?

By which I mean recognizeable audio. If, for example, you were to take a stereo, and dismantle the speaker, so that only the speaker coil was left, would the coil in a microphone still pick up whatever the stereo was playing? I get that decent dynamic mic is pretty well shielded, but what about a cheap condenser mic like in a dictaphone? I don't think those have coils though, but would it work if the "speaker" were relatively close?

I have several 5 watt IR leds, and plan to make an IR illuminator for night shooting. I also have some of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596-Constant-Current... constant current/voltage modules. For power, I was thinking of using 2 18650 cells in series, as I have the batteries and holders lying around. The voltage, then, is around 8 volts, give or take a little. The forward voltage of the LED is 1.4 - 1.7, but does that mean setting the voltage output of the module to that? At that setting, the current potentiometer does very little, and around 600ma seems to be the best I can get. The module is claimed to have a maximum of 3000ma. Is it simply unable to produce more current as I'm at the bottom end of the (7v - 35v) range? I'm pretty sure I've seen a Youtube video of these LEDs being driven by these modules. The only difference being that the ones I have have a third potentiometer, which I believe is to set the threshold at which it switches to trickle charging, when used to charge lithium batteries. It's possible that the module comes out of the factory without that pot ever being set. There is an LED indicator, but since there's no datasheet anywhere that I can find, I don't know if the LED being off indicates that this trickle charge feature is active or inactive.

I'm trying to de-clutter my living space. I have a bunch of DVDs - about half are movies, and half are other data, usually with two copies of each if it's important - I was thinking about transferring it all to USB thumb drives, since they are pretty cheap now. Or, I could use external hard drives, but that seems less cost effective for a given capacity for some reason. What's the difference in terms of reliability/failure rate? Another option I considered, is to get a HDD docking station, and use internal type drives instead, since they are cheaper, and are the same thing, minus the case...I think?

I pay for the internet subscription, but I'm not the person who pays the phone bill. Obviously, fibre broadband requires replacing the entire line, but as far as I know, it doesn't mean replacing your actual phones, so they must therefore install a converter in your house, to convert it to a regular, electrically transmitted phone signal? So..with that in mind, surely I can have my broadband-only deal changed to fibre, without affecting the phone service. The only reason I can think of that it would not be possible, would be a financial one. IE: the providers want you using THEIR internet and phone services and see it as an opportunity to make you get both with the same provider. Currently, my boradband is Talktalk, and I believe the phone line is BT.

My current version of Windows is somewhat less than legit. I have Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit, and, even though it was apparently updateable, I never trust that claim about pirate copies, so it's never been updated.

Personally, I think Windows is bloatware at best, and I have a linux/windows dual-boot. But I haven't gotten around to learning Linux yet.

I would really have to kick my own backside if I forked over the price of Windows. I see even Windows 7 is still being sold for far, FAR more than it's worth.

Looking into it, I see I can just buy a product key. Is it possible to use a legit product key to activate a non-legit copy if I reinstall it?

In fact, I hear that, if you buy a product key, you can download the software for free. That makes no sense to me, since the key alone is so much cheaper than the software.

What about OEM copies?

I have a full size MIDI keyboard, and recently got rid of an electric piano to save space. I can still practice on the MIDI keyboard, but I hate having to power up my PC every time, and be locked to it. Is there anything like a self contained sound module with a built in speaker? All the ones I've seen have no speaker, and also have way more features than I need. The PC does all that stuff now. All I want is something I can plug into the keyboard and get something resembling piano sounds out. Surely someone has invented a simple little box that can stop a MIDI keyboard from being a totally useless device without a bunch of supporting equipment...Or do the people making these things really want us all to buy 2 keyboards off them?

Okay, so I have my OS on an SSD, and all other programs on a 250gb HDD. I was going to use another HDD for storing files, but it kept suddenly spinning down. I ordered a 1Tb replacement (I only make short videos and try to edit "in camera"( Annnyways, I ealised that the problime with the third drive was fixed simply by using a better quality SATA cable. So, now I have a 120GB SSD with my operating system on it. (And whatever junk I can't prevent from being written there, and possibly a few programs, too) a 250gb drive with my programs on (plus a load of files), an empty, but now working 250 GB HDD, and an empty 1TB HDD.

