James S

I have a shorted out Transistor and the markings are a fancy looking F which I assume its a Fairchild or Farnell.

Its either a 0037 or D037

Then below that it says MPS

Then below that A06.

Its for a Coleman Evcon Lower control board for a blend air deluxe attic vent fan.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/zdzkp.uzwmt/v/vspfiles/ph... this is what it looks like. It has 3 of them on Q1, Q5, Q3. The 4th one is marked as 2n3906.

I got a 2004 Ford Escape XLT 3.0 DOHC that will not even crank over.

Pulled out the starter relay and jumper it and the engine turns over and it will not turn over with the key. But does not start with the key left on.

Scan tool can't communicate with the ECU/computer.

No Fuel Pump Relay click or noise from fuel pump unless it was jumper with wire on the fuel pump relay socket.

Theft light comes on when the key is turned and goes off when left on for a few seconds.

Check for corrosion on the harness as specified by a TSB I found online. One is under the battery tray and the other on the driver side kick panel.

Swapped PCM relay with a cooling fan relay which has the same part number.

All fuses look fine even the high amp one under the hood.

I am stumped on whats wrong.

My nephew has a nice Chrysler LHS 1996 with a v6 3.5L. It has 172,656 miles on it.

It drove perfectly until 2 days ago. What happened was he was going 35MPH and all of a sudden the RPM's shot up like someone put the car in neutral and if you let up on the gas the car will lock into 2nd gear which I know is Limp home Mode.

It stays in that mode until I reset the ECM with my OBD II reader. There was no trouble codes listed before resetting.

I took it for a drive after resetting the ECM. It does shift from 1st to 2nd gear around 25 MPH then when you hit 35 MPH it will do the run away RPM like it was put into neutral and then it will lock into 2nd gear limp home mode. You can't go beyond 35MPH unless I race the engine beyond 4K rpms.

Still no codes from my OBD II meter. No check engine light also. All fuses are good.

I read online about the input and output speed sensors. But I assume the output speed sensor is ok because the speedometer reads without cutting out. Then I read that the shift solenoids might be bad or the TCM is bad. Or the transmission needs rebuilt. The fluid is full and it looks good to me. I did not add any fluid and I know not to use Dexron or Mercon fluids only ATF +3 or +4 if it needed it.

So I am a little bit stumped since its a computer controlled transmission. What do you people think it is?

I just replaced the old counter top electric range with a new one. Here is the problem the house was built before the grounding codes took affect. The old wiring that comes out of the wall for the electric range has 3 wires RED, Black, White, I know the Red and Black are HOT and the white is neutral. The new range has RED and Black and Green only. I read back in the day they used the neutral as a ground. Would it be safe to connect the ground from the stove to the neutral wire and connect that neutral wire to the ground bar in the breaker panel and color them green to indicate that the white wire was reassign to ground? Since the stove does not have a neutral wire I thought it would make sense to use the white wire as ground and color it green or would that violate code or is it grand-fathered in?

Replacing the wire is out of question since its not my house. The wife would complain about it. The husband does not want to spend the money for the new wire or have a professional come out to run the new wire.

Other than the grounding issue the stove top works great. But its not totally safe yet without the ground.

Whoever installed the original counter top did a half *** job there was no wire nuts. The wire was just twisted together and held with electrical tape that crumbled when it was removed. The junction box had no cover on it also.

Ford Explorer 1997 with a 4.0L v6 with a 5R55E transmission 4WD. It lost reverse but all the other gears work just fine. It has braking in 1st low gear.

I read on the internet that if the 1st low gear does not work the Reverse/Low band is busted or bad servo rings but the 1st gear works normally so I assume the band is intact and the servo is fine.. Could this have possibly blown a valve body gasket?

I was looking to buy a pair of working EV horns for my stereo. I was trying to find some specs on these horns. To know they are capable of.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Electro-Voice-EV-speak...

I could not find anything on the manufacturer's website about these as EV-4. If I am right I seen these mounted in a console type stereo. I know they can't handle a lot of power from the size of the magnet alone I would assume 5 to 10 watts should be safe. I would prefer the 1824M drivers with HD8 but too pricey for me at the moment.

I have replaced the Coil, ignition module, Cap Rotor, Wires and plugs. The coil had a crack and was burned.

I noticed that the check engine Light does not come on when the key is turned and also the battery light does not come on also.

I tried diagnostic mode on the ECM and I got no response from Check engine light.

I swapped a EFI relay that matched with a cooling fan relay and nothing changed. There is a second EFI relay that is different from the others. I have not been able to swap one in with the other EFI relay. Its the one thats toward to the firewall for the relay.

I was going to replace the ECM but the salvage yards are closed right now.

I heard the MAIN EFI relay is known to go out on this car and also the coil but the coil is replaced. Could the Shorted out coil fried the ECM by getting zapped with current leakage?

And is the Oddball EFI relay that in the relay box the MAIN EFI relay?

I did a DTC test on it and its a code 41.Check engine light is always on. From what I know this Car has a GM 3.3L v6 but there is no Camshaft position sensor.. I know the 3800 engines are known to lose their cam magnet. But Does this Engine have a Camshaft position sensor on it with the Magnet on the Cam Sproket?

