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My car dies while engine is running?

I have a 1999 Honda Accord. I have had it for about 3 years, and I have taken great care of it. Oil changes, tire rotations, air filters, engine flushes, etc...Routine maintenance has always been done when needed.

Over the last 2 weeks, I have been at a stop light, and the engine will shut itself off. The only light that goes off in the dash is the key light, telling me my keys are still in the ingnition. This has happened to me about 8 times. I can start my car again, after turning my engine over about 2-5 times.

What could this be?

Update:

Also, I have a half tank of gas. So I know I'm not out of gas!

Update 2:

Yes, after it restarts, it does crank weak, and the milage is in the 87K range.

Update 3:

Dunno if it's a V6 or 4 cyl. I think it's a V6 though.

7 Answers

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  • 1 decade ago
    Favorite Answer

    Well you have listed one of the only two ways a car "dies", - the other would ge D.O.A.-- Or in this case dead when you try to start it! Most likely it is one of two problems,- The first being that you have something like a vaccuum leak ,or maybe a little "crud builit up in "idling venturi" setup in fuel delivery (whether fuel injection or carbueration)! There is a third possibility, and that is that the idle speed is just too low.

    If it is just idle speed change, this can be taken care by adjustments,- but make sure it isn't blockage or leak that is probelm first!

    So lets start with a little diagnosis "project"! This is only at (stop),--lights (ie: engine is warmed up and has been driven for a while).. This "drops" high speed idle that operates when "cold fuel enrichment valve" is on --(sort of equivalent of "automatic choke" on old carbureted cars!) When engine heats up enough the computer senses this and shuts that part off! Now if carbon and other imputities have built up in "venturi area" (venturi is where gas is metered into induction system)---- anyway if there is "gunk built up there, it may partially plug area where gas vaporizes- and could slow down amount entering with air to "feed engine). This is turn "starves" engine,- and it dies!! You can probaly solve this problem 80% of the time with a can of "Berryman B-12",-(all the better auto supply stores & WalMart sell it)! Fuel injection and carb cleaner will do the trick too,but it will probably require three cans" of it to clean up system enough. The Berryman will do it a whole lot quicker! It is possible that you have a little moisture being picked up and freezing on injector nozzle also (this comes from condensation of air in tank on high humidity days)-- the more you drive near "empty'' the more air can come in to fil the empty part!) The Berryman will pull this through and burn it with gas too! With moisture , -the closer to freezing, the more prevalent it will be (from either side of freezing)!

    Now the "Vaccuum factor", - if one of vaccuum hoses near intake system is leaking, it may be allowing air to enter the "induction system" (where and and gas mix before going ito engine to be burned)-- it can allow to much air in proportion to the gas, and it will make slow running engine die! Th eslower teh negine runs, the more effect a vaccuun leak will have!......... It may still run in nuetral (if automatic transmission), but die in "drive"-- due to the increased "drag" on engine"-- so see if it still idles ok when in neutral! If it does, then it comes down to too slow idle, -or "restricted fuel flow, - or vaccuum leak!l (All have been coverd above)! But if it is vaccuum leak, you may be able to hear a "sucking" (or sort of weak whistling sound) coming from around outside of the inductuion system (between where air comes into the top of engine through air cleaner, and engine itself)! -- Look for split, kinked, or broken hoses, - probably small hose less than 1/4 inch outside diameter! You will find maybe 6 to 8 hoses this size in area! Sometimes you may "block" the leak, or feel it with your fingers if you feel around where they plug into engine on either end! These little hoses will split from time to time as they get older! If you find a "split hose end", you can cut it off al little behind where the split started and see if it will still slip on without splitting,-- if it seems fine you can just plug it back on and drive, --if hose looks pretty "bad" already, you can go and buy another one and replace before it splits again,(it only costs about a dollar a foot at car supply stores)!

    Now here's something you can try also, - if your car idles a little faster when the air-conditioner is on , - turn it on and see if the engine now runs a little faster, - if this keeps the engine from dying, you know it is idle probblems of some kind! You could locate and unplug the a/c comperssor, and drive with this turned on (and blower speed on "low" unless using heater),-- Most "modren a/c units run with heater to keep humiditiy inside down anyway- so it wont "fog up" glass as fast!) You could do this while the fuel system is cleaned out, when it seems to be idleing "unusually fast" again (while sitting at stoplight), - turn off a/c and see if it now runs ok!, -- If it does, your probelm has "passed"! Wait a couple days to make sure it is staying that way, then hook up the compressor again (this way you can just flick on the a/c and keep engine running so you won't have probelm at "every stop" for a while)!

    Problem could be electronic also, but don/t overlook this "possibly cheap remedy!" This happens much more often than people know, as they usually get a "big bill" with a dozen problems taken care of (which may have existed also - (or may not have)!

    Source(s): old mechainc
  • 4 years ago

    Car Dies While Running

  • 1 decade ago

    Sounds like a main relay. They were a high failure item on the older cars and control power to the fuel pump and injectors. They will warm up and break connection, then work later when cool. About 80 bucks from a dealer. Good luck.

    Oh, engine oil "flushes" are a scam. The hot solvent used will eat gaskets faster then the acids gasoline leaves behind. If you change the oil regularly the engine won't sludge up. The service advisors who sell them to you generally get 25$ a mark.

  • 1 decade ago

    Need more info on this... is the car v6 or 4 cyl? When you try to re-start the car after it stalled, does it crank weak? What's the mileage on the car?

    You may have an alternator starting to go bad. It maybe due to a faulty battery, alternator constantly trying to charge a faulty battery and working itself to death. The other thing is the alternator is simply old and worn. If your car is a V6, honda have alternator problem on V6 accords.

    Source(s): ASE tech..
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  • 1 decade ago

    Well a couple of things come to mind, the one that I remember the most from my Honda days is the distributor. They had problems with them during the late 90's. The hard part is trying to diagnose it because it does restart. The bad thing is there were no replacement parts for the distributor back when I was working for Honda, you had to buy the whole distributor and it wasn't cheap.

  • 1 decade ago

    Sounds like you have a weak fuel pump

  • 1 decade ago

    Put in gas...No really though I bet it might be a fuel pump. Could be exhaust plugged.

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