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I have an old laptop with a bad memory card that is (I think) identical to this:

https://www.servers4less.com/memory/laptop/kingsto...

I am confused by a lot of terminology that seems to differentiate these cards in various small ways.  This is often reflected in the naming conventions and numbering of these cards, like one letter changed in the middle or a letter appended onto the end of a number for some cards and not others.

I understand the importance and difference in the amount of memory.  4G, 8G, etc.

I also understand the form factor, i.e., if it will physically fit into the slot.  In this case there are many choices that would fit.

But what about all that other stuff?  SODIMM, Bus type, error correction, etc.  Does it matter?

I only want my computer to function.  I don't need blazing speed.  I just need it to boot up and work, and only for a couple of months before I "retire" it forever.  And I don't want to spend a ton of money.

Will ANY card that fits in the slot accomplish this?

Are there cards that look right but some feature or aspect will make them completely unusable?

I hope it's clear what I'm asking, and what I really need from this question.

Thank you!

Last week, the lead attorney representing Donald Trump's election fraud cases said that their "case," that is, the legal team's claim of election fraud, was bogus and that "no reasonable person would believe it."

Restating, Trump's legal team, the people most familiar with any and all evidence of election fraud, admitted that their claim of fraud was a lie and that no reasonable person would believe their arguments.

Basically, Trump's lead attorney called out every Trump supporter who believes the election was rigged as "unreasonable," or incapable of understanding that what they were asked to try to prove in court wasn't even true and the legal team (and probably Trump himself) knew it.

If you believed the election was stolen, or rigged, or invalid in some way, do you still believe it?

If so, why?  On what basis?

Don't ask me why, but I'm on a mission to remember a TV commercial that was on a lot in (I think?) the 1980s (in the USA).

Here's the part I remember, though my memory might be faulty because if it was really how I remember it, it would not be hard to find with a search, but I can't find it.

In part of the ad, a kind-of-sleazy "car-salesman type" character who is supposed to represent the hypothetical competitor that you should avoid says:

"You want fast?  Bada bing!"  (or something like that)

I *guess* the ad might have been for some company who does things fast, and not just make false promises that they will, like courier services, pizza delivery, etc.  But I'm not sure.

The commercial ran more than 20 years ago, maybe 30.

I'm sorry, that's all I remember.  Anyone else remember it?  Anyone know the product?  Anyone have a link to the actual commercial?  

Thank you!

On my patio there is a small recessed area where a small permanent brick structure used to stand.  The structure is now gone, and where it stood is a rectangle, approximately 6 ft x 3 ft.  The depth is about 2-3 inches and the lower surface appears to be the same cement as the patio around it.

I want to fill in this area so the whole patio is level.  This is probably an easy job but I prefer to hire someone to do it.

Whether it's a concrete contractor or a general handyman, about how much should this job cost?

Having "cut the cord(s)" in my twentysomething year-old house, there are a lot of  phone lines and coax running between rooms and throughout the house that are not used and not connected to anything.

Is there any way to use these for anything?  Are there products on the market for this?  I'm thinking intercoms, music systems, lighting, wi-fi extenders, security systems, smart-anythings, etc., that traditionally would not use phone line or coax.

It's all there.  Lines are terminated, jacks in place, it seems like they could be put back into use somehow.

I'm sure I'm not the first one to have thought of this.  Any ideas or comments or links to existing information?

As of the end of January 2021, about 439,000 people died of COVID-19 in the United States (more or less the time period when Donald Trump was president).

Obviously, some of those deaths were unavoidable.  After all, it is a deadly and highly contagious disease.

But if you had to put a number on it, how many of those 439k deaths were avoidable?  In other words, how many of that number DID NOT HAVE to die, or died UNNECESSARILY because of Donald Trump's failed policies and neglect?

Will he continue to be a major force and a factor in Republican politics?

Will he run for office again (assuming he's not prohibited from doing so)?

Will he regain stardom as a TV figure, talk show host, or something similar?

Will he just fade from the limelight, as friends and supporters turn their backs and distance themselves?

Will he end up in jail?

Will he still be alive a year from now?

The SCU Lightning Complex Fire of 2020 was a very large wildfire in California started by lightning on 18 Aug 2020 and was fully CONTAINED on 1 Oct 2020.  

This information is easy to find from multiple sources.

What I would like to know is not when it was "contained," but on what date that fire was FULLY CONTROLLED, that is to say, COMPLETELY EXTINGUISHED?

