Help on rifle scope sighting?

You can work out for your self where you should sight by drawing triangles that have points where the deer is, where you will be shootin from and the straight line distance beneath you that the deer is. For an example: if the deer is a straight ine distance from you of 100 Yards, that is 1 line and 2 points on the triangle. Then draw a line straight down from where you are the distance that deer is below you.

So if the deer is 25 yards below you then that line is 25 yards long and you have 1 more line and 1 more point in the triangle. Then the 3rd line in the triangle is from the point 25 yards directly beneath you directly horizontal and to the deer.

Using a bullit drop table you can find how far the bullit will drop during the straight line distance from the point 25 yards directly beneath you to the deer. Then with how fast your bullit travels you can figure out how much you should hold over or under the center of your crosshairs. I used to be able to figure this out easily when I was younger but it's not so easy now.

I hope you can find tables for this at a big sporting goods store so that you don't have much figuring to do but can just read what you need to do from the table. One thing you need to do is not go nuts about this. When I shot my first buck I was on a hill about 50 feet above his level. I had buck fever real bad and couldn't figure hold over or under in my head so held over the deer when the deer was only about 50 yards away.

Of course my bullit went way over him. When the buck was 100yards away I held 1 inch over him and still shot above him. At about 200 yards I held right on the top of his back at the shoulder and he dropped. I had hit him exactly where I had aimed and broke his spine. If I had aimed fir his shoulder at 50 yards that is where I would have hit him. If I had aimed exactly for his shoulder at 100 yards, that is where I would have hit him.

Shooting a 165 grain bullit from a 30-06, the distance meant nothing at all at those relatively short distances. It may make a difference where you will hunt and with the round you are shooting but don't go nuts :-)

First, I don't know what you mean by, 'zero out'? It sounds like your el crappo Bushnell scope lacks the variable adjustment range of a more serious optic such as Leupold makes. Whether you're boresighting correctly I don't know? The real test will come when you actually shoot the gun; so, perhaps, this question is premature. You could be dealing with a bore sight problem, or a scope mount problem. Again, I really don't know? I do know that you meant to say, 'reticle' and not, 'objective'. You only adjust an, 'objective lens' for parallax at specific known ranges. What can you do to fix this? Well, you can move the horizontal crosshair either up or down. You may, or may not, have sufficient adjustment range to, 'zero' the scope. (The particular gun, mounts, and bullet are involved.) The last time this happened to me I got rid of the minimally adjustable Redfield scope I was using and bought my 2nd or 3rd Leupold Vari-X II's. I've been Leupold and Zeiss ever since! The final thing I'll tell you is that, in today's marketplace, $250.00 does NOT buy very much scope; and, boresighting is only able to accomplish so much. To be really, 'on' I've always had to actually shoot the gun. You might want to take a look at some other scopes like: Leupold's, 'Rifleman', Burris, Nikon, or Sightron. They're NOT Vari-X II's or III's; but they may have more adjustment range to offer.

I use a .308 165 gr honady sst in my remmy 700 bdl. With a 200 yd zero. I'm good to go to about 270 yds. It is the Point Blank Range (PBR). This means I can place the shot in a 9" circle (about the size of the kill zone of a deer). I have taken many deer from tree stands 25' up and have never had to worry about the angle of the shot. This doesn't mean it's not important..it is..sort of. I'm hunting..not trying to place a shot through a small opening to save someones life. You should be fine but if you really need to know this go to the following link and ask.

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

they can help better than some answers you'd get on here.

At 50 Yd.s. 15 Deg., with a .308 the difference in drop

won't show up at all.

Your big concern in fine accuracy would be parallax,

(the difference between line of sight and line of bore).

The .308 shoots at about 2700 FPS., and only drops

about 2" in the first 200 yd.s, so with a 100 Yd. zero,

you'd not need to worry about under/over hold on a deer

till you get out to 250 yd.s or so.

As to shooting at an angle, Simply put:

When shooting at an angle, up or down, you figure your bullet drop

by the HORIZONTAL range.

If the deer is 100 Yd.s from the base of your tree stand, then that's

the range to figure your hold for.

Your angle of shot would remove the bullet drop adjustment you have to make by 33% for a down angle of 30 degrees. So you would aim 1/3 lower at that shot compared to flat shooting at the same distance. Lets assume you have a 9 inch drop from muzzle then you would aim 3 inches lower at that angle compared to a flat shot.

. Generally, shooting either up or down hill at a significant angle causes the shooter to hit a bit higher than he might shooting on the level.but the fifteen degree angle from a tree or tower stand should have no influence on your shot placement. Your rifle, sighted to hit 1.5-2 inches high at 100 yards should be effectively "point blank" out to 300 allowing you to center your scope on a deer's chest without having to allow for elevation or wind deflection unless the wind is extremely high . Three hundred yards is a bit far for most of us to be shooting at game

Your question is too complex for me. I never use rocky mountain windage or elevation. Dead on 243 at 100/308 at 100/300H&H 200 ,shooting for a vital spot dead on,every things a hit at the ranges you mention. Shots are too hard to come by to depend on angles and allowances. Jesse