zchris87v

I have two Vizio tvs, a 42" smaet smart tv and a 32" regular. Remote to the 32" has been missing for some time, so I bought the basic Vizio replacement remote. The problem is, both remotes work fine on the 42" tv, but neither will access the menu button on the 32". Any ideas?

I've had some issues with my YJ with the original AMC 258. First things I did were replace the factory carb with a Weber and pressure regulator, and replace the fuel pump back when I bought it (May '12). Replaced the clutch slave cylinder after it went out. But I noticed after driving for a while, I'd notice the clutch start to slip as if there was oil on it. I assumed the rear main seal.

So I replaced the rear main seal and found a faulty oil pan gasket, which I also replaced, along with the valve cover gasket (bolts were hand-tight). For the most part, the problem went away until about 45 minutes of driving.

When I got back to my house after driving ~130 miles, the oil pressure hit zero. Let it sit for a couple of days (couldn't check for oil on the ground because of the rain) and I checked the level, it was below the dipstick. Started it up and checked the oil again with it running, this time it was several inches up on the dipstick (so the oil pump was working) but the oil looked thin, almost watery. Had pressure this time but there was smoke coming from where the dipstick goes into the oilpan.

I did fill up the radiator before I made the 150 mile trip, and the water level was still where it was when I left. Any ideas about the low oil pressure and seemingly watery oil? I plan on draining it and seeing if there is any oil/water separation. But I'm not experienced with these engines, so looking for any help.

I'm looking for one of those shoulder things that goes up, that's what the pro-AWB politicians tell me it's called.

I'm worried I won't be able to put the thingy on my shoulder and that it won't go up if they pass some sort of legislation. Should I be worried?

[By the way folks, I'm not a troll, just a former frequent Y!Aer that lost all his free time to work]

First off, I know the difference between real Ray Bans and fake ones. I owned a pair of what I thought may/may not have been fake Aviators (polarized lenses), but a Ray Ban retailer verified they were real. Not a big deal since I paid $50 for them (used).

My genius self tried to ride a dirtbike while wearing them and I ran them over, mangling the frames. Scratched up the lenses a little, but still visible. To replace them I bought a similar pair with G15 lenses, non polarized (which I realized after the fact, but I liked them). So now I have a pair of polarized Ray Bans with a damaged frame but halfway decent lenses. I can buy the Ray Ban knockoffs online for $20.

So I'm wondering, are these dimensionally the same so that I can use the real lenses with the fake frame?

I've got a rarely-fired Mauser 98 (1916, upgraded 1920 so it's one of the Weimar "transitional" models) that I picked up for $100 at a gun shop (first centerfire rifle I bought, around 4 years ago). It's been sporterized, the finish is a nice "rust" color, and the bore is in poor condition. So this gun, other than being the remnants of a rifle with an interesting history, is more or less unshootable (10" groups at 100 yards).

Would it be worth it to refinish the receiver and action, replace the barrel and have the headspacing turned correctly, restock it, and scope it? Everything except the barrel, finish, and stock is in excellent operating condition. It'll cost some money, but it'd make a nice 8mm hunting rifle.

I have a 1996 altima, ka24de, and I recently replaced plugs/wires/cap/rotor as routine maintenance since those had not been changed since I bought the car. I was driving down the road and it came to a dead stop, just shut off all of a sudden.

So I purchased all the possible suspects - a crank position sensor, ignition coil, and distributor - just to avoid multiple trips to the store. Crank position sensor was good, ignition coil was good, so it had to be the distributor, right?

I removed components and loosened the bolts on the distributor, then a friend who was helping me started twisting it before I could index it. Based on the marks of the washers, I took a guess at it, cleared the "check engine" codes caused by disconnecting sensors, and I was on my way (almost...turns out the relatively-new cap & rotor were defective. Got on my way by putting the original ones back on).

I talked the guys in the store into reimbursing me for the out-of-warranty cap & rotor, but couldn't return the distributor. So far it's been fine (32+mpg) and doesn't knock or ping. I did attempt to find the markings on the timing pulley but could not find them.

So where are these located? And since this is fuel injected, is the timing advance/retard automatic or must it be done manually?

I haven't been on here in 2 years, but I finally got a computer that will let me use Y!A. My TC status is long gone at this point. My gun collection has about 6 new members, you can certainly do a lot of perusing whilst not wasting time on here.

I see everyone's still stuck in the "Hunting" section, and until Yahoo learns the difference between a "Shotgun" and "Rifle" in Iowa, they certainly won't give "firearms" a section anytime soon.

Still firing off a barrage of sharp-witted sarcasm at the airsofters and CoDers?

I have an '87 YJ with the original AMC 258 and OEM ignition, the stock Carter BBD has been swapped for a Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor, now I'm trying to set the timing on it. I'm no expert on this...actually never set the timing on anything before but I know how it works.

I have the idle set around 750-800, timing light hooked to the #1 cylinder, and the mark isn't even reading on the scale (somewhere between 15 and 20°). It should be in the range of 6 to 10°, but it runs smooth and doesn't have any issues.

