Evan

Lately I’ve noticed my f150 rpm kind of surges every 40 seconds or so. Every 40 seconds the rpm will lower from 700 to around 600 for about 10 seconds or so and then go back up to 700. After taking a closer look I noticed when I turned off the ac it would stop so I turned it back on and watched the compressor while it was running, I noticed that every time the rpms dropped the clutch would stop spinning at the same time, then when the clutch would kick back on the rpms went back up. When it stops spinning and lowers rpm I also hear what sounds like a bad or dry bearing. Is the compressor bad or is it something simpler that I can check for? Really hoping it’s not the compressor as a new one from Ford is almost $400. What kind of things can I check?

I’ve asked this a few times before but since it’s still not fixed I thought I’d give some updated info. I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4 3v (newer version with brown coil boots) for a while now it’s been running rough at idle with high fuel pressure, high rpms, and positive fuel trims on both banks. Mostly happens when I’ve been idling in park for a while but when I put it in gear it smooths out but as soon as I put it back in park it runs rough again. If i put it in gear and drive it around a bit and put in park again it’s smooth until 10 or so minutes later it’ll start running rough again. The fuel pressure should be around 35psi but it goes up to 70psi and the fuel trims go to around 10 on each bank. Gets horrible mileage (about 10mpg instead of the 15 or so I used to get), Rpms at idle when smooth is around 600 but when it’s rough it’s about 800. Plugs, coils, fuel filter, air filter all new, cleaned injectors and replaced the o-rings, MAF sensor is fine, no vacuum leaks, no codes or check engine light, vvt is fine. Any idea what it could be? I don’t have the money for a professional. only other things I can think of is the fuel pump, fuel pressure control module, or pcv but my truck doesn’t have a normal pcv like other vehicles, it’s built into the valve cover and is not a maintenance item and from what I heard is just a mesh screen. It hasn’t been rough enough to feel like it wants to stall or has a dead cylinder or anything but it does have a very noticeable vibration.

I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.5ft bed and was wondering if anyone knew the weight capacity of the bed rails. I made a lumber rack that attaches to the tops of the bed rails and plan on putting a lot of lumber and steel on top of it, maybe up to 1000-1500lbs. I know the payload is about 1600lbs but I just want to make sure the bed rails can handle that kind of weight, especially with some lateral force since I’m planning on making a sort of crane that attaches to the rack and swivels to pick up heavy items like logs and engines and put them in the bed. Most of the items would likely be under 1000lbs. Would it be able to handle it? If not what’s the limit

I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4 3v (newer version with brown coil boots) for a while now it’s been running rough at idle with high fuel pressure, high rpms, and positive fuel trims on both banks. Mostly happens when I’ve been idling in park for a while but when I put it in gear it smooths out but as soon as I put it back in park it runs rough again. If i put it in gear and drive it around a bit and put in park again it’s smooth until 10 or so minutes later it’ll start running rough again. Sometimes when I’m cruising down the road and it’s in overdrive, I’ll lightly press the gas just enough to raise rpms without it downshifting it will feel like it misfires almost as if it has a bad coil but all 8 are pretty new. The fuel pressure should be around 35psi but it goes up to 70psi and the fuel trims go to around 10 on each bank. Rpms at idle when smooth is around 600 but when it’s rough it’s about 800. Plugs, coils, fuel filter, air filter are all new, just cleaned injectors and replaced the o-rings, clean the MAF sensor several times and it seems to be working right, no vacuum leaks, no codes or check engine light. Any idea what it could be? Trying to avoid taking it to a mechanic as I don’t have the money to be up sold anything. The only other things I can think of is vvt, fuel pump and fuel pressure control module. It hasn’t been rough enough to feel like it wants to stall or has a dead cylinder or anything but it does have a very noticeable vibration.

