Will firing non corrosive ammo after using corrosive ammo help to remove the salts?

It worked for me.

Just to pick your brain a little....A couple of years ago,maybe a little more, I asked a question about what was fired in a M-38 Mosin Nagant.

You answered. (I think I may have given you best answer)

EDIT:The question; http://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Aq...

(my memory slipped a little.....forgot about the soapy water and a little longer ago..wow)

It was the last few minutes of the last day of a local gun show when I spied a M-38 that a dealer bought within that hour. It was not only dated my birth year, but it was a nice-appearing rifle and priced right on.

When I got home the barrel was so corroded that it looked like hairy things were growing and the bolt had rectangular shaped deposits all about.

After about a 100 passes with a brass brush filled with Simichrome polish it began to take shape. The firing pin was set way too high and the headspace was fair and the bolt did not close on the field gauge so I fired good Prvi Partizan through it and then the bore really started to shape up. After firing enough non-corrosive rounds then I went to using a cloth brush saturated with Simichrome and finished out with recycled paper towels. Now it looks great.

Remember, any surface it will shine at the angle you are confined to in a bore and will appear better than the same surface that is viewed perpendicular. Other than a probe inspection camera can we get that benefit.

So, I will have to give a "yes" due to MY experience.

Personally, I haven't done that much....only mixed a few mags of each type...( just to get rid the corrosive ) I first bought corrosive for my SKS / CZ 858 and it wasn't a problem...just took a long time to clean it. After using the non-corrosive for the first time...and seeing that it cut the cleaning time in half, I never went back...and the price difference wasn't an issue. However, when I used corrosive in the CZ and since the tolerances on that rifle are way closer than the SKS / AK's, it gummed the gun up pretty good. I went to the store and got a bottle of Barnes CR-10 bore cleaner. It is very powerful, has ammonia in it and is not to be left on for more than a minute or two....it will take the hide off a Rhino but it really worked on the gas system and barrel.

I've never thought about it, but I would guess that it would not.

If anything, it would probably just coat those salts with a layer of soot.

EDIT: Bear in mind that I'm mostly guessing... but no amount of shooting ____ through your gun should be a substitute for proper cleaning, in any case. I've heard that shooting FMJ through a gun that has been used with hardcast lead will clean the lead out; even if it does, the gun still needs cleaning.

So clean your gun correctly, and don't count on a bullet screaming down the bore to remove corrosive salts.

I always wondered, but never assume that it would. If what august suggest is true, then maybe shooting non-corrosive first is better.

I've tried the "water" method to dissolve the salts after shooting, but frankly found that just going to work cleaning with liberal amounts of M-Pro 7 does just as well.

Yes it will help remove the corrosive salts, but you will still need to clean with hot water to completely remove them.

Here is the advice offered to me by my gunsmith many years ago......

ALL ammunition is corrosive.....

Thoroughly clean any rifle after you use it.... No matter what the ammo...

No. What I do is I just get some really hot tap water and a turkey baster and just shoot it down the barrel. After about four or five shots I just clean normally.

Yes. Then shoot some windex down the barrel and when you start cleaning it use some ammonia soaked patches; this helps get the fmj copper smearing out.

No, you still have to clean your barrel, preferably with hot water to begin with, to prevent your bore from corroding.