I imagine that could have been weeks or even months after 100% containment.  But that's what I am trying to find out.

Anyone know?

And if so, how/where did you locate the information?

Thank you!

I have a 1-yr old (approx) laptop with a failed mainboard but a good NVMe hard drive.  Never mind for now anything about warranties or repairs, because that is not my question right now.

My questions are these:

1. If I had another somewhat similarly spec'd laptop (but not identical) of the same brand, and it also had an NVMe hard drive, could I swap it with mine and expect upon startup to behave just as my old one did before the mainboard broke?  (Assuming it did not break because of what's on the hard drive, which is unlikely anyway.)

2. Same question, but what if the "another computer" was similar but a different brand?

3. Assuming the answer to at least one of the above is yes, could I accomplish the same thing (at least as a test) by putting the drive in an NVMe enclosure, plugging it into a USB port, and "telling" the new computer not to use its own hard drive at all, but just run as though the drive from the broken computer (now connected by USB) is the one and only hard drive known to it?

 3a. If that should work, can someone give some instructions about how to do that?

Thank you!!

Seeking opinions on this concerning noise.

Background:

2010 Acura TL, 90k miles. Pretty consistently serviced, at least not neglected. I'm the original owner. The car's been great--not a bit of trouble in ten years.

Now the noise as best I can describe it.

It sounds vaguely like something is rubbing on something. Not metal on metal or anything that obvious. It may not be anything rubbing at all, but that's the best way to describe the noise.

The noise is not constant, but it's not exactly intermittent either. It's kind of on again-off again in very short cycles, but it's not regular or rhythmic.

It's coming (I think) from the engine compartment, and with the hood up and the car idling it is very easy to hear, but oddly I cannot tell exactly where the sound comes from. It's everywhere and nowhere.

The sound can be quite bad when I first start the car. After it's been going for awhile the noise lessens and eventually goes away. If the car is warm the noise won't come back after a short stop.

The noise isn't affected by turning the wheel or using the brake. Because I am driving, I don't know for sure whether it is affected by my speed.

Engine oil is full and clean.

Nothing obviously broken or leaking.

Car drives normally.

Here's a video. It's not superb, but maybe good enough. Clearest examples are around :50, 1:07, and :28.

I made the video a week or two ago. The sound is a little worse now. 

Weather is cold but not freezing.

youtu.be/UPnakPqKnSA

Thanks!

Chrome saves my passwords to certain sites when I log in to them.

Now my laptop died, but the hard drive is still good and I've put it into a USB enclosure.

I haven't replaced the computer (yet), but I need some of those passwords now.

I can read the drive, but that's about all I can do right now.

So the questions are:

What is the name of file/folder where Chrome keeps the saved login passwords?

Even with that information, will that file be human-readable?

Thanks!

I have an old (2011) Panasonic Smart Viera Plasma TV.  It works great, fabulous picture, decent sound, etc.  But we're about to move it to another room where it won't be connected to any Firesticks or Chromecasts or Rokus, just the internet.

This TV has its own built-in app "store," but there's nothing worthwhile in there.  (In the Movies and Videos section there is something called "The Autism Channel" and a handful of foreign language choices and that's literally it.  It seriously almost looks like a prank.)

There's no Amazon Video, no Netflix, no Youtube, no network "go" channels, no nothing.  In fact, some of the apps that used to be there, including a couple I actually installed, have disappeared, so the pitiful choices are even worse than before.

What I want to know is, can I download and install apps and use them through the TV's standard app interface which are NOT found in the Viera Market app "store"?

I'm imagining a setting that allows downloading of unauthorized software and then an app which can download other apps, or something like that.

Is this possible?  Anyone have any ideas?  BTW, I am in the United States.

I live in California, and I'm considering dealerships in other states for a new vehicle purchase.  There seems to be a lot of special and complicated rules for doing this.  I understand the smog/emissions requirements that are unique to out-of-state vehicles being registered in California, but there seems to be a lot more than that.

If you live in California and have actually done this, could you please help clear the clutter?  What exactly is involved?

(If you're wondering, the trim level and color combination I want is very hard to find around here, but quite common in other parts of the country for some reason.)

Bits I remember...maybe you excellent movie buffs can help me figure them out.

