug nut,s have a tendency to work loose on them,,be safe,,hope this help,s you.

If you have already purchased the wheels then it might be too late. Spacers shouldnt be used because of added leverage and stress on the studs or in this case I think you have lug bolts. There are correct wheels out there with the right back space and offset, so you dont have this issue. In 10 years of dealing with cars and trucks Ive seen 9 or 10 vehicles loose a wheel while moving. If im correct your vehicle has lug bolts. If you space the wheels, less bolt will be threaded into the hub. If you do space them, get longer bolts. Like I was saying, get the correct fitment and dont rig it. Its dangerous.