So what should I set the idle at to get the timing correct, and what should the timing be set at?

(I'm aware this should really be under an R&M category, but I'm hoping there are some pros in the Jeep category).

Alright, so I was watching Pawn Stars ("Priceless jewels? I'll give ya 25 cents!") and a flintlock pistol, apparently from the Ottoman Empire, caught my eye - mainly because it was very similar looking to one that my roommate left at my house.

I'd never really taken the time to identify it since I always thought it was a replica, but after hearing that the ramrod was sometimes decorative, even on older guns (no clue about the truth of this) to prevent it from being snagged in a holster, it became more attention-worthy. So here are some pictures I snapped...taken with a cell phone, so apologies for the quality...

http://i54.tinypic.com/4glpih.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/es7x3c.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/15eb8mx.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/2w73igx.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/axejwg.jpg

No serial numbers or anything other than engravings (which would probably give it away as a replica). I'm not familiar at all with muzzle-loading firearms, so any help I can get on this would be great!

I've got an old Zurich Police trade-in P228 that I bought when the last shipment hit the shores in Fall of '09. As the supply was a bit short and I wasn't able to nab one of the "Very Good" or "Good" handguns (as I normally would), I picked up one in "Fair" condition. Mechanically, it functions great. It shows obvious signs of holster wear and there is quite a large amount of side-to-side play in the back side of the slide when it's forward (0.5 to 1mm). Slide locked back, there's no issue.

So here's my question. Since this is one of the handguns I have a holster & spare mags for (and one of the better ones in my small collection), I was using it while practicing shotgun/handgun shooting scenarios. We were practicing while shooting at steel plates (six of them) at the range.

I was able to nail six plates with 8 rounds in the mag with my friend's Springfield XDm. Most of what he's done to it is fairly minimal to the performance whilst shooting (magwell, larger mag release, more defined front sight, weighted guide rod in the front).

I've done nothing to the SIG and have a lot more trigger time behind it than the XDm. But I wasn't able to hit jack. It took me 13 rounds to hit six steel plates at the same distance it took me 8 rounds to hit with the XDm. Granted, once I realized I was a little better at not pulling with the XDm, I improved a bit with the SIG, but I still was not as accurate with it.

So what I want to know is what it's going to take to get me to shoot as good with the SIG as the XDm. How much does the slide play have to do with inaccuracy? The play in the barrel with the slide locked between the two isn't a world of difference or anything, but will the difference while the slide is traveling forward have that much to do with it?

And before you ask, my friend (who owns the XDm) was able to hit 6 with 6 with the XDm and 6 with maybe 9 with the SIG. But I don't want to drop a whole bunch of money on a new slide as this wouldn't be a "competition gun". What can I do to correct this slide issue, or what else can be done with fairly minimal work (springs/guide rod, etc.) to help it out?

(I do plan on buying the .22LR upper for this gun, so it's not like I'm just going to toss it aside, either).

I sent off for my C&R today, but there were still a couple points of confusion in terms of selling any firearms falling under Curios & Relics that I currently own.

First, I cannot tell you if any of the guns fall under C&R classification. None that I own were sold/purchased as C&R-eligible items, even though they may have been (mostly purchased face-to-face). one, for example, is a sporterized Gewehr 98, and although the sporterization was likely done in the 1940's, I further cut the "knob" off the end of the stock for better feel/look (the original modifications weren't professionally-done). As this isn't "original", it wouldn't fall under C&R classification, if I understand correctly.

Second on the list would be a WWII K98 (1944), non-numbers matching. If the gun was assembled post-1946 with parts from various guns, is it not considered a C&R firearm?

Last would be a St. Louis Browning Auto 5 (mfg. 1941). I can't tell if the barrel is original, since it uses Remington's serial numbers but the receiver uses the "B" numbering that Remington used for their Browning-marked A-5's.

In what manner would these firearms fall under C&R status? And if I did pick up a C&R firearm at a gun show (a 91/30, for example) and all that was required was a cash transaction with no other record, and I wanted to sell that firearm, does it then fall under C&R classification?

Before I hear "you should've found this out before applying", I have no intention to sell off any of my collection, and if I must for monetary reasons, I have plenty of non-C&R guns worth a good deal more that I'd sell off first.

So any C&R holders here know the specifics on this? I couldn't find much information regarding these types of specifics on the googles.

Which one is scarier, a gun owner or a teenage driver?

Subject #1: A man in his mid-30's at the shooting range, firing off a few rounds from a .22 LR rifle, adjusting the scope to zero it in at 100 yards. Each time firing has ceased, someone says "Range is cold", he unloads his rifle, keeps the bolt back to ensure no round is chambered, engages the safety, and walks downrange to see how close his groups were on the paper target he was firing at.

Subject #2: A teenage driver, aged 16, behind the wheel of the new GMC Yukon her parents purchased for her. In one hand in a cell phone, that hand being used to text message friends. In the other is a Starbucks cup. And attention to the road is nowhere to be found. After "Message sent" appears on her phone, she looks up to see that she's halfway in the lane of oncoming traffic.

