Skipper

I have an 87 4.0 in a 97 JGC, ran beautiful for a week or so, now, when I come to a stop, I start getting a vibration from the front engine, to the rear axle, and the idle dips down to 500-400 RPM, the rear differential was a little low on fluid, so I topped it off, and nothing has changed. I am clueless where to look next. I put a HV oil pump in, when I replaced the engine, last time I had the oil pan off, and the oil pressure is always steady at 40lbs, like I said, I am clueless where to look next. Maybe its a rear brake problem? I don't know, any info you could share, the better, thank you.

I have a 97 Jeep grand cherokee, and I have eliminated the cat converter, the check engine light comes on, because the exhaust sensor is not connected, any answers are greatly appreciated, thank you!

Would not installing the transfer case to the transmission, possibly shut off the remote control unit also? Causing a no crank issue?

I have almost successfully matched up an 87 jeep 4.0 engine, in a 97 jeep, accept, the transmission the 87 used, was the AX4, and the transmission output shaft is about an inch shorter than the 97 AX15, can I cut the shaft to fit? Please tell me someone has done this before. So far, everything else has fit on this 4.0, hopefully, I don't have to get an 87 AX4, or 5. Thank you for your answers.

Can I put my 97 alternator, and my 97 intake/exhaust on this, they line-up perfectly...also, my distributor from my 97 fits perfectly, would the computer tell the difference?

I bought a brand new battery, tested the alternator(by removing the positive terminal on the battery, while the engine is running), tested for parasitic draw, nothing, so my question is, would there be a problem in the voltage regulator side of the PCM? Or, where would I check next? The truck runs great, when started, and drives around fine, but when I leave it overnight, the battery is dead in the morning. Thank you!

I'm thinking yeah. I rebuilt my 4.0 jeep engine, and I could not figure out why, when I start my truck, it gives good oil pressure at first, then when it warms up, the oil pressure drops to -0-. I was re-tightening my connecting rod bolts, to make sure they were all torqued the right ft.lbs. when I discovered one of the connecting rod bolts were stripped, not giving the proper torque. Would this explain the -0- oil pressure?

I have a jeep 4.0. I re-built the engine, and in the process, I replaced the oil pump, with a high volume one. I need to know if this effects the clearance of the sump, and if I need to modify the oil pan. When I start the engine, it has good oil pressure, but after it reaches operating temperature, the oil pressure drops to -0-. I have measured all of the bearing clearances, and they are all at .002. What next? I have a brand new oil pressure regulator.

I've re-built my 4.0, and I think I put the thrust bearing in the wrong spot on the crank. I was not paying attention when I re-built it, so I did not remember where the thrust bearing location was.

When rebuilding it, I tried to place the thrust bearing in the center location(for balance), but it plugged the oil gallery holes, allowing no oil to flow through. So I placed the thrust bearing in the #5 main, it starts and runs, with no noise, but I do not have proper oil pressure, so I think it was supposed to go in the middle of the crank. All of the measurements are correct. I have 40lbs at start up, and once it warms up, it drops to -0-.

Also, when at 2,000RPM, it gives a good oil pressure reading, but at idle it drops to -0-. The oil pressure gauge is working fine. Also, would I have to pull the engine to re-arrange the bearings?

When I rebuilt it, I could not remember where the thrust bearing was located, but the oil holes would only line up with the thrust bearing on either the 3rd, or 5th connecting rod(I put it in the third). I am getting no noise when I get it started, it will run, and have pressure, till it gets warmed up, then drops to -0-. I had the block cleaned and bored, I have good piston compression. There was antifreeze in the oil, cause the steel head gasket that came with the kit blew, causing antifreeze to leak into the oil, I replaced the head gasket with a composite, and now no problems there. Next, I will drop the oil pan, and re-check all of the clearances.

I never replaced the old push-rods and rocker arms. I rebuilt a Jeep 4.0 and when it starts, the oil pressure only goes up when I accelerate. I put a high volume oil pump in it, and all of the bottom end is 80lbs torque like it should be, would the low oil pressure be explained from me not replacing the push-rods and the rocker arms?

I rebuilt my 4.0 jeep engine, and I am having a problem with my oil pressure, I have replaced the oil pressure sending unit, replaced oil pump with a High Volume pump, all of the torques are correct. Before I dropped the engine back in, I sprayed WD-40(big mistake!!) in the interior of the engine electrical connecting units, frying my crankshaft sensor. I think the oil pressure gauge is at fault. It starts up nice and smooth, but the gauge reads -0-, and I do not want to risk driving it, for it might ruin, whats left of my engine..

Its a 98 jeep 4.0 engine, and I just did a tune-up on it, put new spark plug wires, changed the oil, switched the old cap and rotor out, now when I drive it, It jumps around a little bit, like a studder, then when I put it into drive, it acts like its going to die, but hasn't yet, I had a DTC of cylider 2 not firing right, I ttok out spark plug #2, and there was a piece of grit on top of the terminal, I cleaned it, and now I don't get a Trouble code, but still runs rough. I rechecked all of the gaps, good, I wonder if the spark plug wires I got were defective?

When I rebuilt it, I could not remember where the thrust bearing was located, but the oil holes would only line up with the thrust bearing on either the 3rd, or 5th connecting rod(I put it in the third). I am getting no noise when I get it started, it will run, and have pressure, till it gets warmed up, then drops to -0-. I had the block cleaned and bored, I have good piston compression. There was antifreeze in the oil, cause the steel head gasket that came with the kit blew, causing antifreeze to leak into the oil, I replaced the head gasket with a composite, and now no problems there. Next, I will drop the oil pan, and re-check all of the clearances.

I recently rebuilt the 4.0, brand new oil pump, head gasket, oil pressure sending unit. new crank bearings, crank was ground down .020 rod and main caps brand new. New bearings everywhere. Checked the piston ring pressure, and getting 150psi on each cylinder. What could it be, faulty oil pump?

I recently rebuilt the 4.0, brand new oil pump, head gasket, oil pressure sending unit. Checked the piston ring pressure, and getting 150psi on each cylinder. What could it be, faulty oil pump?