luke

It's brand new, but after I installed it on the wall in my bathroom with the plastic wall mount, it only runs for a minute or two before it shuts off, & stays off. I'm lucky if I get this small bathroom up to 68 degrees. Then I turn it off, & come back 10 or 15 mintes later, & it will come back on for another minute or two. It seems to have a faulty overtemp limit switch, but I can't get any parts for it from Holmes, since they got out of the heater business. How can I fix this?

I have this fireplace wall facing the north wind, & I discovered that it's just drywall all the way up to a 15 foot ceiling. No insulation behind the drywall at all. No wonder the heater has to turn on every 5 minutes.

I plan on building a 2x4 frame with 16" studs on center. Then stapling faced R-15 insulation on the drywall side. Then using mdx or whatever that plywood stuff is to seal it in place so there's absolutely no chance of it ever falling down on the fireplace insert.

I noticed Home Despot has 3 different types of 2x4's. Which one is the hardest type, & do I need batting in between the 2x4's already there & this new frame or is it common practice to just nail 2x4's together such as in door frames.

I noticed home despot has 3 different types of 2x4's.

I finally had to replace my siding around the chimney area outside, & discovered that there was a 2 ft x 2 ft missing drywall piece right above the insert. It does still have the black fiber board, but the drywall is mysteriously missing.

Does anyone know of a reason for that? I'm planning on sealing it up with something because this house is really drafty.

Unfortunately, it appears to me that the ductwork was not embedded in the concrete, as you would think it would be by code. Since a lot of dirt & sand has infiltrated the rusted out boxes, & there is no concrete below it.

Also, there appears to be a plenum that the tabs just go through the box which is just a plain box, no extensions, angles or anything else. So it would just be a plain box with a hole cut in it at the side bottom.

I bought a used computer yrs ago, but just now found that my lexmark printer z735 didn't have a power supply.

It's the slide in type power supply 30 volt, so I think any on ebay will work, but I better get the number off the power supply to be sure.

Lexmark has no parts list. I already checked.

On Oct. 1st, I was taking down this tree limb for the neighbor lady, & I didn't expect it to bounce back up, so I ended up with a 6" scrape on my shin bone. It was swollen for a month or so, & yes, I did go to the urgent care clinic when the swelling didn't go down after a week, complaining that it felt like there was a splinter under the skin. She gave me antibiotics & a tetanus shot, which made no difference. 4 mths later, I still have one spot that hasn't fully healed but the swelling has gone. The weird thing is, I can move the skin back & forth around the entire area, but that one spot, is stuck in place. What is that? Do I have a bone splinter that it has attached itself to?

This is in a very tight spot. The only metal shed small enough to fit in that area has the door on the wrong side. So I have no choice but to build one. It will be about 4' wide x 8' long. With the door on the narrow side.

I read where a guy can dig a trench outline for the support beams, fill it with gravel & then level it all for the base. I know I need treated wood for the base, but what about the rest of the shed?

Is it ok to use bricks instead of gravel or will a heavy shed eventually break them?

What size wood for the base?

Would 4x4x8 treated post work for the base since it would be wide enough to screw 2x4's to it for the frame?

Do I need treated plywood for the floor too?

Do those bracket kits work so you don't have to cut any 2x4s at an angle.

I'm installing these overflow popup valves in the front yard, & I had a difficult time cutting it a little lower so the popup valve would be at the same height, since the original line was just capped, not threaded. I'm hoping a plumber knows the best tool for this. I know those little handheld cutters are for smaller pipe.

I live by myself & for years I always used 1000 gallons a month. Then one day the city decided there must be something wrong with it & replaced it. Now for the past 6 mths they say I've been using 3000 a mth. Not possible. This is my everyday routine. I flush the toilet about 6 times a day, I wash dishes once a week in the sink, not the dishwasher, I take a shower every 3 or 4 days, & I change the birdbath twice a day. That doesn't add up to more than 1500 a month for sure in the summertime & even less in the winter time. I've already checked the main line for leaks & fixed minor toilet leaks months ago.

You can click start, all programs, accessories, system tools, & system information. Tell me what it says after processor.

I opened it up to look at the wiring diagram & how it works. 230v looks straight forward. Two hot wires coming in, one goes to the far left terminal, one goes to the far right terminal. Two pump motor wires go to the inside terminals.

I know most people go with 230v pumps, but we are on a budget & 115v is cheaper & we should just be able to plug it in under the house.

I'm thinking to wire the switch for 115v you will still have the 4 wires, but there will only be one hot wire on the left side, & the other side will have the return path line, technically not hot until it kicks on.

Plus, i noticed the grounding terminal in the box, what do you ground that too?

We already ran the service entrance cable into the house & connected to the main breaker box months ago. Problem now is there is no room for a 230 volt breaker in the box, so can we just connect each hot pump wire directly to each hot service entrance terminals & run the ground to the ground inside the box?

Then I bought a 240v Square D disconnect box with screw in breakers that will be under the trailer. Any problems with this setup?