DR. DWENGER

From enitial start everything works fine. After it starts to warm up it starts to slip. I can here a ticking noise (sounds like someone threw a handful of ball bearing in the torque converter) from where the torque converter is. Would the torque converter just be bad or is the tranny shot? Also, i check the fluid and its dark red with lots of bubbles on the dip stick. Can't get an good reading on the dip stick look over full with all the bubble on it.

Looking to pull the bearings out and replace them instead of buying a whole new clutch

Just want to know if they are a direct swap or do i have to take parts off the suburban tranny to make the one from the blazer work in it.

I'm trying to find a piece that is missing between the lower slave cylinder line to the line that runs to either the master cylinder or clutch master cylinder. Someone else took this apart and I'm not familiar with fords or manual trans.

I've tried doing the passlock relearn procedure( turn key on for 10 min. Turn of for 30 sec... repeat 3x) anyhow, still only cranks. Tried a different ignition cylinder and did the same procedure and still won't fire. I can hear the fuel pump starting up. I was able to get it to run a couple times, but only for a couple seconds. Thus, the reason I was guessing the passlock.

I have tried to relearn the Passlock with the 10min procedure and all i can get it to do is turn over. The engine will fire and run for about 3 seconds, but then it stops. I try again and and it just cranks the engine over. I can hear the fuel pump kick in when the key is turned on. But, im going to get a fuel tester... does anyone know if they work and how much pressure should i have in the system? Thanks in advance!

It will only stay lit if I hold the valve in on the sunflower. They do sell replacement parts at Mills Fleet Farm. Just wondering if the parts they have, are the parts I need. Thanks in advance!

Runs great for about 25-30 minutes but once it get warmed up step on the gas and wants to kill. Almost like its not getting gas. Its not overheating. Once it gets cooled down again it does same s***. Grrrr

I can push the buttons to blow high and the blower sounds like its blowing the air fast but it barely comes out. What could this be? Thanks

I bought this truck was told that it will run great for about a half hour but, then if you try to go somewhere from there it will stall out and And get this " the drive shaft locks up" wtf does this means. Im pretty mechanically incline but, have no clue what would cause this. Is the tranny shot? Temp doesn't show its overheating.

I replace the crank sensor on the back side of the motor now i wanna try the cam sensor. Motor will run for about 20 seconds then kill. And then it will fire but will not stay running.

It just stopped running when i was going down the hwy one day. Let sit for a day started right up and drove 5 miles and quit. I did put a new fuel pump in and filter. Now it just cranks, but will not fire. I will check for spark friday. Someone told me it may be the ignition module... fun fun fun.

This just died one day driving down the road. Service engine light came on. oil light and temp. Let sit for a day and it started right up. And drove about 5 miles down the road and died again. There is plenty of fuel pressure so i don't think its the pump. There is spark. Motor cranks over and ran a bit just to get it in the shed but seemed like it wasn't getting any gas. Now it just cranks over. Motor ran just great before this happened.

Just put a new inducer motor on and the A/C works, but now this. How do i fix this. Thanks