AC unit is running but indoor blower fan keeps turning off and on?

This could be a thermostat issue or a fan motor issue. That fan motor is controlled by a fan relay on a fan control board. If that winding is overheating, you can tell easy enough. Find the fan control board. (about the size of a playing card) pull the black wire off and find the blue wire from the fan and plug it in its place. Now see if the fan stops and starts. if it does, its the fan control board. If it doesn't its the fan motor.

Hope that troubleshooting helps

The poster above is confused. 120v fans are only in gas fired furnaces. Air conditioning fan blowers are 230v

This is a question not an answer. On a long run the A/C compressor (outdoor unit) continues to run, however the blower motor on the inside unit stops.

Replaced:

Run Capacitor

Circuit Board

Thermostat

Blower Motor

I think I covered everything that has been discussed here but I still have the same issue.

Today the indoor temp was 74. I set the t-stat to 68. Unit ran for about 2 1/2 hours and it was 71 in the house but the blower motor had stopped and the compressor was still running. I shut the unit off. If I leave it off for a time and restart it it starts up and as long as it is cycling to 2 degrees of the set point it is fine. Other than that anything that will cause a long run results in the blower motor stopping and the compressor still running.

Indoor Blower Motor

It is some sort of cut-off either related to temperature, a bad motor or a bad relay on the control circuit board that overheats and opens. If you have experience with high voltage circuit analysis and testing, you can follow the diagnosis thread below, else, please stop and call an experienced, honest tech to fix this issue.

Assuming experience with 120V, you can diagnose this a bit further by checking for the presence of 120V on the blower motor terminals at the circuit board when the motor is in its OFF state. Look for the terminal marked "Cool" and it should have the Black wire from the blower (high speed) or the Yellow wire (medium high) connected to the Cool terminal.

If there is 120V present at the terminal and the fan is OFF, then your problem is not the circuit board. Now you have to determine if it is the motor or a temperature cut-off at the motor or the capacitor somehow shutting off the motor. To diagnose further, you will need to remove the motor along with the blower wheel as a single unit (two screws hold it in the furnace cage) and test further and repair accordingly.

If 120V is not present when the fan is OFF, then you have a circuit board issue. To diagnose further, disconnect the blower fan connections and trace back on the board till you find the fault, often repaired by a relay replacement. But that requires testing with a live circuit.

Use extreme caution - you are working with 120V. if you are not experienced and comfortable with these voltages, please call a tech.

my guess would be a relay or control board problem. If motor was getting hot it would take more than two minutes to cool off. Jump out green and red on control low voltage wires by furnace. If it persist then if would rule out the stat. If in furnace you can hard wire the blower to get you through till you get it fixed but you have to know what you are doing or you may burn up the motor. Better to just turn everything off and wait for tech as not to damage any thing else.

Your blower motor is overheating and the bearings may be ceized if this keeps occuring, the way to tell would be to check the motor inside the furnace and see if its hot to touch, if so the blower motor will have to be replaced.

Sounds like a short in the fan motor

It could have a defective heat sensor on the motor. It could also be a defective circuit board on the AC unit. You need to find an honest serviceman.

ac indoor circuit board in problem plz cheak the tech and enjoy.