Sooo...I'm thinking of leaving the OS on the SSD., Leaving the other programs on the first HDD, Using the 1TB HDD for raw footage and the files I'm working with, and using the remaining 250GB HDD for rendering animations and videos to.

Is that the best arrangement here? (My PSU has plenty of headroom) I imagine that there's a performance advantage, in that heads aren't jumping around trying to read and write data at the same time, but that's just what seems to make sense to me. For all I know there's a serparate "read" and "write" head.

About 3 years ago,I was planning a round the world trip. I had no trouble getting a visa for Australia, despite a criminal record. I just had to write a brief explanation. (Burglary of a non-dwelling (supermarket))

I decided against including the US in the trip as I was informed that I'd have to attend an interview at the US embassy in London, and that I might have to wait quite a while for a decision.

If I still have the letter I got regarding this, can I just arrange the interview without going back to the start of the process? It's been so long, I don't even remember what it involved. Or did I have a time limit during which I needed to arrange the interview or start the process over?

My police certificate says "No live trace", so I could have neglected to mention a criminal record, had I known that. If I should apply again, is it likely that I'd get away with just saying I have no criminal record, since I actually don't? If it's not ON record, it's not A record.

Has anyone attended one of these interviews? What do they entail? And how long, approximately, after the interview, did you receive your visa?

I couldn't sleep the other night, so I learned to read Arabic instead. I speak it, but never got around to learning to read it. Anyway...I was looking on Google maps earlier and noticed, when reading the names of towns and cities in Egypt that there were none of the marks representing the short vowels. Is this merely a limitation of a computer font? Or are they usually left out? If so, are there rules to determine the missing vowel based on the surrounding consonants? Or -- and I'm hoping this isn't the case -- are people taught to read and write with them in place at first, but then they are dropped and the student must rely on recognizing the word to fill in the missing vowels?

I never really thought about it before. It's an old internal USB 2.0 and firewire card, and it has a socket for the old type of power connectors. But it always worked okay without plugging anything into that. Is it only for a different type of slot that doesn't provide power?

Also, plugging something in to the USB ports on it, causes the message to pop up...the one about how the device could perform faster if you plugged it in to a USB 2.0 socket. Huh? It IS USB 2.0. The card has been in several PC's over the last 10 years or so and I always got that message on certain devices. The first motherboard it was on only supported USB 1.0, but the rest have been 2.0 or 3.0. I'm starting to think that I should plug some power into it, though I really don't see why that should make a difference. Plus, I don't want to risk damaging it as I still have a few cameras with DV output.

Okay, so I was looking for a cheap camera I can use underwater and not worry too much about trashing, I saw the 2014 "entry level" gopro Hero, and it looked Ideal for the purpose.

I Saw one on Ebay in an auction and was the winning bidder - not surprisingly.

Turns out, this is a standard definition model, with a full-size SD slot and it uses aaa batteries.

Now...how can there be models so drastically inferior to "entry level". It's misleading. I see quite a few people are taking advantage of this on Ebay with very vague listings selling old SD gopros to people who think they are getting the 2014 model. And they are not breaking any of Ebays rules, so there is nothing you can do. For some reason, GoPro have "reset" the name "Hero", and are re-using it.

So...other than the 35mm original, is this more or less correct:

First there was the Hero. In standard definition. Then there was the hero 2 and possibly hero 3. THEN there was the HD hero and HD hero 2, 3 etc. Then the naming convention was re-set and they re-used the name "hero" by itself for the current HD entry level model and re-used Hero 2, and 3 only without the "HD" designation, and with various colours used as the different models within each model. THEN we got "plus" versions of those numbered models.

So, what's to stop people from listing their old SD "hero" on Ebay as simply a GoPro Hero, (Since that's the name) and letting people think they are getting the current model which uses exactly the same name?

I've ordered gifts for family in the US before. I just used a retailer (maybe even Amazon...don't remember) in the US and put the recipients delivery address. It saved shipping items across the Atlantic. I've also ordered alcohol and had it shipped within the UK.