1. I saw about 10 minutes of this--I *think* near the end.  I think the female lead is well-known but I don't recall who or why I think that.  In the part I saw, a suburban soccer mom is angry at her son's coach for something pretty ordinary.  Wouldn't put him in the game or something.  So she murders him right on the field.  Or maybe it's a fantasy or a dream...not clear...maybe it's not meant to be. Kind of surreal.  Seems semi-comedic but not funny.  Clearly more of it would have to be seen to be understood.  What the heck was this movie?

2. I remember seeing this one in a hotel room 20 years ago, and the movie wasn't new even then.  I think the part I saw was towards the beginning.  A Southern California cop goes for a massage somewhere in the San Fernando Valley.  The massage lady transitions to what's going to be a Happy Ending but the cop suddenly jumps up and leaves.  He is exasperated, and says something like it would be okay in LA, but NOT IN THE VALLEY!  He appears to want to make it his mission to clean up stuff like this in the suburbs of LA.

Doesn't seem like a lot to go on, but can anyone Name.....Those.....Movies?

I am going to have an attic fan installed on my roof for my garage.  The space is easily accessible (much easier than an attic), and access to existing electrical infrastructure is trivial.  All aspects of the install, including the fan itself, are covered as part of a larger project, EXCEPT hooking up the electrical by a certified electrician post-install, which I must arrange and pay for myself.  With just this description, and with full knowledge that a lot of things could affect the final cost, my question is simply, HOW MUCH SHOULD A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN CHARGE TO HOOK UP A JUST-INSTALLED GARAGE (ATTIC) FAN?  

Ranges are okay, approximations are okay, ballparks are okay, educated guesses are okay, and in case it makes a material difference, I live in an area of the US where the costs for these kinds of things tend to run a little higher than average.

In my house, I have a door that opens into a room up to 180 degrees. Frequently, I like to leave the door part way open, with the ability to open it further, close it, or just let it be.  What I want is roughly similar to a detent on a car door.

The reason I need this is because the door doesn't always stay in position when open. Sometimes it becomes unbalanced on a seasonal basis. Other times the breeze from an open window will move it.

One solution is a hypothetical device which can be placed on the floor upon which a door can be swung over and will "catch" in a slot, and then easily moved off the device again with a simple push on the door in either direction.

I don't want to have to reach down and touch the device all the time.  I want to "set it and forget it," unless I want the "catch point" to be in a different spot.

I drew a picture of what I think the device would look like. Very light, very portable. Kind of like a rubber door stop but not really.

Does such a thing exist? If it can be bought, I'd like a link to the item, or its name, or some way to find it.

I'm no inventor. I just want to buy one.

Since Yahoo won't allow me to include the drawing, you can see it here:

https://youtu.be/0aWhL917ET4

Thank You!

I have a Verizon Wireless account with four lines (four phone numbers) together on the account.  It is the type of account which Vz calls Small/Medium/Large, etc.  I understand that for $5 per month per line, I can extend my unlimited calling to Canada and Mexico (when placed from the United States).

What is not completely clear is this:

I want to do this for just one line.  From only one of the phones on my account do I need this capability.

If I sign up, will my bill increase by 5 dollars each month?  Or will it increase by 20 dollars, because I have four lines and will be forced to pay $5 per month *per line* (and the service extended to all four lines)?

Hypothetical question meant to help me understand the process:

Let's say that every single day, my body's natural calorie burning combined with the calories I burn with exercise is exactly equal to the number of calories I take in and that this same number of calories taken in and also burned off remains exactly the same day after day after day.

Obviously, my weight would remain constant under this scenario.

Now let's say that on one particular day, I burn 350 calories less than all the other days and also on that same day I eat 350 more calories than usual too.

So on this one fateful day I took in 700 more calories than I burned off.

The next day I immediately go back to the previous pattern of equal calories eaten and burned and continue on that way.

I know that using the well-established number of 3500 calories=1 pound, I should gain exactly two-tenths of a pound under this overall scenario.

Now here's the question:  WHEN would I actually gain that weight?  At which point would a scale show that 0.2 lbs increase?  That day?  The next day?  Later than that?

In California, when you buy a new car, the dealership collects DMV registration fees, including use tax, so when you drive away the car is already registered in your name (or will be soon since the paperwork has been submitted).

When you buy a used car from a private party, you have to go register your purchase with the DMV (and pay the use tax and other fees) yourself.

My question is, how does it work when you buy a USED car from a DEALERSHIP?