Dominic

I had to install a new fuel pump for someone and I had to splice into the old wiring harness and solder a new harness for the fuel pump. I soldered the connections and sealed them over with marine heat shrink from harbor freight. is this safe for long term? as for today the truck ran fine but I dont know if I really made the right call using regular marine heat shrink. is it gasoline safe?

I have a 1999 maxima with the VQ30DE engine & a 5-speed manual transmission. It has almost 215,000 miles on it (synthetic oil only) but runs like a champ. I've rebuilt the front end, new struts, control arm bushings, CV axles, ball joints, everything, rebuilt all the brake calipers, new rotors, etc.

I basically love my car, ive put in tons of maintenance to keep it in top shape, but I want to know if it's a good idea to plan on keeping it until it has maybe 400,000 or 500,000 miles?

It is realistic to think that I could easily hit 500k with my car as long as I keep replacing whatever breaks? I did a compression test a few days ago and my cylinders were all between 125-140psi.

Would it make economical sense to drive this car into the ground for as long as I can? Or would there be a point where buying a different car would be best.

Do I have to use the exact same type of car batteries or can I use 2-3 different but very similar car batteries? Would this cause any issues?

I'm just hooking them up positive-positive-positive & negative-negative-negative

Specifically an impact wrench and ratchet from harbor freight. If i oiled them every time I used them and took care of them, could I possibly expect 30+years out of them or is 3-5 years more likely.

Pretty straightforward, the interior lights on my 1999 maxima gets slightly brighter and dimmer while my car idles. The lights pulsate.

Any suggestions? It's kind of irritating because I just replaced the alternator with a remanufactured autozone one not even 6 months ago.

I feel like it should only be revving up to 1500 rpm at start, it only goes up to like 2500 at a cold start before slowing down to normal idle speed. I've messed with the throttle cables in the past and and I tried loosening them to see if this problem would go away but it hasn't, it still revs to 2500 at a cold start and there is some clatter when it does this.

If the engine had already been running for awhile and I shut it off and restart it, it only revs to 1500.

Whenever I let the clutch out from 0mph, there are usually 1 or 2 pops just as I get moving. It dosent matter if im going straight or turning, just as my car starts to move there is often a popping / clunking noise. It makes the same noise when shifting into 2nd and sometimes 3nd gear also whenever the momentum of the car shifts forward as I let the clutch out.

It is a front wheel drive 1999 Nissan Maxima

Please throw out any & all suggestions as to what it might be, it will make it easier to inspect components. (No, im not taking it to a shop)

I do a lot of work on my car and have recently replaced a couple things that I thought might be causing the pops, only to have the sound continue after I did the repair. all together in the past 1-2 years I have replaced:

-struts

-rebuilt the brake calipers, new hardware, new rotors

-new polyurethane control arm bushings

-sway bar bushings, end links, & end link bushings

-power steering rack and tie rods

-ball joints

-rear motor mount

-transmission mount

-both CV axles

I have no clue what could be causing the noise. I dont know what to look for because I'm not sure what else could be causing it. I've done what I could to inspect what I could but, surely, i missed something.

Thanks for your help

Whenever I let the clutch out from 0mph, there are usually 1 or 2 pops just as I get moving. It dosent matter if im going straight or turning, just as my car starts to move there is often a popping / clunking noise. It makes the same noise when shifting into 2nd and sometimes 3nd gear also whenever the momentum of the car shifts forward as I let the clutch out.

It is a front wheel drive 1999 Nissan Maxima

Please throw out any & all suggestions as to what it might be, it will make it easier to inspect components. (No, im not taking it to a shop)

I do a lot of work on my car and have recently replaced a couple things that I thought might be causing the pops, only to have the sound continue after I did the repair. all together in the past 1-2 years I have replaced:

-struts

-rebuilt the brake calipers, new hardware, new rotors

-new polyurethane control arm bushings

-sway bar bushings, end links, & end link bushings

-power steering rack and tie rods

-ball joints

-rear motor mount

-transmission mount

-both CV axles

I have no clue what could be causing the noise. I dont know what to look for because I'm not sure what else could be causing it. I've done what I could to inspect what I could but, surely, i missed something.

Thanks for your help

(Sorry it's so long, thanks for reading)

I have a front wheel drive Nissan Maxima (5 speed) that consistently makes a single popping/clunking noise whenever I accelerate from a dead stop at 0mph. Say for example i back out of a parking spot while turning my wheel, after i shift into 1st gear, straighten the wheel, and start to let the clutch out, there will be 1 or 2 (usually 1) loud pops just as the car begins moving forward.

Sometimes i can also hear a faint pop as im shifting into 2nd gear. It doesnt pop when shifting into any other gear. It just seems to pop if i shift into 2nd while under lots of throttle.