BUT Can I order a bottle of Scotch from within the US for delivery to a US address? I don't even know if you can do that if you live there, but maybe it all becomes different when you live overseas. After all, alcohol ain't a cashmere scarf. If it's all legal, where is the best place to order a nice Scotch whiskey for delivery to Washington state? Specifically, Seattle.

I just got a letter from the DWP saying I may have had more than £6000 in my bank at some time while I was claiming benefits. I MAY have. I don't know. I know I was out of work for a while with a lot of money in the bank, but I never even signed on during that time, let alone claimed any benefits.

They say they got this information from the HMRC based on interest paid to me. Now, I KNOW I've been earning money off Youtube the whole time, and always assumed the tax was taken out automatically (Anyone know if it is?)

So, if it turns out that I was claiming benefits at a time I had over £6000, what am I likely to have to pay back? And when did it become £6000? All their literature says it's £16,000

Also, if the HMRC are aware of the amount that's been in the bank, why have they not sent anything asking for the tax? This has just led me to believe the tax on the Youtube earnings is taxed automatically.

The letter says I have 14 days to provide the information, but I doubt my bank could print it out in that time. It says that, if I need more time, to contact them on . The dot, I assume is their phone number, so...this looks like an automatic letter that nobody has ever bothered to write the number on. I have no idea about all this stuff, so...anyone know more about all this?

I have a shell in my shed, (Just the projectile part) I found in the gutter when I was a kid. It's a 75mm shell, if I remember right. It's shaped like a rifle bullet. It's about 10 inches long. The bottom part is steel, the top part looks like aluminium, but has a plastic-like feel to it, so I assume it's supposed to deform and set off some explosive. OR, it's just a model. The bottom part has the remains of blue paint on it, which I assume means it was either used as a door-stop, or the color is to signify either what type of shell it is, or whether it's live or not.

I did a couple of weeks work through an agency a few weeks ago. Today, I get a text from them asking me to send "copy of passport/proof of NI/Birth certificate" via email for upcoming audit. And "please secure more work", whatever the Hell they mean by THAT. So...who's getting audited here? Me or them? I doubt the IRS would notify them before me if I were getting audited. And, since I've been paid in full and they owe me nothing, why should I go out of my way for these people? (I hate employment agencies. They take a cut of my hard work and do nothing in return). Are there any negative consequences in store for me if I ignore them and block their number? I have no intention of ever using them again, and if I ever contact them again, it will be to ask them to remove me from their books. They were the shadiest agency I've worked through yet.

Yes, I get that the chances of those numbers being drawn are the same as any other combination, but surely anyone smart enough to know that is also smart enough to know that, if you DO win, you will have to share the prize with the hundreds of other people who play those numbers. The only reason I can think of is they get a thrill from putting on a knowing look and telling people who ask why they play those numbers, that those numbers are as likely as any others. Is it really worth the money just to occasionally feel smug while looking like a fool?

I want to set up an account on a site anonymously and hide my IP. Ive tried proxies but they never work. Most are unable to connect beyond the sign-up page. The one or two that could...well then I can't sign into my Email to verify it because I get asked for a mobile number I'm just not going to provide. A load of the proxies I tried, I got a message when I tried to finish the signup, saying only one account per person, so I guess someone has already used that one to set up an account?

And if I use no proxy to verify the sign-up, the site must recognise the IP it received the verification from and the account is banned. (Yes, I'm trying to get around a ban! No, that is not immoral or evil) I've tried loads of proxies from sites that list free proxies. About half a re just ads for paid proxies and take you to the signup page. I guess I can set up an email account that doesn't freak out every time and ask the length of my d1ck every time I log in from a different IP, but that still means I have to find a proxy that can get beyond the signup page. Oh, and what's with all the check-boxes at the top?

My friend Leanne is a bit afraid of muggers and thieves and keeps her money in the aforementioned location. This usually takes the form of coins, as she works in McDonalds and doesn't have much money. Hence the fear of thieves.

Anyway, I was concerned that this may cause infection, but I'm aware that copper is highly toxic to bacteria. Should she change all the coins for copper ones. Would 200 pennies be more hygienic than a single £2 coin?