josh l

did a doughnut in the street and the check engine light came on. ever since the fuel economy isn't like it should be.cleaned the MAF and the TPS checks out at .96 volts.any suggestions? also the car has a smog pump delete.

84 mustang 5.0 302 bored over to a 306. ran hard and noticed a ticking. pulled the valve cover and the spring on #3 is up.luckily the valve is still in the place. so i broke the retainer and clip spring is still good. i havent pulled the head off yet cause im thinking if all i broke was the retainer then i should be able to just get those few pieces that broke and put it all back together.it doesnt have adjustable rockers,they just bolt on. does this sound ok with yall? just replacing the broken stuff and not pulling the head?

Also,

if anybody here knows the torque specs for the heads,rocker arms,and intake it would be greatly appreciated.

thank you all

how to divide 21 and 11/16" by 2?

divde 21 11/16" (of an inch) by 2. like if you pulled a tape measure on a piece of wood and it was 21 11/16",how would you divide it by 2? please show a step by step process if possible

josh l

Your Question

how to divide 21 and 11/16" by 2?

divde 21 11/16" (of an inch) by 2. like if you pulled a tape measure on a piece of wood and it was 21 11/16",how would you divide it by 2? please show a step by step process if possible

divde 21 11/16" (of an inch) by 2. like if you pulled a tape measure on a piece of wood and it was 21 11/16",how would you divide it by 2? please show a step by step process if possible

I have the 7.3 powerstroke diesel. the egt gauge stays at about 1100-1200 most all day while going down the road but at idle it always seems to just jump all of a sudden all the way around past 20 and back to 0 almost, but as soon as i get back on the gas it goes back to where it should be. is something wrong with the truck,thermocoupler,or gauge

i need two transistors. i bought a pack of four once online a while back when repairing an amplifier but i dont remember where.now im repairing another one i found in the trash and need a good site

i have a pitbull pup she's only about 4months old and is getting really big already,but anyway i notice when she gets excited(everytime i go near her house) she starts snorting and wheezing kinda like a pug does cause of their breathing.it kinda sounds like she's got a lung full of mucus or something. any suggestions?

94 suzuki dr125. just installed the new clutch plates. this isnt rocket science for its not hard to take out 5 bolts to the clutch springs,take hub cover off,and replace plates in proper order.then after plates are in,installing new release bearing and torquing clutch spring bolts to proper specs.after this i felt the clutch lever and it was better,then i went to adjust the tensioner as you should always do when installing a new clutch,by loosening the lock nut and turning the screw in til i felt resistance,then backed it out slightly an tightened the lock nut,now the clutch has no tension at all and the lever wont spring back forward.it was fine til i messed with the tensioner but it had to be done,i even seen front cover kick out an loosen the plates up wen i pulled the clutch in,but since i messed w/ the tensioner its gone.any suggestions?i know i did the installment right

i have the 94 suzuki dr125se, yesterday while riding i noticed when i roll off the throttle at mid-hi rpm range the engine makes a whining/slight grinding(like dirt in a bearing) noise. it does this everytime i get on the gas hard an then let go it makes the noise.now the clutch does slip a bit if im sittin on the seat while taking off(which is why i take off standin up and then sit down) but when the whining noise happens im not even messing w/ the clutch jus the throttle. so the whining noise from rolling off the throttle,do you think its the clutch? or do you think there may be a bad bearing in the bottom end?

i have a 94 suzuki dr125se. today while riding(& i ride hard) i noticed that when i roll off the throttle i could hear a wining/grinding noise coming from the engine.i wasn even messin with the clutch at the time i was jus ridin at full throttle and rolled off the gas an it made this sound,it done it each time i got back on the gas and let off.NOW FOR THE CLUTCH COVER ive removed all bolts from cover and disconnected the clutch cable. ive been tapping on it w/ a mallet but no luck, i tried to pry on it a bit but nothing happens,it doesnt even budge. do any of you think i am missing a step here or jus keep tappin away

jus as the question states. im looking at a 5.0 HO engine and i was wondering if mayb he jus got the intake off of a HO engine and put it on this 302 or is this even possible? thx for the input.and i know i can check the firing order but i jus wanna kno quickly w/o takin valve covers off an turnin the engine over thru all 8.it has the 5.0 HO stamped on the manifold

main jet size as of now is 112.5 RD. i need 1 size smaller which is 110. they make a few types of 110 jets from hex to small round, i kno i dont need a hex type. RD is printed under 112.5 which sounds like round but the images for the round jet doesnt look like mine. the one that looks most similar is the large round jet, so do i go w/ this one. or jus get regular round.

