DAN THE AC MAN

ravens vs colts 1 / 6 / 13....field goal just before halftime looked to me like it hit the upright,just barely....my friend says no way???

my company owned work truck is a 2008 chevy 3500 with 6.0 liter engine...lately has been running very rough with reduced power and check engine light on....so far the company mechanics have replaced the throttle body,,oxy senser, and an ign coil for 1 cylinder...ran ok for a couple days,then same problem returned...they said it has to go back to the dealer to have the computer "reprogrammed"...our mechanics cant do that themselves because they dont have the necessary equipment for 2008 and newer vehicles.....any ideas out there?...90,000 miles....just curious,,not really my problem,,one nice thing about working for a company i guess....

my [adult] stepson's male boxer is a great dog..he is 8 yrs old which is getting old for a boxer..we want to stud him out soon to get a puppy before he is too old or dies....he is 100% boxer but is not show quality....i hear that people with show quality female boxers only want to breed them with show quality males for obvious reasons....where can we find someone with a female boxer that isnt necessarily show quality and wouldnt require the male be show quality?.we live in maryland..

i ran a service call in october 2008 for a no hot water complaint on a 2 or 3 day old rheem power vent natural gas water heater..model # 42VP4OFW....the problem turned out to be a large amount of "flakes" had come down off of the bottom of the tank and,or,the flueway..the flakes had actually bridged the gap between the flame sensing rod and the burner which causes the control module to lock out since it cant determine whether or not a flame is present when the gas valve is open.....i cleared the flakes,brushed the bottom of the tank,and blew compressed air up through the flueway with the power vent blower on and pressure switch disconnected....i called rheem tech support,they had no explanation but requested the homeowner mail them some of the flakes for them to analyze...the homeowner mailed the flakes so that the rheem rep had to sign for the package... the rep never got back to the homeowner even though the homeowner called several times,left messages,etc...the water heater has been fine since then,no trouble...wondering if anyone out there has run into a similar problem on a new water heater...did rheem have a problem with many of these water heaters or was this isolated?..was the factory rep too lazy to get back to homeowner,,or did he not want to divulge the problem if he even knows what it is..what caused the [large] flakes in a brand new tank?...thanks in advance for your answers...........dan

what actually takes place on the day of a foreclosure? is it similar to an eviction where they physically remove the people and their belongings from the home?...if no one is home at the time,are they allowed back in to retrieve some or all of their belongings? if no one is home are the contents of the home now legally owned by the bank? if someone is home how much can they carry out with them?...i'm asking for the case in the state of maryland....i've heard conflicting information.......thanks......dan

i ran into a very old home with a hot water boiler for heat...boiler about 20 yrs old...house much older..some of the radiaters have a bleed port who's square bleed screw head is smaller than usual...no one knows of a key that will fit this size....one explanation someone gave was that the radiater bleed port may have had knobs attached to the bleed ports years ago that eventually broke off and left the fitting that a regular rad key wont fit...is there a smaller key available? or will a plumber have to replaced the bleed ports with standard size ports??..........dan

i have a customer with a 20 yr old hot water boiler,,360k btu....house is much older with very old radiaters...had a circulater problem that caused major water leak from boiler system...problem is fixed but my standard size radiater key is too large for the square shaft that is inside the bleeder fittings...no one seems to have heard of this except one explanation i got was that possibly the radiaters may have had knobs that were attached to these small square shafts..the knobs eventually broke off,leaving these odd size shafts that there is no key for???...do they make 4-point sockets, one of which might fit...or does a plumber need to replace the entire bleeder port on the radiaters that have this issue?................dan

...i have a lone gfi outlet in the garage that has no power to the wires themselves...it was fine until my wife accidently cut the extension cord..[ ext cord was plugged into the outlet that is now dead ] .what is strange is that i seemed to have lost the hot and the neutral..again,i'm taking readings at the wires where they screw to the sides of the outlet,not at the female outlet slots...the garage and family room are on the same breaker..breaker was not tripped and the rest of the garage [ garage door opener that is plugged into a ceiling outlet and 2 lights ] as well as family room are ok...there is a double switch box a few feet from the dead outlet..the 2 switches control lights only...i thought maybe the outlet got its power from that box but all is ok inside the box...i even took alligater clip jumper wires and manually jumped the known good neutral in the switch box to the dead outlet neutral,,,no 120v to the dead outlet hot wire.....then i jumped the known good hot wire at the switch box to the dead outlet hot wire connection...no 120volts from hot to neutral at the dead outlet but i did get 120 volts from hot to the bare ground wire.....with power off i took a continuity reading from the neutral at the dead outlet to the known good neutral at the switch box and had no continuity,,,infinite ohm reading....arent all neutrals in the house connected at the neutral bar??....so i seemed to have lost both hot and neutral at the dead gfi outlet.....are outlets only bugged off of other outlets and not from switch boxes??....other gfi's in house are ok..where should i check next?...is it likely the dead outlet gets power from wires at the ceiling outlet or the front porch outlet??...he front porch outlet is also dead,,not a gfi..would power to the dead gfi outlet come from another gfi outlet in the house??...any help is appreciated.........dan

