electrosmack1

Hey, I was doing research for a topic about nurses who smoke, care to join in? All your answers are helpful. Please, feel free to specify if you've worked at a hospital as a nurse before or currently. Cheers!

1) Would you be concerned if your nurse smoked?

2) Are you concerned of indirect cigarette smoke passing from nurse to patient?

3) Would you be open to smoking bans at hospitals?

4) Are you in favor of the nurses’ right to smoke or are you in favor of patients’ health regarding the possible transmission of indirect cigarette smoke?

Hey, I was doing research for a topic about nurses who smoke, care to join in? All your answers are helpful. Please, feel free to specify if you've worked at a hospital as a nurse before or currently. Cheers!

1) Would you be concerned if your nurse smoked?

2) Are you concerned of indirect cigarette smoke passing from nurse to patient?

3) Would you be open to smoking bans at hospitals?

4) Are you in favor of the nurses’ right to smoke or are you in favor of patients’ health regarding the possible transmission of indirect cigarette smoke?

Hey, I was doing research for a topic about nurses who smoke, care to join in? All your answers are helpful. Please, feel free to specify if you've worked at a hospital as a nurse before or currently. Cheers!

1) Would you be concerned if your nurse smoked?

2) Are you concerned of indirect cigarette smoke passing from nurse to patient?

3) Would you be open to smoking bans at hospitals?

4) Are you in favor of the nurses’ right to smoke or are you in favor of patients’ health regarding the possible transmission of indirect cigarette smoke?

What do you photograph, and why do you photograph?

I was just interested in knowing does any manufacture offer digital backs for medium format cameras, specifically the Mamiya RB 67 or Bronica ETR/S?

I was interested in cool tone photographic papers, and possibly using them in the future. However, I was unsure what all I would need.

Places like Freestyle and B&H sell cool tone enlarging paper, but they also sell cool tone developers.

Do I have to use the cool tone developers along with the cool tone enlarging papers, or could I use this special paper in Dektol and get the same "cool" effect?

Anyone take any interesting photographs over this past week? Want to post them for others to see? What's your favorite photograph?

Post a link if you can, or tell the story.

I was reading in an older Pop Photo magazine I have about landscape photography, and how a good photograph is based on proper exposure. And, of course, composition. They followed a photographer who discussed his gear, and the importance of exposure. Starting out, he used a Nikon D50, then a D200.

My question is, how much is the quality of a good landscape photograph based on exposure, composition, and lighting.... And how much is a good landscape photograph based on actual gear; the camera, the lenses, etc.... And how much is based on post processing, like with Photoshop?

I use a Nikon D50 right now and one of the big problems that I see in my images is short exposure latitude-blown highlights, clipped shadows-and dull colors. Would another camera such as the Nikon D200 or Canon 20d help me out more than say, learning how to better utilize Photoshop? I just feel that however much I try, "proper exposure" is never met, even though I read the camera's meter, and "expose to the right."

If anyone could offer their 2 cents. Thanks.

I was just looking over the two new lenses Nikon released, the 10-24mm f3.5-4.5 and the 35mm f1.8. My question is, are these lenses really necessary? The 12-24mm Nikon lens covers about the same focal length, has a fixed aperture, and is better built from what I hear. The 12-24mm can also be found for the same price as the new 10-24mm.

The 35mm f1.8 is DX cropped, making it incompatible with 35mm SLRs or a FX camera body.

Did Nikon make a mistake with these two lenses? Or am I just over-reacting.

I was interested in using watercolor over graphite. The internet was of little help. Would anyone be able to explain the steps involved with this painting technique?

I was considering selling some of my camera equipment to KEH, but was concerned if their price quote is reasonable, or if it usually fluctuates once they receive it? I've bought a lot of my photographic equipment from them, but....

I dont really want to invest all the time, shipping, and insurance if they are just going to try to BS me. Does anyone have any input?