here's where im looking at buyin from and has pics of the different types http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-Main-Jet-Application-...

we've come the the conclusion my buddy's engine is running rich,i told him we need to just drop the needle a bit or buy a smaller main jet(fuel). he believes we can jus leave da carb alone an pull da filter out the airbox an get more air goin in w/ that gas, idc what he does,if he wants 2 run it w/o a filter an ruin his engine so be it,he's scared messin w/ the carbs adjustments will mess something up terribly, so yall get on here and suggest and im gonna show it to him what the majority of yall think. post w/ what u think we need to do.remember its runnin rich(2 much fuel and/or not enuf air) so would you go w/ a smaller main jet(fuel), a bigger main air jet(to allow more air in),drop the needle, or maybe go ahead an do a lil of both types of jets, i dont believe the pilot jet is a problem here but the pilot air jet could also need tweaking if we dont mess w/ the main air jet,so wud u go w/ less fuel or turn a air screw out an allow more air in or both?.... id hate 2 see him mess up a good runnin but slo engine cause he did away w/ his air filter.

i have a 94 suzuki dr125.ive jus found out the manual isnt right as it states the valve clearance needs to be the same for intake & exhaust.but when both are set the same the exhausts valve clearance closes up.which isnt supposed to happen. so today instead of setting both clearances to .08, i set the intake to .08 and the exhaust to .13. now heres where it gets important. i started the bike up and it started very quickly(as ive been waitin 2 wks on an offset wrench to set the valves) but as i was slappin the left side fender on(it jus pops on into lil rubber boots) and i got on the bike the exhaust was very hot to my leg( it hadn been started up even 15 secs yet) i tapped the exhaust header w/ my finger and it was very hot....any suggestions on what might be going on?? do you think i set the exhaust valve incorrectly?? the fuel mixture is fine,lean wud cause the engine to run hot and my bike doesnt run lean as i am an excellent carb plumber and the spark plug says so. so any help as to what may be going on wud be appreciated,also the rocker arms hittin the valves seemed a bit louder than it normally is but i figure the valve springs are gettin weak.

i have a 94 suzuki dr125. i bought a manual specifically for the electronics but got curious the other day and decided to see if the valve clearances i been using before i got the book were the same w/ the clearances stated in the book. the clearances i used to use worked ok and were "intake-.08mm and exhaust-.13mm....now the book says between .08-.13mm but it also says the exhaust needs to be the same as the intake. i used to set the exhaust wider than the intake an it ran fine.so the other day i decided i wud set them both the same like the manually says to do i set them both for .08mm. i went for a ride shortly after,came back,checked them again, and the exhaust valve was closed up tight. so what im asking is do you think i need to ignore the manual and go back to a bigger exhaust valve setting like .08 and .13 or set them both the same but at a bigger clearance because riding w/ them both at .08 causes the exhaust valve to close. is my rocker arm threads bout gone? need new parts?

im looking for the spark arrester on my bike.never seen one before and dont know what im looking for. where is it located on your bike? i know our bikes may be different models but component locations is always pretty similar EX. carb in between air cleaner an motor,stators are on the left side and clutch covers are on the right on prettty much all bikes,so i would think where ever the arrester is on yours it'd have to be close to the same place on my bike. the manual stats clean it every 2500miles and to remove the drain bolt,start the engine and rev it to blow out accumulated carbon particles,then stop the engine and install drain bolt securely. where is the drain bolt only drain bolts i know of is the two on the bottom of the crankcase for fluids.thx for the help

1994 suzuki dr125 no spark.ive tested all electronics and the regulator is the only thing that doesnt test right.some ppl say the regulator contorls spark some ppl say it doesnt. i dont believe so either,i believe the regulator only controls voltage for lights,blinkers,an horn. reason being is cause i can start and ride my bike w/o the battery on there(wen it was runnin).the regulator hooks to the battery and stator not to the cdi. cdi box makes the spark and the only thing runnin input to the cdi is the stator. the regulator doesnt hook to the cdi it goes from stator to battery and the cdi doesnt run off the battery. go ahead and convince me the regulator has something to do w/ spark.

i have a suzuki dr125se in need of a new coil. im not looking for more performance its just the amr monster coil is cheaper and an aftermarket part.some aftermarket parts are just as good if not better but wen dealing w/ electronics which way wud u go, aftermarket or OEM? anyone ever tried the AMR coil? did it run ok? how was the installation? i dont wanna buy junk so im here askin

im looking for a service manual for my bike lookin for specs. the only reason i need it is for the electronics the rest of the manual doesnt concern me at all. which publisher would ya'll recommend for this i know theres a few out there and am currently looking at a jebel bcuz the price.