mooneyjess

I say it will not, but my friend insists that it will.

I have had my car going on seven years and up until the other day my windshield was in perfect condition. I was driving along on a four lane highway (going about 65mph) and I noticed there was one of those double gravel trucks driving relatively slowly in the right lane. I wanted to get around it to avoid a stone chip to the windshield. Ironically when I was passing it, I heard one stone hit my windshield. Then about two seconds later another stone, this happened another two times (for a total of four stones). It was very annoying.

So, I pulled over and assessed the damage. There was one stone pit (not chip or crack) in the middle of the windshield closer to the driver’s side (so I see it while driving now). There are three other ones all scattered on the passenger side. They about 2mm in diameter. The one on the driver’s side has this black speck in it, it looks like a bug hit the windshield.

I took it to an auto glass place and they are not deep enough to get filled. So my only option if I was to get this fixed is to get a new windshield.

The marks on the passenger side do not bug me, it is more the one in the middle.

I have a Chevy Cruze with the 5x105 bolt pattern. Is it okay to put my 215/65 R15 tires on a 15x6 black steel rim.

At the start of November, I completely remove the battery from the car, and attach it to the Deltran Battery Tender Plus. I leave it that way to the start of May. The car goes into storage for the winter, I take it out so it will not freeze and go flat.

I noticed that this year (and a little bit last year) there is a brown colored liquid leaking from it (I can tell it is brown since it is on a white table). It is a very tiny amount, but it will accumulate over time (after a month and a half the brown stain will be about 3 inches in diameter). I think it is coming from the top, I am just wondering if this is the result of leaving the battery tender connected. It is still doing it a bit even when disconnected. The battery tender brings it to a floating amount of about 13.2 volts. When disconnected for a few days it stays around 12.8 volts.

Also just a side note, the battery was bought new in May of 2016. It is a Car Quest brand battery. The previous battery was a genuine Ford and lasted 12 years. I went with Car Quest battery not to save money, because the Ford one is hard to come by being an older car (they take a month to come in). My dealership currently has one Ford one in stock and I am debating on buying it despite the fact I will not be using it until May.

I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze LTZ with 38,000 miles on it. I am the original owner and so far I have had these issues with it.

1) Blind spot detection module on both sides replaced not once but twice (this is my personal fav).

2) Water Pump replaced

3) Right Axel Seal

4) Trunk Latch Button

5) Oil Pan gasket leaking (my ’94 Mustang has never had gaskets replaced, does not leak)

6) Door handle unlock button (on the outside)

7) Passenger side window regulator loose

8) Rear brake pads @ 30,000 miles

9) Rear brake seized up, plus brakes were rusted so I needed all new brakes plus rotors @ 34,000 miles

(yes 4000 miles later).

10) Yesterday I got a “service theft deterrent system”, which completely locked the car up.

The five year powertrain warranty is up in February. Should I dump this car? I was thinking about a Mazda 3 or Mazda CX-5, are they more reliable?

Thanks for you advice.

I have a 2013 Cruze LTZ. I have noticed for the past few months every so often there is a drip of oil on the driveway about 2 inches in diameter. Anyways I looked under it with a flash light and I can see some oil has spread. I took it in to get looked at and they said that it was a ‘slow seep from the oil pan gasket’. However, they did not advise getting it repaired, just keep an eye on the oil level.

Is this something that I should be worried about, is this something that could turn bad really fast? Or is this the type of thing that will take years before it is an issue? Also anyone know approximately how much it would cost to get this fixed (they charge $100 per hour)?

Thanks for your time and advice it is greatly appreciated!

A few months ago, when I went to turn the vents on in my car, it would only go into defrost. The reason why this happened is because the vacuum line had broken right at the end of the connector. The inner diameter of the vacuum line is only about 1 mm thin, so it uses the connector on the end to make the diameter larger so it fits on the vacuum tree. I put some heat shrink tubing over it and it did seem to fix the issue for a few months, but now it is acting up again.

Since my car is a ’94, they no longer make that exact vacuum line (it is only about two feet long). My only option at this point is to get a new line with a quarter inch inner diameter so it will fit into place. Is it okay to replace the line that had a 1 mm inner diameter to one that has a quarter inch inner diameter.

Thanks for your help, it is very much appreciated.