house is 9 yrs old...all 3 second fl windows in back of house leaked water bad during a thunderstorm a few weeks ago..leak is through the window tracks and or bottom where it rests when you close it..cheap builders grade windows,possibly not the best installation also.[we are not the original owners] we are having all 8 windows in back of house replaced [ 1st and 2nd floor ] but ran into problems..i'm not construction oriented so forgive me if i dont word this perfectly---the replacement windows were measured and made already by a reputable company..they came out to replace the windows but found that what they thought was just the stationary part of the old windows that surrounds the parts that move up and down [glass and its frame] was actually part of the wood frame that supports the windows...therefore the new windows wont fit in the opening unless the old windows are removed along with the wooden frame...the company rescheduled for tomorrow..their plan as far as i can tell is to remove the windows and the wood frames and install new wood flush to the window opening so the new windows will fit...they said this situation is unusual and their course of action is appropriate...my wife is very concerned because friends of ours who have constuction experience are saying that the wood frames should stay and the replacement windows need to be remeasured and made smaller....i dont know enough about construction to question the company but dont want an inferior job done just to keep them from having to re-order all of the windows.... -----this might help also--the company said our windows are "hybrid" in that the frames are wood and vinyl,so when they went to tear out the stationary vinyl part the wood behind it that its attached to comes with it...they plan to remove the "window jams" and make new "sub frames" .....any opinions??..

need some windows replaced in our house...deciding between "thompson creek" and "bge home".. thompson creek makes their own windows...bge home uses "revere" brand windows,berkshire model... prices not finalized yet but thompson creek will probably be around $75-100 per window more..its hard to compare the two because thompson creek makes there own...i've heard mostly good things about thompson creek except that they are expensive...bge home is expensive too but not as bad..prefer going with larger companies for the security of knowing they will be there if something isnt right,etc...both of these companies serve the maryland area.

bought a house that already had a nice deck but i dont like the look of the white pvc railing around the perimeter of the deck...it also blocks the view somewhat....doing a little research,looks like the main 2 options for a better view are glass panels and cables...advantages and disadvantages of either??...pricing?...professional vs friends [ skilled ] to install??....

i would like to mount my rooftop cargo box off center to the passemger side to make it easier to reach...does having the cargo box off center adversely affect the handling??

purchased a new 2010 subaru forester [premium x ] 2 weeks ago...washed it for the 1st time yesterday..after drying it i noticed that the paint isnt smooth to the touch in some areas,,especially on the right rear door...feels gritty,almost like fine grit sandpaper,but not that bad...the plastic trim pieces on the door window frames feel the same way on the right side...plastic trim feels smooth on the left side of car...paint feels smooth in some other areas,,other areas in-between,not really smooth,but not too gritty...is this a factory defect in the paint?,some type of overspray?...could it be leftover glue from the white plastic protective film they ship the cars with?..i'm not sure how much of the car had the protective film,never really payed much attention to it.....i hope the car wasnt damaged and repaired before i bought it...it did have 90 miles on it,more miles than i like but it was the color [ spark silver ] we wanted and had the options we wanted....i dont want to just walk in and ask the dealer,i figure they will minimize the problem regardless of the cause....i can live with the paint not feeling smooth as long as it wont fade,or otherwise look bad as it ages...any opinions??

