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Ruger GP100 problem?

I've dry fired it and everything works perfectly, but out of the 30 rounds of 130gr .38s the cylinder "locked" up on a few rounds. I couldn't fire it SA or DA. I'd have to open the cylinder, turn it and then close it again.....sometimes it would happen right afterwards. I then noticed it wouldn't do it if I held the gun perfectly horizontal between shots. What could this be? Thanks.

8 Answers

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  • 7 years ago

    Jeff is right on the money. My Security Six will develop a similar problem if you aren't careful with assembly or when the spring gets tired. One nice thing about Ruger: When I called to see if they had the spring and washer that I needed, they sent them to me free of charge. I had them at my door less than a week after calling. I would do a full disassembly cleaning, and see if the helps. Jeff is also right about being careful with the springs. Losing a unique part little spring or washer might not cost money when dealing with Ruger, but it's still not something you really want to deal with.

  • Anonymous
    7 years ago

    Could be any number of things. If it is new, call Ruger, else take it to a gunsmith.

  • ?
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    New or old, Ruger wants a look at it. They're good that way, about maintaining the highest reliability products, whatever it takes.

  • 6 years ago

    This Site Might Help You.

    RE:

    Ruger GP100 problem?

    I've dry fired it and everything works perfectly, but out of the 30 rounds of 130gr .38s the cylinder "locked" up on a few rounds. I couldn't fire it SA or DA. I'd have to open the cylinder, turn it and then close it again.....sometimes it would happen right afterwards. ...

    Source(s): ruger gp100 problem: https://shortly.im/vdUd2
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  • Mr.357
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    Since it is chambered in .357 Mag, I can't imagine a .38 Special being too long to pass any kind of QC. One other thing, is the front of the cylinder clean? Is it dragging on the barrel/forcing cone? I had a DW in .22 lr and set the cylinder gap at .002" instead of the .006" specified. After about 4 cylinders full, I have to wipe the front of the cylinder. I wouldn't do that on a revolver for SD, but I was trying to get the .22 lr velocities to approach that of a striped a&& ape.

  • ?
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    Look at all your ammo.....be sure it is all the same length. Could some of it be too long?

    Other than that- call Ruger.

  • Jeff
    Lv 7
    7 years ago

    There is a spring up in the crane assembly... that little guy is prone to rust and or breakage... when it goes you get symptoms like your speaking off.

    you tube has one of several vids showing how to take a Ruger apart. Midway probably has the spring in stock.

    happy hunting

    Source(s): Short of two small punches, two large paperclips will work. There's a hole in the crane with a spring mounted plunger. You push that in and then push the pin out. Be careful, because there are a couple of tiny springs in there you don't want to go flying. Particularly, the spring on the forward crane latch. Make sure that once you get the pin started, you hold your finger over the latch. Let the tension out slowly and pay attention to how it goes back together. It's not hard to do, but you have to be careful not to let the spings take flight. The rest of the cylinder will come apart after that. The ejector star will still be attached and under pressure, but you don't want to mess with that. In fact, unless there is a reason to take the crane assembly apart, I wouldn't do it and I know how. Just spray some "Scrubber" in there to clean out any grit and then soak it down with RemOil and let drip dry.
  • JOHN B
    Lv 6
    7 years ago

    One possible cause is the cartidges are sliding out of the chamber and catching on the frame.

    Causes could be a loose chamber or bad brass. Next time look between the cylinder and frame and mark the one that's hanging up.

    An easy temporary fix would be to put a thin film of grease in the chambers to hold the brass

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