I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4l 3v and lately I’ve noticed at idle it has a lot of vibration. So I checked the fuel pressure which should be around 35psi at idle but it was almost 70psi. When I accelerate or raise rpm it drops down a little in psi and stops vibrating so much. I would think it’d be the fuel pressure control module but while it does it a lot it only does it maybe 80% of the time when I drive. Also the fuel trims appear to be running a little rich according to my scanner if that helps anything. I also only get around 10mpg instead of the 15 I used to get and it seems to accelerate a little slower. Honestly looking for any suggestions that would be easier than a fuel pump since I can’t afford to take it into a shop so I’d be doing it myself and I’ll do the pump if I have to but I’d rather make sure it’s not something else first, I’ve already replaced the fuel filter recently and ran deadpan through the system a few times.

I have a husqvarna yth2148, recently replace the motion drive belt that runs to the transmission. I had to unplug the electric clutch to it to put the belt on and now with everything together and plugged in, it wont move at all in forward or reverse. I checked and it seems the belt isn’t moving at all. Could the connector for the clutch be bad and not working right after undoing it? Another question, when I put the belt on it was incredibly tight but after I tried to drive the mower it seemed to loosen quite a bit, it’s still on the pulleys but for whatever reason it’s not as tight.

My home ac hasn’t been getting very cool lately especially on hot days (almost 100°F outside). Normal 95°F days the ac usually gets to around 73 but that’s pushing it. Noticed water around the inside unit so I’m wondering if the refrigerant levels are low, it’s r22 and I’ve read online that the low side should be around 60-70psi but the sticker on the outdoor unit says low is 144psi and high is 278psi. Can anyone give me an idea of which one I should go with. I’d hire a professional but I can’t afford to be upsold a whole new ac system just because the Freon is low

I recently bought 2 husqvarna yard tractors, The guy I bought them from said they’d sat for about a year and at least half of that was outside uncovered in Florida so you know it’s gotten it’s fair share of rain and storms, one is a yth2448 and the other is a yth2148, both have Briggs and Stratton intek v twin motors, both had rats nests on the right head behind the fuel pump, after cleaning those off I sprayed fuel in the intake and verified they both run but the fuel is not getting from the tank to the carb or even the fuel filter on either mower, I’ve since replaced the fuel pumps but it’s still not working, ruled out gas cap and fuel lines aren’t plugged (was able to run compressed air through) the only thing I’m not sure about is the vacuum line from the valve cover to the fuel pump, it doesn’t have any cracks or anything in it but when I crank the engine instead of having vacuum, it blows out air. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to or not but if it is supposed to blow instead of make vacuum, how much air should I blow out because it doesn’t have much pressure to it. Any ideas? I’m at a loss of what would be wrong and causing this to BOTH mowers.

I’m planning on building a 6x12 or 6x14 dual axle trailer for hauling logs and other heavy things, nothing over 10k total trailer weight. Planning on using some 6x2 tube for the outer frame and tongue and 2x2 tube or some c channel for the crossmembers of the frame and was wondering what wall thickness I should use. I’m trynna cut down on the cost and weight but I’m worried .120 would be too thin. I feel that .250 would be overkill for only 10k and would be a lot more expensive. I’ve seen some 14k trailers that are made of 5/16 thick angle but I’m not sure if .120 tube is stronger or weaker. Any thoughts?

I recently got a new welder, it’s a titanium unlimited 200 which for stick welding is rated for 200a but when I turn the knob it only goes to 170. It’s running on an extension cord that’s about 100ft but I checked the voltage at the welder end and it still says 240v. I know it should be able to do 200a cause all the charts on it with the recommended amps for each electrode go that high and some go to 210a and even the duty cycle is rated at 200a. What could be limiting it, is there something I’m doing wrong? I’m gonna be doing a build soon with some 5/32 7018 on some pretty heavy walled steel and could use the extra amps

I’m planning on building a 6x12 dual axle trailer for hauling logs and other heavy things, nothing over 10k total trailer weight. Planning on using some 4x2 tube for the outer frame and tongue and 2x2 tube for the crossmembers of the frame and was wondering what wall thickness I should use. I’m trynna cut down on the cost and weight but I’m worried .120 would be too thin. I feel that .250 would be overkill for only 10k and would be a lot more expensive. Any thoughts?