Purchased a new 2010 subaru forester premium x about 2 weeks ago..washed it for the 1st time yesterday..after drying it i noticed that in some areas the paint [ "spark silver" ] isnt smooth to the touch..it actually feels gritty,almost like fine grit sandpaper,but not that bad...its especially noticable on the right rear door...also feels the same on the plastic trim pieces on the window frames above the right front and right rear doors....the paint looks good,shiny,etc...is this a factory defect in the paint,,some type of overspray?...or could it be glue from the white plastic protective film they ship the cars with?..not sure if that film comes on the doors or not,never paid it much attention...i would hope the vehicle wasnt damaged somehow and repaired before i bought it...it had 90 miles on it,which is more than i like for a new car but this car had the color and options we wanted... other areas of the car are smooth to the touch,,,,other areas in-between...am i being too picky?...dont want to just walk in and ask the dealer,,i'm sure they will just minimize the problem,especially since i dont know anything about car paint,,but i'm pretty sure it shouldnt feel gritty..any opinions??

here is the scenario.... couple [A] buys a house for $250,000 but they couldnt afford that much so another couple-B [ family ] contributed toward the purchase,but will not live there....each couple contributed $125,000.. the title to the home lists each couple as owning 50% of the home..couple-A took out a home equity loan on their previous house + savings to come up with their $125,000... there previous house sold about 2 months later and the home equity loan was paid off at that time for the previous house that they occupied for several years.....now tax time is here and there is a question as to whether couple A qualifies for the homebuyers tax credit...there tax preparer says they do because they occupy the new house and the old house that they lived in for several years sold shortly after buying the new house,,so that there is no question about there actually occupying the new house..............the question is this.....does couple A qualify fully for the homebuyers tax credit [ not 1st time credit of $8000,,just the regular credit of $6500 ] ?? or do they only qualify for 1/2 of that credit since they only own 1/2 of the new house??..or do they NOT qualify because of only owning 1/2 of the house??..the other question is this.....IF couple A does qualify fully for the $6500 tax credit,,should couple A give 1/2 of that to couple B ??...couple B thinks they should get 1/2 of couple A's $6500 tax refund [ if it goes through],,,couple A isnt sure what the right thing to do is.....obviously couple B doesnt qualify for a tax credit on there own taxes because they will continue to live at their own house,,they will not be occupying the new house at all.......couple A likely will buy out couple B's 1/2 of the new house in a few years for 1/2 of the appraised value at that time....couple B doesnt claim any legal right to the money,,they just think they should be given 1/2 of the $6500 because they purchased 1/2 of the new house that couple A could not otherwise have afforded...any opinions???

just bought a 2010 forester 2.5x premium automatic....great car for the price but a little slow by my standards. wife is primary driver and she didnt want the turbo model due to extra cost,reduced milage,and premium gas requirement..i've also read that there are reliability issues with turbo foresters,and i didnt like the "boy racer" hood scoop..... are there any factory approved performance upgrades for the non-turbo foresters?..20-30 hp would be fine,,not looking to race it,,just want a little more acceleration,esp for merging onto hwy....

i read somewhere that the new forester has a cheaper awd system than it used to.. comparing auto trans models to auto trans models only....is that true?.. any real world differences?... is the awd system in the 6cyl 5 speed auto outback any better?..is the outback worth 2-3 thousand more?..any opinions?

checked out subarus at dealer yesterday..wife and i liked the forester best,,is about 2k cheaper than comparably equipped outback....i'm tempted to get the turbo model...wife just wants non-turbo...wife is the main driver so i'm leaning toward non-turbo..test drove one,,its nice but doesnt have the power i'm used to,although i admit you really dont need it...is the fuel milage really only 2mpg less with turbo as sticker says?..i've heard in the real world the difference is larger,even if you drive sensibly...premium fuel requirement also a factor....also,is the turbo model likely to need more frequent / expensive repairs down the road?..if so,likely i would get the ext.warrenty,,but that widens the price diff from about 2k [ turbo vs non-turbo],,to about 4k....any opinions??

will be buying a car soon,,pretty much settled on subaru for standard awd and safety scores.. i'm deciding between a forester turbo or outback 6 cylinder...seems like the forester is cheaper when comparably equipped but i read a lot of complaints on-line about foresters with excessive rattles and other issues..is this just a vocal minority or is the forester not built as well as an outback?? the 2010 outcack is a 1st year redesign which makes me nervous....any opinions??

will be buying a car soon,,pretty much settled on subaru for the standard awd and safety scores.. if i buy the forester it will be the turbo model,,,if the outback,the 6 cylinder...seem like the forester is cheaper when comparably equipped...however,i read online complaints about excessive rattling and other problems with the forester..is this just a vocal minority or is the forester not built as well as the legacy / outback?...the 2010 outback is a 1st year redesign which makes me nervous,its also a little strange looking....any opinions out there??