Thankfully, no one was coming.

So I must ask, what gives reason to people considering gun owners to be "dangerous" or "scary"? We hear in the news about shootings; most recently, the Tucson shootings, in which 6 people died.

But does it make national news when a drunk driver, barreling the wrong way down the interstate, slams into a van and kills 6 people? The death toll is the same, so why does the shooting make national headlines and create shockwaves, while the traffic incident seems to be shaken off with a passé acknowledgment that "something should be done", and whether it is or not, no one passionately follows it up, except for the families of the victims?

I'm presenting two opposite scenarios here. But I really am curious about this, why does one incident cause people to react with shock and fear, while the other seems to affect those uninvolved so very little?

I have a pair of sunglasses that I have no idea what brand they are or where they came from. I walked into a friend's house, he said "here, you left these here." I told him they weren't mine, and he responded with "well, they're yours now."

It's hard to tell the color from the picture, but they have a silver/gold-ish colored frame and a "mirror" style lens. Aviator-style:

http://i56.tinypic.com/2mpmxxw.jpg

I know I won't find this exact pair, but as I go through more pairs of sunglasses than boxers, I'm looking for something with the similar shape/style as this, that there may be a cheap copy of out there. I can spend a reasonable amount (maybe $40 or $50) but as I usually break or lose them frequently, I'm not looking for anything in the $200 range. But if there is such a brand name out there, I'd like to know anyway - maybe I can find a pair of knock-offs.

Whatever you can find similar to these would be helpful too. I'm not terribly picky, anything with that style/shape would work.

Thanks!

Well guys, I went to get some 9x19mm ammunition for my tapered pistol (from breech to muzzle) and fired it, and a round got stuck!

I used a series of toothpicks to hammer out the round, and then grabbed my calipers to check the muzzle diameter, and low and behold...it's only 7.7mm in diameter! No wonder the round got stuck! I suppose this means I should only fire 7.7x58 Arisaka out of my pistol?

Daniel, care to provide any insight?

...I peer into this section, I can see very few legitimately posed questions? Even the ones masked as questions end up being a "question and answer" within the question, with the title line being the question and the detail being the answer.

The rest seems to be just mudslinging and bickering between proponents/opponents of some party, person, or law; many serve no purpose but to stir up trouble and reactions.

Granted, I don't expect anyone on Y!A to answer questions seriously, 100% of the time. I mean, we all enjoy our fun. But here, it seems hard to get to the serious answer. If I asked, actually not knowing the answer, "What is Obama's policy on ______", I should be able to get (somewhere in the 50% range) serious answers.

So is there anyone here who seeks to provide actual information, rather than agitating anyone not supportive of their political opinion?

I know it's been asked before, but that was over a year ago. I just want to check to see if he's still dead.

My mommy wouldn't let me buy a real gun, and I finally begged her to get a super x-treme plastic airsoft glock. The plastic pellets are ineffective for self-defense against playground bullies, so I want to see if I can shoot +P+ loads out of my toy.

If not, will .357 Magnum or overpressure .38 SPL loads fire? I think the entire gun is made out of high strength polyethylene. It's stronger than titanium, according to the airsoft website.

No, you didn't mis-read. I've got a Remington-made (but Browning stamped) Auto 5 (12ga), which was made in St. Louis (factory where the Model 11 was produced). Now here's my dilemma...

The Model 11 and A-5, while pretty much the same, lack some part interchangeability. And in my case, this gun already has a shorter Remington barrel on it, which leads me to believe the gun will accept parts designed for the Model 11. Is this correct or not?

Specifically, I'm looking to add a tube magazine extension on the end. Would I need one for the A-5 or the Model 11?

Just picked up an American-made Browning Auto 5 (12 gauge), and tried to find some info on when it was made. However, here ( http://www.browning.com/customerservice/dategun/de... ) I can't seem to find anything that matches the serial number, there are no digits in front of the letter. The serial # is B72xx. Any help is appreciated

I'll give you the background first...

Where I work, the managers will call people on the weekends for stupid things that don't require a 1-hour drive to the plant to do something simple. But, they do it anyway. Sometimes, if you answer and aren't really needed, you'll get reeled in to coming into work. Other times, they'll call a couple times if you really are needed. I'm on salary and don't feel like making 5-hour drives from wherever I am to work on a Saturday morning at 7 a.m.

I have a cell phone with a regular contract (Verizon) and all the works on the plan, but I refuse to give my cell phone number to work, since I'd have to start ignoring numbers I didn't know (I also give my number out to people I meet when I'm out places, so I'd have to ignore those too, for fear of it being work calling).

They demanded phone numbers today at work, so rather than give my personal number away, I bought a Samsung Tracfone for $10 at Wal-Mart that comes with 10 minutes, good for 60 days. This will be a work-only phone, and all I really need is to call back the number (obviously blocked) from my personal cell phone.

So rather than drag the phone around with me all weekend, is there any way to forward the calls to my personal cell phone that could be identified by the number of the Tracfone? As in, someone would call the prepaid phone and the prepaid phone number would show up on my personal cell phone?