I have a ’94 Mustang V6 convertible, the AC has never had anything added to it since the factory. Two years ago, it started to blow warm air. I brought it into an independent shop last summer and this is what they wanted to do with it;

Labor = $55.20

New A/C Accumulator (RD 7211SC) = $46.25

Labor = $55.20

A/C Orifice Tube (T38639) = $2.50

Labor = $128.80

R-134a, 26 Ounces = $65.00

Refrigerant Oil = $19.53

AC Sealant / Dye / Lubricant / Conditioner = $59.74

Clean AC Condenser = $40.33

Total = $472.55 (I would imagine this would be at least $500 now since this was from last summer)

Ideally, I would like to just recharge it myself, to at least see if that works. The only problem now is that the compressor is no longer engaging (it was last summer). I am assuming it is because of the low-pressure switch. After doing research I have conflicting information. Some say that I need to hot wire this switch, others say that once there is enough refrigerant it will start running. The pressure from the can itself will be sufficient. What do I do.

Thanks for your help in advance.

First off, my car is a 1994 Mustang, so I imagine that they did not make frames as strong back then.

I had to jack the front end of the car up (I used jack stands to hold it into place). I placed the jack stands on the jack mounting points (as said in the manual).

Anyways, I noticed that the gap on the door got a little bit larger (about half an inch). It still opened and closed fine. When I put the car back down the door gap went back to normal, and it is a perfectly straight gap.

Thanks for your help.

I have been on eBay for 13 years now, it seems back then people used to leave feedback more. I both buy and sell. From what I have read as a seller I should not request feedback. What about as a buyer.

I have bought four items in the past 60 days and only 50 percent have left feedback. Also, I pay instantly when buying something.

So my question is, what is the best way as a buyer to request feedback. I have already given them feedback more then a month ago, and there is only 60 days allowed.

I am new to Linux, and I have spent hours searching for some form of documentation on how to install VNC server.

Is there a document or a video out there that exists, that shows how to install a VNC server on Linux mint from a clean installation. I have gone through about 15 different tutorials, and they all seem to be missing steps, or 'assume', you should know how to do the missing steps.

One tutorial I ran through for example I ended up with 'There are no enabled repos'. The tutorial mentioned nothing about this, or what to do here. I am looking for something with complete steps, and assuming the user knows nothing about Linux.

Thanks

I have two options (I am running on a extreme budget), either the built in Windows 10 Defender or use my existing Norton Internet Security Protection.

Just a background here, I am running word press through IIS. The machine is an eleven year old Dell Dimension 3100 (Pentium 4 HT@ 3GHz and 4GB of Ram). It seems that Windows Defender uses far less resources than Norton, that is the main reason here.

But ultimately for a web server running IIS with port 80 open am I 'safer' using Norton instead. I only have port 80 open on the router (I read that is the first line of defense).

I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze and I was driving last night and the Side Blind Zone Alert kept turning off and on the passenger side. Then eventually I got the dreaded “Service Side Detection System”. When I turned the car off it still stayed lit-up on the passenger side.

Now for the backstory, this happened in December of 2014 they replaced part 22971842. One month later in January of 2015 the same thing happened again. They replaced that month-old part again. I brought it in for service today and got a phone call back and that same part needs to be replaced again. This is costing me 621 dollars this time.

I have only put on about 9000 miles since it was changed two years ago. So, is this normal for a part like this to have such a short life? My friend has a 2013 Nissan and they are still on the original module, and they have many more miles on their car.

When I got my winter tires put on last year (black steel rims), they replaced the capped lug nuts with no capped nuts (I do not know if I am using the right terminology). Than in the spring when they put the regular alloy rims back on the switched back to the capped nuts.

Why is this a concern or relevant? The exposed end of the bolts were getting rusty, as well as the rims themselves. I know this is an extremely unpopular decision, but I was going to put OEM wheel covers on and they attach to the bolts.

So what is my question? Is it normal practice to switch the capped lug nut with a non-capped one for steel rims? Also I do not have a security nut.

I have a 2013 Cruze, and the brakes have been very squeaky. The brakes were service about 4000 miles ago, and the rear pads were replaced (that was just over a year ago). I have noticed a huge buildup of rust on the edge of the rotors. The rear pad on the driver’s side that was replaced just over a year ago looks like it is dry rotting (I already asked about a warranty with no success). Also these are genuine OEM parts. It turns out that brake had seized and was overheating.

Long story short they have to replace everything, rotors and pads. This is going to cost about $1400 (I live in Canada everything is more expensive here, I know in the States this would probably only cost $700 at the most)!

The thing I do not get, is that my 1994 Ford Mustang had its brakes replaced about six years ago, and it has had about the same mileage since then. When I look at its rotors they still look very good (only a very little layer of rust on the edges. Are Ford brakes better than GM brakes?

Unfortunately, I live in a winter climate (lots of salt). Is there a way to prevent this so I do not need to replace the brakes once every three years or 35,000 miles? For example, in the winter should I drive the car at least once a day? Should I always keep it in the garage?

Thanks for your time