I'm using GIMP right now to adjust my digital photos. When I adjust the hue, saturation or tone of a certain color in an image, any similar color will become pixelated. For instance, when I darken a blue hue, any lighter blue value will dramatically stand out and look very cubed, or pixelated.

Is there anyway to make these adjustments without creating this negative effect?

Someone mentioned working with masks/quick masks might remedy the problem. But, I'm not sure what they meant. I'm not too familiar with using masks, so how would this be used in my situation? For that matter, what are layer masks?

Thanks.

I got 5 rolls of slide film in the mail today, however, I'm a little clueless about actually using it (I'm use to black and white film). Everyone I hear from says, 'expose for the highlights.' How exactly would this work if I were photographing a typical landscape under bright sunlight? Wouldn't the sky be blown out, and/or the foreground be pitch black? Or the other way around? What would be the 'proper' way to meter and expose a scene like this? Thanks.

I bought an Old Standard Rolleiflex from KEH.com, but, I did so without considering the type of film it uses. I asked the sales associate, but she seemed a little unsure. She said it used 120 film. This is good, since this is what I was wanting. But, I still am a little uneasy.

The reason I question the film type is because there are several types of Old Standards. The one I purchased has a 75mm f3.8 Tessar. The other models from this period have an f3.5 and 4.5 aperture, and use 620, 621, and 622 film; all of which are not made or hard to find. I was wanting a 120 6x6 camera, nothing more.

Does anyone know where I can find some concrete information on this subject? Thanks.

Does anyone happen to know what the K-Factor is for Nikon light meters? More specifically, a Nikon D50. I compared it to my N8008s, and both meter the scene identically. But since I do not have a calibrated monitor, it's difficult to pinpoint the k-factor, or if in fact it has one or not.

Something I did notice is that a single value placed on Zone V turns out quite a bit lighter than normally, when viewing on the back LCD screen. But when I upload the image to my computer, the value seems a bit darker, but not much. Can anyone help me out?

I bought a few black and white filters a couple of days ago, and I was needing some help understanding the filter factor. I have a yellow K2 and an orange G filter. The K2 has a factor of two, while the G filter has a factor of 3. From what I gather, those 2 and 3x filter factors translates to a one stop and 1 2/3 stop difference, respectively. My question is, do I add or subtract that to the original exposure? Thanks.

I started using Kodak Tri X 320, but I began to expose it at E. I. 200; for smaller grain. My question is, since I overexposed the film, would I then under develop for compensation; that is, to achieve a properly developed negative? Or would I develop at the suggested 200 ISO times to get normal densities? I'm lost.

I have an Wollensak enlarging lens, and wouldn't you know, it also works as a wider angle lens on a 4x5". The problem is, the aperture is deformed and only goes to f8-f32; which I'm not even sure is correct or not. (The aperture is shaped like an oval). What's the best way to test a lens like this to see whether or not it's performing properly, or close to it?

I was thinking about making an exposure of a blank, evenly lit wall and placing its value on Zone V. Meter at about f8, and then make the exposure. I could then make another exposure at f11, then at f16. Then Develop as normally in HC-110. I just don't know if I should develop individually or in a tank...?

Have any suggestions on what to do? Thanks.

I'm using Ilford Multigrade IV enlarging paper, which is by default grade 2, but I was wanting the ability to print at higher grades. I know Ilford makes multicontrast filters, but they are a little expensive for me. Can I just use screw mount black and white filters to similar effect? Like a k2 filter or an orange filter? Thanks.

I'm using HC-110, from concentrate, which requires the use of dilutions to get a desired effect. I'm familiar with dilution B, a 1:31 solution, but I'm not sure how to get this dilution from the stock solution. To get the stock, you take 1 part concentrate to 3 parts water, or 1:3. Then add that 1:3 solution to a 1:7 of water. This is dilution B. My question is, how does this work out, mathematically speaking? More specifically, how would I solve this on a calculator, or in my head? (I'm not sure how you get 1:31 from adding 1:3 and 1:7. Thanks for any help.