paul67337

A 23 horse engine I put in a 1980 Deere skid steer 3 years ago. It's been starting fine for the last 3 years. It started this morning. I tried to start it 30 minutes later and it won't crank over. No click, no nothing. Battery is good. There is good voltage at the starter. Could it be the 39 year old ignition switch, something in the wiring, or something with the starter on the engine?

It's in a cellar. The sump pump didn't work and had about a foot of water in there. I removed the water. Tried to light the pilot but it wouldn't light. Removed the burner, pilot and thermocouple assembly. Had to clean out the tiny hole of the pilot orifice. I went ahead and sanded the thermocouple and tested it on my stove. Showed 24 volts. Pilot lit, but won't stay on. Replaced the thermocouple but the pilot won't stay lit. Could it be the gas valve/thermostat?

There is gas pressure at the gas inlet. I checked the thermal fuse and it had continuity. I checked the 2 thermostats and they were good. I replaced the 2 gas solenoids, then started it. The drum turns, and I can see the glow from the ignitor. But no gas comes out to ignite. I checked the radiant flame sensor at room temperature, it had continuity.

What could be the problem? I have a spare dryer that I took the solenoids from. Should I swap the flame sensor or the entire gas valve assembly?

The town I live in is being considered for a Tyson chicken processing facility. $320 million is the cost. Another city is in the running, and a farmer wrote "NO TYSON" in his pasture with plowed earth. I would like to do something similar, but I want Tyson here. I have a 10 acres, a tractor, and a plow. I plan on putting the stock symbol for Tyson in a pasture, TSN.

Question: Should I put more, like + TSN or TSN and a checkmark? It can be difficult to make letters like O and Y with a plow, so I'm keeping it simple.

The pilot will light and stay lit with the knob in the "pilot" position. When I turn the knob to the heat control, the pilot goes out. Do I just need to clean the thermocouple?

Bought a shotgun in 1997 for $1200. In 2010 it was stolen along with other possessions. I bought all new replacements for what was stolen. I paid $5000. Insurance paid me $4000. My deductible was $1000. Today the sheriffs department called me and said someone tried to cross into the Canada border with the gun. Authorities confiscated the gun. They are returning it to me. They said I need to contact my insurance company and tell them what happened. I did.

What can I expect from the insurance company?

This is on a 1975 Deere diesel tractor. Engine wont turn over when the key is in the start position. I was able to start it by jumping the two contacts on the starter with the key in the run position. I figure bad solenoid. Replaced the starter/solenoid. Still won't crank. I figure the ignition switch is bad. There is no continuity between the battery terminal and the start terminal when the key is in the start position. Bad switch.

I checked the continuity between the solenoid wire and the wire that connects to the start prong on the ignition switch. No circuit. The solenoid wire shows a circuit between the solenoid and the negative cable. Is this the problem? The wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid is shorted? Replace the wire between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid, should I try that next?

This is not a box type element. This is the circular style element on the back of the drum. I bought a new element and stretched the inner and outer coil to the proper length. I bent back the locking tabs on the connectors and proceeded to feed the coil through the insulators. The insulators are "O" shaped. The diameter of the coil is greater than the diameter on the insulator. What should I do next?

I replaced the control switch and wired it the same way, the heating element still heats up. The dryer came from a garage sale. The heating element still heats up when it's plugged in. Is it possible that it was wired wrong when I bought it?

About 35 days ago I received 2 letters. One from the Pennsylvania toll booth commission and one from the New York toll booth commission. The license plate on my vehicle ran through the booth. They had a picture of the license plate. I was able to view, download and print the picture. The license plate on the vehicle that ran the booth was a commercial apportioned vehicle, it says it on the picture of the plate. My vehicle is a 1969 F250 dumptruck with antique plates. The plate numbers are the same, but they are two different kinds of plates. I live in Kansas.

I sent both commissions pictures of my plate and the picture of the offending plate and explained that they had the wrong plate. Today I received two more letters in the mail from the toll booth commissions asking for the toll plus a late fee.

What would you do next?

When the key is turned to the start position, nothing happens. It doesn't turn over. I had to run a jumper cable from the + terminal to the stud on the starter to crank it.

Replaced the ignition switch. Same problem.

Replaced the starter solenoid. It solved the problem several years ago, but it still doesn't crank. Same problem.

What should I check next?

I hit the start button and can hear the starter spin, but it's not turning the engine over. It's like the little gear on the starter is not engaging the flywheel.

What should I do?

The old and probably original coil has two leads for wires. One is marked "battery" and the other is marked "distributor". The wire marked distributor goes to the distributor.

The new coil is marked "positive" and "negative". Do I put the distributor wire on the "negative" or the "positive" post of the new coil?

Fridge is a Tappan top freezer refridgerator. It was keeping things cool, not cold. I removed the inside panels of the freezer and plugged it in. The coils became cool then cold within a minute. The compressor was running. The air circulation fan wasn't spinning. I could spin it freely by hand. I hooked up a multimeter to the two wires going to the motor. It showed about 3 volts a.c. I checked some other wires and they showed 115 volts. What should I check/replace next?

This is on a small Mitsubishi dozer. A 4 cylinder 45 horse engine. I have to turn the key about half a dozen times between "Run" and "Off" before the engine stops. Now I can't even get it to stop. Have to put it under a load at low idle to get it to stall.

Should I be checking the ignition switch or somewhere around the injector pump, and what should I look for?

These are not the temporary plates you get when you buy a vehicle, but the kind of plate that goes on a car when you test drive it. There is a shady person that lives down the street and they have dealer plates on their car. The car also has plastic sheeting for a rear window, and one of the rear side windows is missing. They've been driving with dealer plates for several months.

95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It sat unused for about 2 years because of some drivetrain problems. I drove it to a shop a month ago and they fixed it. After I picked it up, it smoked the entire drive home. It didn't smoke when I drove it to the shop. It's white smoke. If I let it idle on my driveway, it will deposit a layer of gray oil on the driveway surface. The grey smoke smells strongly of gasoline when I start it cold.

Could an exhaust valve be stuck in the open position? What else could be the problem? Crankcase oil does not look milky, antifreeze looks clear and green.

My washer and gas dryer plug into the outlet. There is no current at the outlet according to my alternating current detector. Nothing major or minor has happened since this morning, no earthquakes/fires/tornadoes. Why would current all of a sudden stop to an outlet? I've checked all GFCI's and they are working. No breakers are tripped.