Help with my car AC please?

Receiver-dryer and accumulator have nothing to do with smell.

A car with a receiver doesn't have an accumulator. A car with an accumulator doesn't have a receiver.

WHY do you have a brand new compressor?

"we took the dash apart"??!! Why did you do that?

"The pressures were all fine when we filled up the freon"??

R-134a is not Freon but that's beside the point.

First, something is wrong with your duct system.

Next, who changed the compressor, and WHY?? Did you add oil to the system? Did you evacuate the system before you recharged it? Were there any detectable leaks (while holding vacuum)?

You seem to have a lot of loose ends, because you don't understand refrigeration (that's what a/c is, a refrigeration system).

I don't know if you have a vacuum operated control system or an electronic servo system, but you MUST fix that. There may be a coolant shutoff valve that stops the heater core from being hot, and your control system is not working properly. The duct system MUST work!

If you didn't replace the dryer when you replaced the compressor, replace the dryer. Also check or replace the expansion valve or orifice tube. If you have dual climate control one of the actuators is bad. I had a chevy that done that, would blow hot air. Except I could just shut the truck off and restart it and it would be nice and cold. Check the level of freon with a real a/c gauge. Not that suicide junk.

We checked the blend doors inside the dash, they seem to be working properly.

I think that is your problem. If it isn't sealed correctly, the heat will blow by it.

It sounds like a blend door/mode door issue...common issue on newer vehicles or with dual zone setups. If the right side vents only blow hot air, then the hotter air is also mixing with the cold air inside the HVAC system which is why the rest of the vents only blow slightly cool air. Had the same issue on a similar vehicle and resetting the system worked on that case. You can try to reset the system by turning the HVAC controls fully off and turn off the truck...then restart the truck and then set controls to MAX AC ....the HVAC system will go through a series of self tests and then normally resume proper operation. Try the controls in all positions and temp ranges and see if it works better. Or remove the fuse for the HVAC system ...wait several minutes and then reinstall fuse...start truck and see if the controls/vents work as they should and AC airflow blows colder.

If that doesn't work, then you may need a shop or dealer with a DRB III scan tool to check for any HVAC system trouble codes and test the system mode/blend doors for proper operation.The HVAC system has multiple mode doors inside the ductwork operated by electrical actuators controlled by the HVAC dash controls to direct the flow of air to the various vents based on the control settings and also a blend door for the flow of air through or bypassing the heater core which mixes or blends the air flow from the heater core and AC evaporator core which controls the HVAC output air temperature from the vents. Another mode door directs airflow into the system from outside the vehicle or uses interior air in recirculate mode or vent mode.

So it sounds like the mode/blend doors for the dual zone system that directs air flow to the right side may have a bad actuator or other issue...broken linkage, stuck door, bad control switch, etc..or the main blend door is not fully closing off air flow from the heater core. Some owners in hotter climates just install a shutoff /bypass valve in the heater hoses to completely stop the flow of coolant to the heater core which then allows the AC system to blow colder air. I've done that on a few vehicles when it was too costly to fix the HVAC system blend door issue. Apparently a lot of Durango owners had this issue and may require the dash to be removed to get at some of the actuators or doors inside the ductwork. A shutoff/bypass valve installed in the heater hoses is a simpler solution for some.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t129545-is_good_ai...

For best AC output on very hot days, you should use the recirculate mode so that you're not try to cool hotter exterior air once the system has run for a while after first starting. Open the windows or doors for a bit if it's been sitting in the sun to allow the very hot interior air to escape.

Have it checked by an AC technician. You can't smell if an AC is charged or not. You could try a simple recharge.

Do the tests shown in this post to find out what's wrong.

Refill with proper refrigeration coolant. Sometimes the actual liquid coolant in the system agent needs to be refilled or replaced.

Check if the compressor is engaging when the AC is on. Check if the condenser fan is turning when the AC is on. Check the high side and low side pressures with a manifold gauge when the AC is on, blower at half-max and the windows open. Troubleshoot from the results.

If the air is colder than the surrounding air, it may be time to buy a new vehicle.

Check your cabin air filter, usually located under the glovebox or behind the firewall. Make sure its clean.

Make sure freon reads correct pressure

Check the condenser coil behind the dash, it's the metal coil that hot air passes through to cool down. If its clogged or dirty on 1 side that could explain lack of cold air, or give you warm air instead of cold.

You could also check the evaporator coil, it's the metal coil in the front of your car that the giant fan blows into (not the radiator)

If none of the above a mechanic will need to check the system output, and possibly the components like the orifice tube, dryer/accumulator depends on what car you have.

You definantly have a buildup/blockage somewhere