All I know it was very hard to start and I know it does have Crankshaft position Sensor.

I got the DTC codes that are 38 and 41... I know 41 is for Camshaft sensor or Camshaft Ciruit is faulty.. And I don't Know what 38 is and the two possibility answers are.. Brake Switch Low or Twighlight Sensor Low. Which one is it. I know the Brake lights work just fine. But the twilight seems to be working but the headlights did come on while it was still daylight outside. Where do I start with this... And Does the DTC 38 Turn on the CEL?

Here is my problem I was surfing the net and found that my speed suddenly dropped. And when playing games my ping was at 900ms. I checked my cable modem diagnosis. And my forward path used to be 705Mhz and now its at 117Mhz

the SNR is at 34.8dBS the RSS is around 6.3dbmv 256QAM

and the Return path is 25Mhz which is the norm. But the power level is at 56.5dbmv

And today my digital cable box quit working just a few hours ago and the internet has been acting up for the last few days..

I have checked the splitters and they are ok I replaced them and even ran straight to the main line with the same problems.

what would cause this?

I recently got Auto insurance thru Progressive on March 23. And They were supposed to withdraw the money directly from the bank according to the agent. I already have my insurance card saying I have it for 6 months starting from March 23 to September 23. But they have not taken any money at all. And I haven't gotten any notices about not them not getting any payments.

Has anyone else had trouble with progressive Insurance?

I have spent 3 hrs trying to remove the CV half shaft on the passenger side. I have remove the spindle hub nut and spindle assembly and have the outter end out But there is a support bearing with 3 12MM bolts. I have those remove and the Half Shaft is stuck. What is the secret to removing this shaft. Midas told me to use an Air chisel on the support bearing to remove it. I have sprayed WD-40 on it too. I have done other Cv shafts before but this one is the pits.

I need to know the size of the Torx bolt holding the Tension Pully arm to the alternator and power steering bracket. Im replacing the water pump due to failure.

I have replaced the carburator with a remanufactured one. It the same exact one. The car runs great when warm to hot and its perfectly driveable. But when it first started in the morning it will have a slight miss when put into gear and it stalls too. and I have checked the timing. its about 35 to 40 degrees BTDC this is without jumpering the A B terminals for retreaving codes. the pulley mark is not even close to the scale. It says 20 degrees BTDC for the chart on the hood. I have replaced all the vaccum lines and the car does stall when I cover the Carb with my hand over it so there is no vaccum leak.

I have tried adjusting the mixture screws 1 1/2 turns out from its seating point. And 3 turns and 3 3/8 turns. still no change.

The carburator is Quadrajet with 2 eletrical connections. 4 barrel on a v8 307. It has new wires and Plugs, cap and rotor they worked just fine until the new carb was installed. it also had terrible gas mileage with the old carburator.

I have a 1984 Oldsmobile with a V8 307 engine with a Quadrajet 4 barrel carb.. I just replaced the carb with a new one since the old carb was spewing gas out of the float vents. The car ran perfectly before this happened. But ever since the old one went bad and I put the replacement carb on it the engine runs rough. The directions say every adjustment is on factory settings. but I had to increase the idle and slightly adjust the Idle Mixture screws. I want to know where would the optium setting would be at. I heard its 4 1/2 turns after bottom out the idle mixture screws for a start. But how many turns is the factory Setting. I also checked the timing and the its off quite a bit the mark is pretty much in the 12 o'clock positition when it should be at 20 BTDC. which in my estimate its 10 to 15 Degrees off. the distributor was never touched when it was running fine or after the carb was replaced.

I have a 1990 Grand Prix with a 3.1 v6 engine. I have been taking care of it I changed the oil, antifreeze, I changed its spark plugs 1 1/2 years ago with autolite platium plugs. Sometimes When I drive it for about 12 miles when the engine is at operating temp it starts to make a knocking noise. I noticed this when the plug were 3 months old.The noise will go away when you rev it up alittle. it also comes and goes. The engine does not use oil and its full. Im just wondering if the autolite platium plugs are causing this and also the transmission has a hard Reverse when warm it makes a clunk noise only in reverse. Drive and other gears don't do this. This is a 4 speed hydramatic. Was there a spring upgrade for this? I know its way overdue for a transmission fluid change and will do it when its warm outside.

I have a 1993 ford taurus with a 3.8L v6 engine. And the problem im having is that when you start the car sometimes it takes the start 3 to 5 seconds for starter to start cranking when holding the key in the start position. I have had the battery replaced since the old one was bad. But its not doing it as much. it has a used starter on it since the orignal one went out 9 months ago.

I have a 1996 buick skylark with the 2.4L twincam 4 cylinder. It has cracked its head at cylinder number 3 and its running horrible. My question is.... Can I put in a 3.1 or 3100 v6 engine since the car is made to handle both 2.4L and the 3.1 for the optional motor. I know the ECM needs to be replace and the Wiring for the motor to ecm and emission control systems. I just need to know if the transmission it has will mount and work with the 3.1. And the difficulty of doing this job for the wiring and installing,,