Any advice is appreciated, if you want to just list off everything that comes to mind, thatd be great. I am suspecting a CV axle even though i have already replaced it with a remanufactured one from autozone awhile ago. (I think improper alignment may have worn out the inner knuckle prematurely, but again i dont know at all, since the boots are still fine)

Other stuff ive personally done in the past 30k miles:

-rear motor mount(failure)

-struts

-rebuilt the brake calipers, new hardware, new rotors

-ball joints

-contol arm bushings

-sway bar bushings, end links, and end link bushings

-both CV axles

-power steering rack & bushings

-inner & outer tie rods

I have no clue what else could be causing the popping. Subframe bushings? The steering column itself? Could it be a transmission issue?

So i have a 1999 front wheel drive maxima that consistently makes a single popping or clunking sound when accelerating from a dead stop at 0mph. It doesnt happen when accelerating from low speeds and there is no clicking when i drive while turning the wheel sharply.

Just a single pop almost every time i first get moving...

I am suspecting a CV axle even though i have already replaced it about a year ago. Other stuff ive done in the past 30k miles

-replace struts

-rebuilt brake calipters, new rotors

-new ball joints

-control arm bushings

-sway bar bushings, end links, & end link bushings.

-new power steering rack & bushings

-new tie rods

Ive inspected the front end & all the motor mounts and cant seem to recreate the problem with the car on jack stands. Is there any possibility is could just be the CV inner or outer joint went bad since i replaced it with a remanufactured part from autozone? The boots that cover it are still intact.

Its only when i get moving from a complete stop. There is usually a single popping noise. Theres no multiple pops when turning or anything, just a consistent single popping noise when im accelerating from a dead stop

Alright so my garage door wont go up or down. The 2 sensors that are on the door itself to make sure it doesnt close on anything are good, they have power and blink when u step between them. There is power to the circuitboard itself except when i press the button to open the garage, all it does is click. No lights flash or anything the motor just clicks. This happened out of nowhere, its not like the motor was going bad and slowly gave up. Everything was working fine 1 day ago.

Any tips to diagnose this? I was thinking the circuit board might have a bad solder connection or something?

All advice is appreciated, i just want to know some steps on what to look for and how to diagnose the issue and fix it myself.

So ive decided that im going to build my own house with a couple of 40ft shipping containers. Currently, before i start living in it, i plan on purchasing 1 used high cube 40ft container, spending maybe 6 months outfitting it with insulation, wiring, plumbing, such a as a water heater and a shower and kitchen appliances etc and when im done i want to ship it to a different state and THEN hook it up to a septic system and water main and power etc. However, my main concern is that i want to cut a few windows into the shipping container. Would shipping companies still be able to ship my container? Or would they refuse to ship it since i compromised the structural integrity by cutting windows into it? They wont be big windows, just enough to let light in. Would this be safe for transport and shipping overseas? Would this be allowed is all im asking?

Specifically: I want a cordless drill with a lifetime warranty. I want to be able to buy an expensive product without worrying about having it break in 3 years due to normal use every now and then. I know harbor freight has cheap drills, but i dont know about the quality. I think the top tier brands are things like DeWalt and RIGID but if anyone can share their own experience and preferences, id appreciate it.

So im afraid to crank my car up because:

I just attempted to seafoam my car thru the vacuum line for the brake booster by disconnecting it and slowly pouring in seafoam (as directed by the instructions) however when i tried to turn my car off by taking out the key, it kept running. I freaked out and disconnected the negative battery cable, only to have my car continue running for about 20 more seconds until it knocked and banged to a stop.

What. The. ****.

Is it safe to crank up my car now that it has stopped or should i have it trailed to a mechanic to see what went wrong? The instructions on the seafoam say it is safe to pour into the vacuum like, so i dont know why my car wouldnt stop running after i took the key out.

Im pretty sure theres too much water, and not too much coolant. Like a 70/30 split of water and coolant. Could this lead to overheating?

I have a 1999 maxima (5 speed) and on my left tail light, if i turn on all my headlights and everything there are 2 bulbs on my left tail lamp that light up red, and 2 on the right side bulb that light up. however when i press the brakes, one bulb on my right side gets much brighter and both bulbs on my left side stay the same brightness.

What could be causing this issue? Is it possible that i just need to replace the bulb that works but wont get brighter or is this an electrical issue of some sort?

If in just driving straight, and i brake to a stop, the moment i start accelerating again I hear a single POP noise. Then i can brake to a stop again, and start moving forward and there will be another POP noise when just going straight. It seems to only happen if i brake hard to a stop, if i just ease into the brakes until my car stops i dont hear the POP noise when i get moving again.

If i rebuild the calipers and install new rotors, do you think it would make a difference? Im not sure if caliper pistons could be making a popping noise. I think mine might be seized though because it is pretty much impossible to push them back in.