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99 chevy blazer, rebuilt engine, oil leaking...what could it be?

I just had my 99 chevy blazer's engine rebuilt about 1 month ago. i need the tensioner replaced,doing that tomorrow so right now its noisy. when i got the truck back, everything was fine for a day or two but started to notice very small quarter size oil puddles under truck. took back and oil gasket was replaced. 2 weeks later and new gasket, still leaking and the amount is getting bigger (softball size puddle) so far i've lost about 1/2 quart of oil. i check oil when its hot and cold every day to monitor level. oil leaking at first under hood and dropping on the ground right in the middle now i noticed seems to be dripping from drivers side under hood. oil pressure seems to be ok, runs @ about 40 while driving and drops at idle sometimes before first line on guage. was told that oil will break down faster on a rebuilt engine and at first was clear and now is coffee colored, gone about 650 miles since gotten the truck back from mechanic after rebuilt. what could be causing oil leak?

Update:

taking back to mechanic tomorrow to get tensioner belt replaced and get an oil change and mechanic wants to replace gasket with a higher priced one. he says if that doesnt solve the prob he is taking back to the machine shop who rebuilt it. what would happen then? also when i accelerate, i hear a rattling noise near the passengers side under the hood. i dont think it could be a gas issue i'm using chevron techron fuel cleanser with every tank as directed by mechanic. only when i accelerate and it stops once i get to the desired speed...

Update 2:

been under the truck and is dripping down from the very middle, i dont know what its called but seems to be a part of the chassis, its in the middle though and it collects there and drips off from directly under the engine

Update 3:

so far i've spent $3000 on rebuilding and other parts so taking it to another mechanic is out the window right now. I appreciate EVERYONE'S input on this THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!

11 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    There's no real way to tell with out looking at it. Sounds like you need a better place to get your work done to me though.

    If you had to take it back once already, and so far it has not been repaired correctly, they maybe trying to patch up the leak rather than repair it correctly.

    For example if the oil pan gasket has been installed poorly, they may be trying to just tightening it rather than replacing it.

    I don't really want to knock somebody with out knowing for sure. It is possible to make mistakes, I know I have at times. But being an auto mechanic myself, I do know that there are plenty of others that do not take such pride in their work as they should.

    You may want to take your vehicle to another shop just for a second opinion on what the leak may be, or be more inquisitive by taking the vehicle back to the place it was worked on - ask what they are finding out, and what is needed to remedy the problem.

    If they are truly a good shop, they should be truthful, and not give you a run around...

  • 1 decade ago

    The oil could be leaking from anywhere. You need to get under the truck and see where it is dripping out. Once you see where it is coming from, take it back to the mechanic who rebuilt it and tell him to fix it. You did get a warranty, I hope? If you know where the oil is coming from he won't be able to BS you about it.

    Edit 1

    Replacing a gasket with a higher priced one? If it was put in right to start with it wouldn't be leaking.

    Edit 2

    Oil won't leak from the chassis. It is dripping onto the chassis from somewhere up above.

    Edit 3

    Fuel cleaner won't keep your engine from rattling. If the machine shop shaved your heads or did something else to increase the compression ratio, you may need to run with a higher octane.

  • Stoner
    Lv 5
    1 decade ago

    Honestly I would not take my ride back to the same **** stick who couldn't do the job correct the first time. The Tensioner will only run you about 40 bucks (I bought one for a 96 s-10 blazer). it's very simple to replace and will take about 15 minutes to do, Sounds like the machine shop and/or the mechanic did not replace a plug or used too much silicone. That is a repair HE NEEDS TO FIX,since he peformed the repair. You already know this.

    I know shops can be busy, but it should take about 3 days roughly to do. But I have seen and done it in a day. If you have any more problems call the Better business bearu and report said business.

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    Dave is right! A gasket properly installed shoud not leak. A problem I had with my Blazer was the oil coolant line. It is a high pressure line and can;t be repaired,it must be replaced. Cost is about $200

    Source(s): GM emp and avid backyard mech but let the dealership fix this one cause we were having lousy weather
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  • 1 decade ago

    who ever rebuilt the engine is responsible for what they under warranty. If it`s leaking in the middle of the engine where it bolts to the transmission , it is the rear main or oil pan gasket. If either is incorrectly prepped or incorrectly installed it will leak. which falls under warranty work. When it comes to your rattle noise get a soft face hammer and hit your catalytic converter at the clamps and see if you can get it to rattle.

  • 1 decade ago

    it sounds like a rear main seal leaking on it,basically they might not have did their job good enough,because a new rebuilt engine should not leak any oil ,id take it back ,and tell them i didn't want it back until it was right this time,they may have to use a sleeve on the rear main seal if it was wore some they,ll never get it to stop without sleeve it,but make sure they fix it right this time,good luck with it.

    Source(s): been a certified mechanic for 37 yrs.
  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    it sounds like a rear main seal leaking on it,basically they might not have did their job good enough,because a new rebuilt engine should not leak any oil ,id take it back ,and tell them i didn't want it back until it was right this time,they may have to use a sleeve on the rear main seal if it was wore some they,ll never get it to stop without sleeve it,but make sure they fix it right this time,and dont forget to change your air and fuel filters too,good luck with it.

    Source(s): been a certified mechanic for 37 yrs,telling other users to change their air and fuel filters for over a year.
  • 1 decade ago

    easy way to tell wher ethe leak is put a big piece of card board under the vehicle. then with a flashlight see if you can see where it is coming from. but just being rebuilt the mechanic is liable. there should be no aditional cost to you . if he tries to. get a lawyer.

  • 1 decade ago

    Make the mechanic check it. It may be a bad rear main seal, if not put incarefully they tend to leak.

  • Anonymous
    1 decade ago

    valve cover gasket or the oil pump. try steam cleaning the engine and try and notice the area which first gets dirty. try just tightening the valve covers first...as the gaskets may be just fine...if they are there. no silicone, use real gaskets.

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