How best to seal old windows?

Other than the 3M plastic sheeting, the only other option is to attach felt weather-stripping between all sides of the sash and the jam.

That's the way those older windows were weather-proofed.

In addition, you could remove the sash cords and weights, insulate the cavity where the weights were and install plastic track that eliminates the need for the weights.

Both sides of the window are un-insulated where the weights are. Insulating those pockets will help, along with the weather-stripping.

What we have to understand as well if the windows are double-hung or (horizontal) sliders. And if the channels, sill and jam are galvanized steel or aluminum. If channels are bent, chipped or out of line, there will only be further problems and a challenge to provide any real weather seal.

Off hand. Placing plastic sheeting, even plastic wrap over the sill before closing the window works well and can be adjusted and/or removed without much effort. Heavier plastic from different products can be utilized as the large coverings that come with new bed mattresses. Otherwise, one just has to layer the thinner materials until the window just makes a firm close when shut completely.

The old method of folded newspapers may seem outdated but can work for leaks around doors and windows when pushed between frames. The problem again is having to redo this when one has to be opened up.

For drafts one can use thin, cloth felt as you would use the plastics too. It will conform to the ridges of the jam after some use. But may be more difficult to close and lock a window as it take a bit more space than the plastics.

I have even used automotive, door edge guards and shoved them on my own window (casement sliders) frames where the metal flange has such an edge. It provides a great seal and forces the frame to snug up as it closes. This is because the old windows have been either out of square, bent or the metal on the lip have been damaged or removed. They come in both heavy plastic and plastic covered aluminum.

All worth a try, before you go out and buy... replacement windows. $$$$

Lastly, there is a product that claims to be a removable compound made of silicone. After it dries it will peal off without any residue or leaving any adhesive material to worry about. Ask for it at a hardware store if you can't find it in the area of caulking and weather stripping. That is if the window(s) in question do not have to be opened too frequently. Otherwise of course, it has to be replaced each time.

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RE:

How best to seal old windows?

Not doing 3M plastic, NOT doing it. I tried Seal N' Peel, and its very noxious stuff. I cannot leave my kitchen for two days while the smell dissipates. I need another option other than these two. Ideas? The windows are the old wooden weight-suspended types, very leaky. Also, standard caulking...

Repair the window screens if there are any and seal around those with silicone caulk, that way you can still open your windows for fresh air. Bugspray the outside of the window and exterior of the house around the windows to deter them from crawling in. Peppermint essential oil is supposed to repel them and it smells nice so put some of that on your window ledge if you like.

I have the same windows in the living room of my house (built in 1880) AND THE WINDOWS/GLASS IS ORIGINAL! When I moved in, the exterior side of them were professionally caulked. Doesn't do a thing for the utility bill.

I have made "draft dodgers" for the living room. Fabric sewn into a tube-like stocking filled with a liner that hold bean bag stuffing. It's made my life in this wonderful old house much more comfortable

...and God said: Let there be Duct Tape. And it fixed everything and God saw that it was good.