Finally getting into reloading now?

Only to add to what Joe mentions: Powder choice depends on bullet selection,with 165 grain you might find H4350 or H414,or other powder gives best performance while at 180 the IMR 4350 might be better. Also, many bullet makers and reloading manuals have a "best accuracy load" or best performing powder suggestion.

You don't need to crimp,neck tension is enough on most non-dangerous game hunting rounds,and bullet manufacturers recommend to not crimp a bullet with no cannelure,or if the cannelure (or what seems to be one) doesn't line up go with your COL length-Barnes and some Hornadys and other bullets have a "mechanical lock" around the bullet-but it isn't a cannelure.

So, I recommend a reloading manual from Hodgdone if you are using the IMR,H, or Winchester powders and then a manual from the bullet maker (Nosler,Barnes,Hornady,Swift,etc) and cross reference the bullet and powder loads-you can do some of that on-line at the company web sites too---and ALWAYS verify any load information.

What you are looking at with reloading is consistent accuracy,not top velocity,so what I do is make set of loads from minimum towards max in steps. For IMR 4350 you have a spread from 66 grains to 71grains (5 grains with 180 grain bullets) so that if you loaded up 4 shots at 0.5 grain steps you would be loading 40 cartridges. Since most velocity doesn't always give best accuracy, you might concentrate on the lower end first,along with the safety of pressure checking. You should see an "hour glass" effect on shots with different loads;going from wide to more narrow then widen again.Then you fine tune that spot where it narrows using 0.2 changes in powder instead of 0.5. So in 60-80 shots you should have a very accurate load,maybe even the first batch at 0.5 sets will get you a best load. My 300 WSM is sub MOA at 64.4 grains of H414 with 165 grain bullets,but opens up if I use 0.3 grains either direction

Biggest thing is to be consistent with your loading.Find the proper COL for your rifle-but don't go overboard on lengths-SOME rifles shoot better with a bit longer than SAMMI standard COL,but it can also lead to over pressures. And get information on signs of over pressure-cratered primers,loose primers,bolt tightness,etc,again as Joe mentions.

1. Certain powders develop maximum pressures at different velocities, so use the one that develops maximum velocity at the lowest pressure.

2. DO NOT crimp bullets without a cannelure, this could damage the bullet.

3. I think IMR-4007 was a good powder, check out http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp for more info.

4. IT IS VITAL to work up from the minimum, your rifle may reach maximum pressures before the test rifle did when they wrote the load manual. If you see pressure signs (sticky bolt, cratered/pierced primers, erratic velocity, etc.) BACK OFF! best accuracy is obtained somewhere before the maximum charge anyway.

Most important: HAVE FUN!

Different variations in reloading procedures and equipment can cause pressures to differ from published data. You should always start at the starting load and work your way up until you start getting excess pressure signs, the groups open up, or you hit the do not exceed loading. Certain powders perform differently in different caliber/bullet combinations. I just started reloading in April. We have been using IMR 4895 for all of our rifle ammo. My son recently got a .308 and the 4895 velocity is not very high in his particular loading, so we just got some BL-C(2) today to try. BL-C(2) and Varget will work in most of our rifle loads. We may try Varget after the BL-C(2). Probably the .308 and .243 loads will matter the most on accuracy and speed.