I’ve been getting misfires on cylinder 4 lately so I pulled the plug to see if it was good and to get enough room for my tools I disconnected and moved the pcm out of the way but when I put everything back together I go into the mode 6 data on my scanner to see the misfire counter but it doesn’t collect any data. It scans for data but everything comes back incomplete. Will it start working again on its own after driving it for a bit or do I need to do something? I kinda need it to see if i fixed the misfire

I have a 2008 f150 with a 5.4l 3v and ever since I bought it I’ve noticed it’s a little sluggish and also has worse mpg than it should (about 10 instead of 15) which could be unrelated. I’ve replaced plugs, coils, fuel filter, air filter, oil, o2 sensors, and catalytic converters. The 0-60 is about 14 seconds flooring it. I used my scanner to see if there was anything obvious. No codes no dash lights.

Barometric pressure -  consistent 100kpa

Fuel rail pressure - 39psi at idle 40-50psi driving

Mass airflow rate - 1-1.2lb/min

Throttle position - 89% when pedal to the floor

I’m sure the throttle position is a problem but I can’t see why the difference would make it this slow

I just bought a 12 gauge shotgun at my local farmers market and The only writing on it is a serial number on the receiver and some branding on the barrel. The only writing on the receiver says 1438 and I’m assuming that’s the serial number. The only writing on the barrel says “ marlin firearms co new haven, conn. 12 gauge 2 3/4 mod” and a stamp that says JM. I tried looking it up online and the only marlin model I’m seeing that’s close is the model 120 but it has a different receiver and parts inside are shaped different. Any ideas what it is? Where could I go to find out what it is

I’m a Florida resident and am going to be visiting North Carolina soon and was wondering if a non resident of North Carolina can purchase a rifle or shotgun.

I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5L 4 cylinder that’s been “professionally” replaced a while ago, and ever since it was replaced I’ve had a problem with the battery dying when it’s parked for a few weeks. I’m not 100% sure if it’s the problem but I know it’s not helping but when I took a look I found the main ground was connected to the battery but the end of the main ground is just dangling around in the engine bay. Does anyone know where it’s supposed to mount? I can’t find any obvious spots

So there’s this girl I used to have a massive crush on like I was almost obsessed with her every since 1st grade when I met her up until maybe 9th grade ( I’m out of school now so it’s been about 6 years since I last saw her in person ) Pretty sure she liked me too for a while. We were best friends and even her mom loved me. We would get each other random presents like every other week. We had every class together from 1st to 5th grade. We’d always sit with each other at lunch and in every class and if we couldn’t we’d still try and talk from where ever we were and hangout everywhere else. When we got into middle school we didn’t talk much cause we went to different schools, but in 7th grade she got transferred to my school and I tried to talk to her more but it was just kinda awkward and I never knew what to say. By the time I worked up the courage to ask her out she said she had a bf. So I pretty much gave up. Fast forward a few years later and I find out she’s gay now. Couple more years and I haven’t thought about her since until just last night but only for a second. That night I had a dream about her, I was in class and she showed up out of nowhere and sat next to me, few minutes go by before she says “ is there anything you want to say for closure “ and I say no which is true cause I’ve never lied to her even once or done anything to hurt her. Then for the rest of the dream it was just us hanging out and a bunch of random stuff I can’t remember. What does that mean.

I’m planning on making a few small boxes out of a chunk of maple burl I’ve had for a while, the live edge part still has its bark and has a bit of moss on it too. Is there a way to seal the bark so when I pour the resin it doesn’t soak in and make too many bubbles? I wanna keep the bark and moss, i was thinking of brushing on a thin coat of epoxy to seal it but I’m worried that’s gonna either brush off the moss or flatten it on the bark. Any ideas

What’s the normal maf rate for a 2008 f150 5.4 v8. I’m getting about 1lb/min at 650rpm idle, 3.1-4.5lb/min at 1200rpm and the highest I’ve gotten is 4.9-5.4lb/min at 1700rpm. I’ve cleaned the sensor several times but I don’t have readings from before cleaning so idk if it did anything. And I don’t know if it makes a difference but I have some pretty bad exhaust leaks around the catalytic converters and through out the rest of the exhaust