2006 Ford Five Hundred Brake Question?

I'm assuming that you are referring to your BACK brakes in your question, because those Five Hundred/Freestyle models are quite common to wear those ones out fairly early. First off, on this particular vehicle, you DO NOT use a C-clamp to compress the rear brake caliper pistons. They TURN back, in order to bring the caliper pistons back into the caliper bodies fully. On the LEFT/REAR caliper, you turn the piston CLOCKWISE, and compress piston simultaneously, to return the piston its full travel into the caliper body. on the RIGHT/REAR caliper, you turn the caliper piston COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, and compress piston simultaneously, to return the caliper piston back into the body. PAY ATTENTION TO THIS!!! You DO NOT need to loosen the bleeder screw. ATTEMPTING TO CARRY THIS OUT IN ANY OTHER METHOD OTHER THAN THE WAY I'VE DESCRIBED ABOVE WILL RESULT IN THE NEED TO BUY NEW CALIPERS!!!!! Hope this helps.

I replaced the rear brakes on my 2006 ford 500 because the pads were worn. I rented the tool from Autozone to turn the pistons back in. Now the drivers side rear brake sticks, smokes, and gets hot during regular driving. What do I need to do to make this stop? During my brake job I had to remove the passenger side caliper to get the piston to turn back in (left handed threads that I didn't realize until it was too late) I bled the passenger side line and have no issue with that side.

Pop the hood of your Ford, then take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Then use the C-clamp to push the cylinders on both sides back in. Put on the new pads and new disc brakes if needed. After replacing all the parts, put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir and go about bleeding all four brakes to get the air out of the lines. Once you get that done, top up the brake fluid in the reservior. Good Luck.

wow. u must have put some miles on this car in one year to need new brakes. today may be your lucky day cause i had this problem in my civic. what i did was with the caliper off the rotor and no pads was to push on brake pedal to push the cylinder out! then i put the c clamp on and it went right on in. so to sum it up: i had to first let cylinder come out and then it went back in. i know it sounds strange but it worked. good luck. drop me a line if it works for you too. if it does, u owe me a beer.

how do keep the caliper from sticking??

The CVT replaced into in common terms around for 2 or 3 years, there's a clarification for that. additionally could desire to the CVT fail, it is no longer a serviceable unit, you may desire to purchases a clean or used transmission. The Haldex AWD equipment isn't the ideal the two. i does not purchase this automobile. The CVT is a deal breaker for me. And it is "brakes" no longer "breaks".

You could pop the bleeder screw but the piston SHOULD bottom out in the caliper without needing to do this. You may need something stronger than a C-clamp.

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Try opening the master cylinder. This will allow for fluid movement but no air into the system.