TEDDY T

I've had my John Deere Z375R for about 3 or 4 years.  In the last couple of years on occasion when I turn the key it will not start.  It won't turn over, click or anything.  I have the brake on, the steering arms in the out position and the blade is disengaged.   Usually after a few turns of the key it will finally start. Sometimes I hop on and it turns right over, other times it may take 6 or 8 turns, lately it's been 15 or 20.  And yet again, sometimes I hop on and it starts right up.  I assume there is some sort of a short in the ignition?  Or something loose in the ignition?  If you are familiar with this issue, please let me know.  I am relatively handy and want to fix it on my own if it's not too difficult.   Thanks 

My son has a 2016 Tao Tao DB 114 dirt bike. It starts with one kick on choke. I then turn the choke off and let the bike idle. It idles great, nice and smooth. Then after about 5 minutes it bogs down and dies. Then will not start at all. When I kick start it, I get some resistance or push back from the kick lever. And it will not start at all.

If I let it sit for a an hour or over night, same thing. Starts nicely and then bogs down.

I have changed the spark plug and the fuel filter. There seems to be fuel flowing. I have a new carb, but have not put it on because I m not convinced that s it. There is an idle adjustment on the carb, but no mixture adjustment. We have a second bike like it for his twin. No issues with that, so I m not sure if it is a gas issue, as we have used the same fuel for both. Or at least I assume. Is it an air mixture issue, bad gas, fuel flow or carb issue?? Thanks for your help in advance!!

I have a 30 amp breaker in my home panel that runs to a sub panel in my garage. The breaker in the main panel keeps tripping. I have tried to reset both the main and the garage breakers many times, but no luck. The sub panel has a 30 amp breaker, then 2 - 20 amp breakers for lights and switches. I have disconnected everything in the garage plugged into a plug, in case something was causing it to trip.

No luck. The home was built in 2005, and I have never had an issue until this winter. I have even replaced the 30 amp breaker in the main panel in case it was bad. No luck. Any suggestions on what I could try next?

I have a cable type track lighting system that is integrated with 2 can lights. The can lights work, but the track lights do not. I've tried to replace bulbs, no luck. I replaced the low voltage transformer, but no luck. Any suggestions? They are on a 4-way switch with one being a dimmer. It worked for years, but then one day, nothing, just the cans lights worked.

I have a gas log fireplace that has a glass enclosure on the front. I can remove the glass, but nothing I have tried will remove the hazy film that is baked on the inside of the glass. Is there any tricks to remove this?

I have 2 Liftmaster door openers that are about 10 years old. One of them seems to lose power every once in a while. When it does not work, I noticed that the light on the wall control button is not lite up. The 2nd opener has not had the same issue. When the light on the button goes out, the second unit is still lite. I have not done anything to it, and would notice that a day later the light would be back on and the unit would work. Could there be a short somewhere? The control pad has the door Button, a light button and lock button. Pushing any of these does not do anything. Its happened 4 times in the last 2 months. What's up?? Does the wall control pad just pop open to get to the wires? I don't want to break it. Thanks for the help.

I have a 6.5 hp Sears Craftsman Eager 1 mower with a 22 inch cut. It is about 15 years old. The mower has always worked great. A couple years ago I did have to replace the belt on the Self-propelled unit.

When I engage the wheels by pushing down the lever, nothing happens. I checked the belt and it is ok. The wheels lock up when I engage them with the lever. When I disengage them, they turn freely. I am able to pull on the belt and get the wheels to turn. Is there a problem with the drive unit itself?

I can't seem to get rid of them. They've been raising havouc for a few years! Any help?

I have a 1998 Mastercraft that is in pretty good condition. It has a little chalkyness on the back end that I can't seem to remove. The color is black and I also have a cover that covers the entire swim platform. Any suggestions? Also, I keep my boat on a hoist, but over time, have developed a little "yellowing" on the bottom white gel coat. What can I use or do to remove that and freshen up the white color? Thanks!

I have a Sears Craftsman week whacker and leaf blower. Neither run well. Yesterday I changed the plug and emptied out the gas in the weed whacker, and refilled with fresh oil mixed gas. I'm running a 40:1 mix in them. Hopefully that is correct. Anyway, it still did not cure the problem in the weed whacker. It runs poorly and often bogs out, especially when I give it gas. I pretty much have to run it at idle to keep it running. The blower is the same, accept it has a choke and I have to have it around 1/2 choke to keep it running. And that is still not very good. Any suggestions? I thought maybe the carburetors were dirty or gummed up. I'm semi handy, but not a wiz.

I have a home that has a lot of pine trees around it. My lawn is very thin on the front and side where the pines are, and doing much better on the side that has more desiguous trees. The soils are very sandy, but have about 6 inches of topsoil that I brought in after the home was built. I have an irrigation system also. The perenials and shrubs around the home are weak as well. Can I counter the accidity of the soils from the pine trees with fertilizer or something? What kind? Can it be added to the plants and shrubs as well?

I have a Craftsman DYT 4000 Riding Mower. It wasn't starting, only making a buzzing noise when I turned the key. I thought it was the starter or solenoid, so I just installed a new solenoid and starter. Everything is hooked up, but when I turn the key, the starter gear does not raise up to engage the flywheel. It just spins. So, essentially it is making the same noise as before, leading me to believe that maybe my starter may not have been bad after all. Am I missing something? I'm not sure what needs to be done. I checked all the wire connections, and everything seems to be hooked up correctly. Any help out there?

I have a Craftsman Leaf Blower that is difficult to start, and when I get it started, it runs poorly. The plug is good, but I'm wondering if the gas could be bad? I am using a 40:1 mixture, but their may have been some gas left in it from last year. When it does start, I need to play with the choke lever to keep it running, and it only runs at about 1/2 its RPM. Help?

I have a Craftsman Model #917.273643 Riding Lawn Mower. It has an 18.5 hp Briggs & Stratton engine. When I turn the key it makes a buzzing noise. The engine does not turn over at all, and there is no clicking noise. The battery is fully charged and has a good connection. Could the starter be bad? If so, is it hard to change out? Thanks!

I have a track light system that has 5 halogen bulbs that hang from a cable. Two cables stretch across the ceiling about 12 feet from a junction box. on either side of the track light system are can lights. They are on a 4 way switch. They have worked with no problems for years, and for some reason one day, none of the track lights worked. The cans still work fine, but for some reason not the track system. I tried replacing a bulb, but that didn't help. I used one of those cheap electricity sensors that you check the power at an outlet or switch and put it on the cables, and it beeped as if there is power going down the line. It did the same at the bottom of the cables where the bulb fixture is attached. What gives?! Any ideas? Thanks

When I close my overhead door, it seems to bind up in the same spot every time. Often, it sends the door back up. It's a 9 x 7 insulated aluminum door. Do I need to adjust the track, or grease it or what? It seems to be the 2nd set of wheels gets bound up at the 90 degree turn. thanks for the help

I am trying to install a new Delta Tub Faucet. I removed the old faucet from the wall, however the threaded copper fitting from the old faucet stayed attached to the copper pipe. I need to remove this to get to the threaded male end soldered to the copper pipe. This will allow me to just screw the new faucet on. I tried to unscrew it using a pipe wrench and vice grips. I'm afraid if I reaf on it too hard, it will break the solder joint at the copper fitting. Its stuck on pretty good. I can see that there looks like there is white teflon tape on the inside of the fitting. Is there a Plumber's trick to getting this off without breaking the solder joint, or bending the copper? Thanks